Raising the dead - 300sdl killed by gasoline - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

southofantarctica · #61 10-20-2012, 10:40 AM

Finally able to work on it some more last night. Closed off the return line like suggested and it worked great at bleeding those last two injectors. However it also raised a new problem, several of the threaded hoses that link the injectors were leaking with the additional pressure. After further inspection, two of the five were rotted and leaking and the rest were well on their way to being shot. Went and picked up some clear rubber hosing and swapped it out.

The question is, how important is it to get the air out of those lines? Do I need to make a point of bleeding them, or is it ok to move on the whatever the next step is?

Merica · #62 10-20-2012, 10:57 AM

I've replaced that braided hose on both of my diesels. It wasn't an issue as far as bleeding. Maybe a small hiccup upon start, that's all. I think at rest those lines have air pockets in them anyway, when I pulled off the rotted ones I didn't notice much fuel dripping out.

pgringo · #63 10-20-2012, 11:28 AM

don't worry about air in the lines between the injectors. i replaced mine with weed whacker fuel line. if that ziptied line doesn't leak real bad, don't worry about it. the stock setup is just a little metal plug that goes in the loose end of that hose. someone probably accidentally threw away that section of old hose and either didn't know, or forgot to save that plug.

tyl604 · #64 10-20-2012, 11:31 AM

When you said threaded hoses, did you mean braided hoses? I did not know they could be replaced with clear hose. Thought you had to have the special rubber braided line which is diesel fuel resistant. I replaced mine probably ten years ago and they still do not leak. Think they cost something like a dollar a foot and I needed a total of two or three feet. Is this really a problem? Can't you just pull the rotted ones off and push on about 3-5 inches of new hose on each one? Also you need not worry about air in the lines.

southofantarctica · #65 10-20-2012, 11:59 AM

Yes, I meant braided hose. Thanks for the correction. The old ones were rotted through. Looks like there were there since '87. Flicked it and the wall tore on it. The ziptied line doesn't leak a drop and if the rubber line does break down, I'll spring for the real lines down the road. Just trying to get run for now, it was all that the part store had last night.

Went and cranked on it some more, still no start. However there is some light smoke coming from the tail pipe when you crank on it. Haven't noticed it before, but it's also been dark most of the other times I've worked on it. My nose wants to tell me is smells like fuel, but I can't say one way or another. Letting the battery charge up some more and giving the starter a rest. See what I can do after a bit.

barry12345 · #66 10-20-2012, 12:38 PM

If it really took the return line shut off to get those two last injectors to prime. There is a chance your fuel return valve is open.

Try to start with the return still clamped off. There will be no harm as the way the fuel system is engineered the fuel pressure reaches a certain pressure and goes no higher. Having the fuel return shut down for testing is okay. No harm will result. If car starts with that main return line closed.

Then you will have to investigate a little further. But first get it running if possible. I was never sure where you were getting the info that starting up on wd 40 was a bad deal. I understand the base of it is just kerosene. And that is close enough to diesel. So far you have no real indication one way or another why the engine is not starting. The wd 40 if applied properly would indicate where to concentrate your efforts in my opinion.

Doktor Bert · #67 10-20-2012, 01:25 PM

X2

southofantarctica · #68 10-20-2012, 10:38 PM

It lives again!!!

How nice it is to be able to write those words. After swaping out the tubes last night, I was now getting smoke coming out of the tail pipe, meaning there was fuel at least trying to do something. After fiddling with it some more today (and spraying wd40 at it) nothing was changing. So we thought, searched and thoughts some more, coming to the conclusion that something was lacking, possibly engine heat. After testing the glow plugs for juice it came back that there was none. Nothing. Followed cables back to relay box, found there was juice going in, but nothing leaving. After further inspection, we found that the 80amp fuse strip had broke, so the glow plugs were not heating the diesel to start it. After checking the ohm and a lot of google, we learned that GP #3 was reading waaaay high. Of course the none of the parts stores, nor the dealer had either part I was needing. But I placed my order with the dealer and they should be here Wednesday. Just for giggles we bridged the busted fuse, disconnected GP #3 and gave it a crank. First turn of the key, life!! We were thrilled. After not being started for over a year, it didn't want to idle at first, but after a bit settled down. I didn't keep it on for too long, and it started again with the fuse jumped after about 5mins of rest.

However, I did notice something strange while we had it going. Bubbles. Injector port #1,2 and 6 had bubbles coming up from around the bottom of where the sit. I'm assuming they're loose/not properly seated? Any of you web wizards have a trick for tightening these down without taking the whole of everything apart?

pawoSD · #69 10-21-2012, 12:51 AM

Bubbles from on the injection pump? Or bubbles from the injectors themselves on the engine? If its the pump, it needs the delivery valve seals replaced.

southofantarctica · #70 10-21-2012, 04:42 PM

Ooops, sorry about that. The injectors themselves. They bubble between the injectors and the little valley that is around them. The ones on the pump side of things are good.

mikeyfev1 · #71 10-21-2012, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southofantarctica

Ooops, sorry about that. The injectors themselves. They bubble between the injectors and the little valley that is around them. The ones on the pump side of things are good.

Congrats on another step. I've still been watching to see what happens with *my* car!

odie · #72 10-22-2012, 04:24 PM

sweet!!!! sounds like u gotta deal :-)

southofantarctica · #73 10-24-2012, 12:13 AM

Dealer parts came in today. Swapped in the new GP and replaced the broken strip fuse in the GP relay box. Car starts like a camp now every time you hit the ignition . Also tested the transmission a little just to see where it was at. No actual driving was involved, but did make sure that it would move when shifted. It felt loose like, but it did engage and moved the car around the three spare feet of driveway. Also changed out the oil and filters yesterday. Had some trouble with a rounded off drain plug, but after some filing a work, it unscrewed. The oil looked good, not cloudy or anything, so I was happy about that.

Plans are to tackle cleaning out the tank, blowing the fuel lines out, take it for a jaunt around the neighborhood to see what else needs to be fix, if things are working against us this weekend. We'll see how it does.

I did some searching about my bubble issue, and I found out that it's most likely a poor seal and that I need to take the injector out, clean the tar out of it and put it all back together. Exactly how intensive is this to do? And what are the implications if I hold off on this?

southofantarctica · #74 10-27-2012, 01:39 PM

After siphoning the tank to get all the gasoline out, we decided to skip pulling the tank and cleaning, and just drive it to the local gas station with our rigged mini tank. The car starts like a dream, just turn the key and it lives, however this was going to be the first time to actually try to move the car more than just up and down the drive way a couple feet. Backed out, and drove the station less than a 1/2 mile away. It took quite a bit revving to get it to back up and it wouldn't shift out of first, but that was halfway expected. Filled up the tank, reconnected lines, thew some diesel lubricator additive in and it still runs great. Perfect. However, after checking the transmission levels, they read really low. Took the other car to get fluid, blah blah blah.

After adding the new fluid reverse would engage without needing to rev the engine at all. But the new problem was that now it stalls when the brake is press in reverse and it sound terrible. Also, when put in drive, it stalls. The only way to get it back to the house was to rev to 1500rmps throw it into 2 and jet out of the parking lot. It cruise fine in 2 unless you need to stop, it will stall. I was too worried about getting back to the safety of the house to check 3 to see if I could manually shift it.

Any ideas??? From looking it seems like vacuum lines are the place to start, which upon closer inspection need to be replaced. However, the reverse is what has me worried. It sounds internal....

Doktor Bert · #75 10-27-2012, 01:50 PM

Hmmmm,

The stalling is likely as simple as having air in the lines. It can take some time to work the air out. I would run it at 1500-2000 rpm for 30 minutes or so, then re-evaluate the run quality. Of course, Cam and Injektor Pump Timing should be checked and confirmed.

I have seen the stalling when placed into gear that you describe when a lock-up torque converter fails, but I am not sure your car uses one.

Perhaps another member can chime in????