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  #16  
Old 08-21-2012, 11:35 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
I don't have much to add to what has been said. I have had at least one of all the cars listed, and liked them all. The cars with iron head engines are the best in my opinion, and will last many years if taken care of. I had a 1995 E300, and it was one of my favorite cars. It will get about 30 MPG, and still has plenty of power for being N/A. It also has more creature comforts. However, you can't beat an 80's 240D with a manual trans. They are simple, basic, easy to work on and very reliable if maintained properly. Don't let a non-working A/C system keep you from buying a car. You will find that most (if not all) the Benz's with a GM R4 compressor will have A/C issues. I don't think I have ever bought one with working A/C (I have had 20+). Check out the many A/C threads here for repair of your system.

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  #17  
Old 08-21-2012, 12:05 PM
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Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Yep....I advise people, if they don't do their own work, to budget 20 cents per mile for maintenance and repairs....and hope it doesn't cost quite that much.
According to my parts order history spreadsheet.. I've spend $675/year over the past 4 years in parts for my 190E.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2012, 12:13 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
By shertex's estimate, you drive the 190E less than a thousand miles a year

Sixto
87 300D
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2012, 12:20 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
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Posts: 5,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
By shertex's estimate, you drive the 190E less than a thousand miles a year

Sixto
87 300D
Until recently..

Actually, 207k in 2008, 230k today. so 23k over 4 years, ~5k/year.

Now I put on 650/week
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2012, 12:23 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
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If you put away 20 cents a mile like shertex suggests, you'd have enough over 23K miles to cover the $650 your 190E needed in parts and buy the SDL shertex has for sale! See how his mind works?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #21  
Old 08-21-2012, 12:41 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 3,941
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Don't let a non-working A/C system keep you from buying a car. You will find that most (if not all) the Benz's with a GM R4 compressor will have A/C issues. I don't think I have ever bought one with working A/C (I have had 20+). Check out the many A/C threads here for repair of your system.
My 240D had flaky ac when I got it. My main seal on the R4 gave out. New R4, TXV and Dryer, and help from Vstech, and my ac works great even in the high nineties temp and humidity. If you don't have a friend that's an ac tech, then get a shop to evac the system, take it home and do all the parts swapping and line flushing, then (immediately) take it back to the shop and have them do a nitrogen pressure test, vacuum, and recharge with R12.

Or go online, study and pass the online test and get your 609, pick up good quality second hand equipment and New Old Stock R12 online (CL is a good source) and do the ac work yourself. Don't be lured by alt refrigerants, your system is designed for R12 and it will work great if you prepare everything right.

With a new compressor, flushed system, and clean condenser you will have no problem even in AZ running R12. Your temps are higher than here but your humidity is way lower. The humidity is what the system really has to fight, the system works harder cooling in SC with typical 85 degrees and 90 percent humidity than the 115 degrees and 10 percent humidity you have out there.

Once the car cools down (btw I have a light ivory car and tinted windows and use a windshield sun shade every time I park) I have to turn the fan speed down and the thermostat warmer, otherwise it gets too cold, even when it is stinking hot outside.
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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #22  
Old 08-23-2012, 10:19 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 46
finally a car to consider? what do you guys think??

Ok, found a car and might buy it...

Here is the details: 75 240D manual. The owner says it has a diff from a 300D for better highway cruising. It is a 4 speed manual. He also installed a turbo diesel starter(better starting power was his reasoning).

Also has machined stainless steel inserts to allow 190D late model glow plugs which burn hotter than stock?

Has the european headlights and double trouble bumpers.

Pretty much all stock, has a majestic steering wheel and the interior is in good shape, just the armrests need attention, foam showing. It is white with the matching white wheels, hubcaps. Body is in good shape, plus its white so it hides stuff. Has one dent that could most likely be popped out by painless dent removal on a passenger door.

AC is working! And he noted no leaks from the engine, tranny, etc.

What do you guys think its worth? I don't want to overpay for it and is it a mercedes worth keeping? I am looking for a reliable daily driver to work. I drive about 13 miles one way, so 26 miles on city streets with max speed being 45 mph.

Thanks for any info on this car....
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  #23  
Old 08-23-2012, 10:45 PM
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Location: West Quebec
Posts: 4,025
You need to provide pictures for an accurate reply.

How much is the vendor asking?
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #24  
Old 08-23-2012, 10:52 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Location: Eastern TN
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Euro headlights really make the 115. What's a majestic steering wheel?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #25  
Old 08-23-2012, 11:34 PM
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Posts: 46
here is a picture

Here is a picture of the car.

The steering wheel is white from an older car.
Attached Thumbnails
FIRST diesel mercedes HELP me buy one please-merc1.jpg  
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  #26  
Old 08-24-2012, 12:46 AM
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Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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The car you are looking at achieved 0 to 60 mph (when brand new) of 25 seconds.
W114-W115-240D-Getriebe/en
Now that the owner has swapped the diff, your acceleration will be less. When new, its top speed was 86 mph. With the swapped diff, your top speed will be less.

Yes, it absolutely is a car capable of being a daily driver for you. It CAN be reliable, but there is no way for us to tell you that this particular car is reliable. If all the subframe bushings and engine mounts have been replaced and the drivetrain is healthy, it is a $3000 car. If it has a new engine or transmission, it could be a $4000 car. But most likely, it will need some work and I think I see some rust in the photo. So I wouldn't pay more than $2500.
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  #27  
Old 08-24-2012, 10:29 AM
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Posts: 46
300d diff

So with the 300D diff it will take even longer to get to 60? So it will be a terrible city car right? If it takes me 30 seconds to get to 40 MPH it sounds like that will get old quick?

Also the 300D diff makes it top speed on the freeway less? I never plan on going over 70MPH with it...........


You think I need to stick to a 300D or maybe a 300TD instead then?

Thanks for your input.
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  #28  
Old 08-24-2012, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
According to my parts order history spreadsheet.. I've spend $675/year over the past 4 years in parts for my 190E.
Geez man. I think I've spent that during this month alone in parts and maintenance.
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  #29  
Old 08-24-2012, 01:42 PM
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I don not think top speed will be affected much, the engine will be at a lower RPM at a similar RPM, still in the 60mph range, but 0-60 times and clutch wear will be increased.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #30  
Old 08-24-2012, 04:17 PM
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eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
...the engine will be at a lower RPM at a similar RPM, ...
Only teasing. Yes, engine rpm will be lower for a given mph. These vehicles were originally geared to achieve the highest speed possible. And since these vehicles produce peak power at essentially the "red line" rpm, lower rpm due to a diff change means lower power produced at a given speed. Which means you run out of power at a lower top speed than before the diff change.

But based on anecdotal evidence presented elsewhere on this site, the change in both top speed and acceleration is small and perhaps not noticeable.

I ran some numbers a while ago and found that the top speed would only drop a few mph, which is going to be hard to notice given all the other variables out there (wind, road grade, etc.).

No, the change to a 300D diff is not a big deal, but I just wanted you to know that there are two potential negative consequences. If it was all good, MB would have picked that gear ratio originally.

So you (the OP) still haven't told us the asking price for that car despite requests? Why?

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).
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