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  #1  
Old 08-31-2012, 11:53 AM
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Injection pump leak

Hi every one.
It's me again, with an other problem.
This time it's the injection pump on my 85 300D.
I have a leak where the return line to the filter exits the pump.
There is a steel insert in the pump housing to receive the banjo bolt for the return line.
That steel insert is loose and leeks fuel.
How is that steel insert fastened in the pump housing?
Can it be tightened or sealed?

Thanks for your help guys.

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76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2012, 12:31 PM
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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I have never read about that happening before.
If you are lucky it is threaded in and can be backed out.
Other choices; the Insert is: cast into the Housing, pressed into the Housing or Pressed in and swedged or crimped into the housing.

If it is loose in the Fuel Injection Pump Housing but will not rotate or pull out It might possible to use a Copper Gasket wide enough so that the Gasket seats on the Aluminum Housing.
It could be that a Nu-lip type Washer will help seal it.

A more extreme measure would to let the Fuel drain out of the Housing and degrease the area with brake cleaner. With the Pressure Relief/Over Flow Valve still installed apply JB Weld around the leak area and around the Banjo.
Use some thin Nylon String and wrap it tightly around the area between the Housing and over the lower part of the Banjo Bolt.

Coat over the wrapped string with JB Weld wrap the String back the other way and recoat with JB Weld. Repeat that as often as you want.
If yoy need t remove it later use a Propan Torch to burn the Epoxy+String.

If it is loose and rotates all you are left with is grinding the Aluminum Housing to the extent that the insert can be pulled out. Degrease the bore with Brake Cleaner and re-insall the Insert with JB Weld and either switch to the Nu-lip type Washer to seal of be careful not to over tighten the Pressure Relief Valve.

Less effective and better done with the Fuel inection pump off of the Engine would be to degrease the area, especially the area between the Housing and the Insert. Either warm the Housing up to make sure all of the Brake Cleaner has evaporated or let it sit a long time.
After that see if you can wick in some permanent type Loctite between the Housing and the Bushing.

With any repair involving JB Weld you don't want any wet with Fuel surface. That may mean the Fuel Injection Pump should come off.
Attached Thumbnails
Injection pump leak-nu-lip-bonded-aluminum-washer-aug.jpg  
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2012, 03:34 PM
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Thank you Diesel911.

The insert is screwed in.
Here is a pic of the inset.







The pump with out the insert.





The insert also fits into the other two threaded holes in the pump.
Here a pic of a different pump.
Original insert in the back ground.
Loose insert in one of the front threaded holes.

The threads on the insert are M 16 X 1.5 on the outside and M 12 X 1.5 on the inside.

__________________

76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.
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  #4  
Old 08-31-2012, 06:21 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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Just use a Wire Brush and clean the threads; degrease both inner and outer threads with Brake Cleaner and use either the Blue Loctite or the Red one.

You could do the same with JB Weld Epoxy on it but it would be more difficult to remove it.

I am not sure but I don't think the Fuel Injection Pump Housing gets hot enough to keep the Loctite from working. If temp is a problem the JB Weld would work.

Nice pictures.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2012, 08:45 PM
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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I just used some sealer on the threads after I cleaned them.
No more leak.
__________________

76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.
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  #6  
Old 08-31-2012, 10:10 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,216
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1960mog View Post
I just used some sealer on the threads after I cleaned them.
No more leak.
Good. It is a good thing that it was threaded in. It made the Job easy.

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