Scary event with my wife driving my 95 E300 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #31 08-24-2012, 10:56 AM

Is there some sort of an mark on the Ball Joint that needs to be lined up during installation; see pic?

Diesel911 · #32 08-24-2012, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Is there no safe way to replace the ball joint with the control arm attached to the car?

Sixto
87 300D

I looked in the Manual; un-like on the W123 there is a special Tool to press out the Ball Joint.
The instructions call for the Tool to be mounted in a Vice; but, it looks like if you had a helper to keep the Tool From rotating it could be done on the Car.
Also un-like on the W123 there is a clear acces to both sides of the Ball Joint and plenty of room for a Tool.

It may be that the Job may be ablet to be done on the Car with with the Autozone type free rental C-press; but, only if the Tubes in the set happen to match up for removal and inatallation.

I have never worked on a W124 so I don't know what would work.
Since the Spring might have popped out some a Spring Compressor still might be needed.

If the Joint comes out through the bottom of the Arm it might be possible to buy a Pipe Union and sit the Union on the Concrete and punch the joint out from the Top.
After that hope that one of the C-press Tubes fits for installation.

vstech · #33 08-24-2012, 11:18 AM

DO NOT LIFT THE CAR!!!

the FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS GET THE SPRING COMPRESSOR ON THE SPRING!!!
if you lift the car the spring can eject itself from the car VERY DANGEROUSLY!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Thinking out loud about how to approach the repair where car sits:

1) Jack the car by the front crossmember high enough to get a jackstand under the right front pad. Hopefully the LCA doesn't extend beyond the point it contains the spring. You might follow along jacking the LCA simultaneously to keep the spring contained.

2) Remove the ball joint pin from the knuckle.

3) Use a jack close to the pivot of the LCA to get the LCA high enough to get another jack under the far end but still clear of the ball joint. You don't need to keep both jacks under the LCA but you want to support the LCA as far from the pivot as possible.

4) Press out the old ball joint socket, press in the new ball joint keeping the notch aligned with the index in the LCA.

5) Aim the strut and knuckle over the ball joint as you raise the LCA. Make sure the car doesn't lift off the jackstand!

An alternative is to raise the front of the car and raise the LCA so the ball joint socket is just under the ball joint pin. Lower the car/strut onto the LCA so the ball joint sections are reunited. Lower the jack holding the body then lower the jack holding the LCA. This should keep the ball joint in its socket. The weight of the car should keep the ball joint seated. Have the car rolled onto a flatbed then deal with it at home.

[edit] Get back there ASAP and douse the ball joint components with penetrant.

Sixto
87 300D

Zulfiqar · #34 08-24-2012, 11:33 AM

The only way to lift this car safely is to first take a strong chain and tie the spring, next get a very low slung jack and put it under the arm and lift it, once its high enough, get another jack and lift the car.

@diesel911 - the ball joint can only be installed/removed from the bottom, there is one small notch that engages a pip on the arm. The problem I have heard with the autozone tool is that it does not have the proper pieces that can seat on the outer lip of the MB ball joint, and the upper piece also needs to be ground sideways too to make it sit flush.

There is also a neat tool on the W124 german forum that is made with 2 steel plates and some really long bolts to pull the joint into the arm. Removal was done by destroying the joint by hammering out the ball and sawing off the shell.

On a british forum a guy had this exact same failure and he cut the shell out, lined up the joint in the hole neatly, used a large socket and a jack on the bottom of the new joint lifted the cars weight onto the jack and then used a hammer to tap the arm boss which caused the joint to slide in.

I still believe that the autozone tool with the right adapters can pull this joint in. - you might have to ask a machine shop to turn a pipe for this.

JamesDean · #35 08-24-2012, 12:35 PM

Man.. this is scary stuff. I'm making a note to check ball joints more often.

compu_85 · #36 08-24-2012, 03:54 PM

It makes a nice loud bang when it lets go.

jmbeam · #37 08-24-2012, 04:30 PM

Thats wild my car looked exactly like yours did. Mine is the same color and the BJ failed on the passenger side also. I read that they ALWAYS fail on this side. Anyone know why? I was able to complete the job in 85 minutes and did not have to collapse the spring. IM lucky it failed when I was basically stationary thus no damage to the fender etc. I called Monro where the NYS inspection took place and he said that the inspection does not include the ball joint at all and that he has asked the State to change their protocols to include it. Ya think! I shudder to think that it was only 72 hours ago that I was driving 70-80 for 4 hours on the NYS Thruway. Thanks for the advice guys

Diesel911 · #38 08-24-2012, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

The only way to lift this car safely is to first take a strong chain and tie the spring, next get a very low slung jack and put it under the arm and lift it, once its high enough, get another jack and lift the car.

@diesel911 - the ball joint can only be installed/removed from the bottom, there is one small notch that engages a pip on the arm. The problem I have heard with the autozone tool is that it does not have the proper pieces that can seat on the outer lip of the MB ball joint, and the upper piece also needs to be ground sideways too to make it sit flush.

There is also a neat tool on the W124 german forum that is made with 2 steel plates and some really long bolts to pull the joint into the arm. Removal was done by destroying the joint by hammering out the ball and sawing off the shell.

On a british forum a guy had this exact same failure and he cut the shell out, lined up the joint in the hole neatly, used a large socket and a jack on the bottom of the new joint lifted the cars weight onto the jack and then used a hammer to tap the arm boss which caused the joint to slide in.

I still believe that the autozone tool with the right adapters can pull this joint in. - you might have to ask a machine shop to turn a pipe for this.

Thanks.

Diesel911 · #39 08-24-2012, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmbeam

Thats wild my car looked exactly like yours did. Mine is the same color and the BJ failed on the passenger side also. I read that they ALWAYS fail on this side. Anyone know why? I was able to complete the job in 85 minutes and did not have to collapse the spring. IM lucky it failed when I was basically stationary thus no damage to the fender etc. I called Monro where the NYS inspection took place and he said that the inspection does not include the ball joint at all and that he has asked the State to change their protocols to include it. Ya think! I shudder to think that it was only 72 hours ago that I was driving 70-80 for 4 hours on the NYS Thruway. Thanks for the advice guys

In the US that would be the side and Wheel of the Car that People occasionally bump the Curb with.

Also most roads in the US are Crowned so the Passenger side is lower than the Drivers side; so more weight is shifted towards the the Passenger side and I guess that would mean when you Brake and the weight shifts forward more weight would be on the Passenger Side Front.

And, no company has come up with a stronger Ball Joint for use on that side???

The Dealer had an MSRP of $32 for the Ball Joint. Maybe they need to make it of stronger material and up the cost to $40; that would still be resonable.

JB3 · #40 08-24-2012, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmbeam

Thats wild my car looked exactly like yours did. Mine is the same color and the BJ failed on the passenger side also. I read that they ALWAYS fail on this side. Anyone know why? I was able to complete the job in 85 minutes and did not have to collapse the spring. IM lucky it failed when I was basically stationary thus no damage to the fender etc. I called Monro where the NYS inspection took place and he said that the inspection does not include the ball joint at all and that he has asked the State to change their protocols to include it. Ya think! I shudder to think that it was only 72 hours ago that I was driving 70-80 for 4 hours on the NYS Thruway. Thanks for the advice guys

good deal! Im glad you got it fixed and away! dont forget to check the other side.

whunter · #41 08-24-2012, 05:27 PM

As per EPC using your exact VIN#

Ball joint, lower (Genuine MB)
MB# 1243330327
$32.00

Right lower control arm
MB# 1243303107
$172.04

Left lower control arm
MB# 1243303007
$170.00

.

colincoon · #42 08-25-2012, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

DO NOT LIFT THE CAR!!!

the FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS GET THE SPRING COMPRESSOR ON THE SPRING!!!
if you lift the car the spring can eject itself from the car VERY DANGEROUSLY!!!

If you lift it slowly it won't. It's designed not to, and every time I've done ball joints on the 124's I've never even touched a spring compressor. You can put some serious flex on the LCA and it wont pop out.

kerry · #43 08-25-2012, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmbeam

I tried to order through Fastlane with Roy but havent heard back so I had to go to Autozone. IM hoping their brand is ok for $37> They were the only one that was open and they said they could have it in the am. It stinks that I had to order from Autozone but as luck goes I have been looking for a used vacuum pump for my other car 1995 s350D so now both cars are down.Looks like i may have to bite the bullet and spend $350 for a new vac pump. Normally Im not this tight but I need another few thousand for my three level artificial disc replacemt surgery done in Germany because it is not done here in the US and Insurance wouldnt pay for it anyway. Insurance wouldnt pay to fuse my back so instead im doing the better option and replacing the discs but it costs ALOT OF MOOLA! At least I know that the surgeon is the best in the world.

Let us know how that goes. I considered that option for my cervical spine but eventually found a non-fusion option with Dr. Jho in Pittsburgh. Lots of people have taken your route.

ds190 · #44 08-25-2012, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmbeam

Thats wild my car looked exactly like yours did. Mine is the same color and the BJ failed on the passenger side also. I read that they ALWAYS fail on this side. Anyone know why? I was able to complete the job in 85 minutes and did not have to collapse the spring. IM lucky it failed when I was basically stationary thus no damage to the fender etc. I called Monro where the NYS inspection took place and he said that the inspection does not include the ball joint at all and that he has asked the State to change their protocols to include it. Ya think! I shudder to think that it was only 72 hours ago that I was driving 70-80 for 4 hours on the NYS Thruway. Thanks for the advice guys

Since there was much advice about what to do and what not to do, would you mind detailing how you did it, how you jacked, and what you used to press the BJ out?

Thanks.

jmbeam · #45 08-25-2012, 12:21 PM

MY 95 E300d had 246,000 miles on it and there were no sounds etc coming from that wheel that would bring any concern. I was going to take a look at the steering in a week because the car did not track as well as it used to.