May be going to a U-pull-it type yard this weekend, what tools should I take? Other than basic hand tools I mean,
What sizes does M-B use, 10,11,13,15,17,19?
Any special stuff like hex bit sockets? Semi-deep sockets?
Crank bolt size? Any difficult to get to stuff needing swivel sockets etc.?
Torque conv nuts difficult to get to?

May also be pulling an 85 turbo 3.0 liter.

Thanks guys
Steve

I've only had my 78 300D for 3 weeks now but I've found that I most often use the following wrenches:
8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 19mm, 13/16" (or the metric equiv,) good channel locks, 3 sizes of flat blade screwdriver with the largest being 3/8" at the blade tip. 2 sizes of phillips head screwdriver. Razor blade (scraper, hobby knife, whatever,)
Other things you might want to take are: nylon head mallet, ball peen hammer, 3/16" punch, forked tool for removing panels. If you're getting into salvaging suspension parts, you may want to take a heavy hammer like a 1lb slegde or 24oz ball peen as well as a torch and a ball joint fork.
Rubber grippers used to open stubborn jar lids are useful for removing window glass.
Tinsnips just in case.

Have fun!
Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Welcome to the forum Steve

I'd take a whole range of 1/2" drive metric sockets you never know for sure what you are going to find. As you're in the US of A a few imperial sockets might be of use too because again you never know what you might find - there could have been some strange modifications since 1977!

To cut down on the number of tools you need to take I'd only be taking deep sockets and a set of combination open ended ring spanners.

Because you are unlikely to want to leave an engine half out for someone else to grab I'd be taking "emergency tools" like hacksaws and big big bolt cutters as well as a sturdy pair of wire cutters. If the scrap yard allows you to use power tools an angle grinder will be your best friend.

Motor mounts can be particularly stubborn - so think of lots of 1/2" (3/4" might be better) extensions and grolly bars.

I guess the scrap yard will let you borrow an engine crane? If they don't have a load balancer then you might want to take one of those along - they can make things a bit easier for you - and arguably a bit safer as you have less of the need to be pushing on parts of the engine or the car as you pull it free.

Have a look at this link

How I took out my 1981 W123 300D (euro) non-turbo engine

Whilst it is for a slightly later model it should give you some pointers. I think it is easiest to pull the engine and transmission in one go and then separate the two.

Socket size for the bolt on the front of the crank is 27mm and you need a deep one to reach all the way in there

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Welcome to the forum.

Use a Hack saw to cut the radiator support. part between the head lights, then you don`t have to lift the engine so high to get it out.

Going to save the radiator? hose clamps are 7 or 8mm. I have a set of 1/4 in sockets and wratchet and extentions.
Or be sure to have a razor blade knift to cut hoses etc...

set of 3/8 sockets up to 19mm. It is useful for most nut/bolts, and at least 3ft of extentions to get to the top 17mm bolts on the back of the engine above the trans.
I bring a 1/2' drive 18" braker bar and a 1/2 drive wratchet. I also have 1/2 extentions I bring along, sometimes the 3/8 ext flex too much on the top 2 or 3 bolts, but generally the 3/8`s work ok.

starter bolt heads use a 10mm hex bit. I have one cut off to about 1 1/2" and use a 10mm box wrench or socket on it. those suckers are tight sometimes.

The motor mount bolts accessed from under the car are 8mm hex. I use a 1/2" ext about 6"ong and the 1/2" braker bar, give them a quick snap to brake them loose. valve grinding compound helps to give them a little more bite. just don`t round them out. be sure the holes are clean and the bit is well set.

Under the bell housing is a black plastic plate, there are 6 13mm bolts in 3 groups of 2 ea. these hold the torque converter to the FW/flex plate. easier to remove these first even if you are pulling the eng and trans together and seperate them later. You can move the torque converter from under the car with a big screwdriver through the grate by prying it around to line up the bolts..

The oil cooler is attached to the radiator by 2 10mm bolts and a clamp/bracket.

There is a tach sensor on the adaptor plate, and the plug connector is on the firewall. think it is a flat one.
On the back side of the IP is a metal box the rack position sensor, it`s cable has a round connector on the firewall. (Note: this is for the 85 engine)
Disconnect the GP harness and keep it with the engine.
couple fuel lines, usually a phillips works on them.

Don`t forget the battery/starter cables and the ground strap from engine to body.
Couple heater hoses at the oil filter lid and down by the alternator.

Remove the oil line on the back of the oil gauge, 10 & 13mm wrench. pull it out through the firewall and keep it with the engine.

Remove the trans tube dip stick bolt, right rear. and the boost line at the rear of the intake manifold. I usually cut it off with some dykes.

If you don`t have a load leveler, I have pulled out the rear seat belts, cut them off with a knife, and remove the 17mm bolt on the floor. then connect the metal "L" bracket to the front and the rear of the eng. then wrap then around the hook and a couple overhand knots will hold the eng when pulling it.

Most all PNP`s have the "A" frames on wheels to roll over the car.

Short handle bolt cuter
pry bar is good to have.

Mercedes uses 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 15, 17, 19, 21?, 22, 24 mm sizes. the big nut on the DL is 46mm but you can use some large Channel lock pliers to loosen it.

Hope this helps some.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

you will indeed need some allen wrench sockets, and wrenches. the motor mount is bolted to the frame of the car with 8mm allen bolts, and the engine support is bolted to the motor mount with a 10mm allen bolt (it might be 6's and an 8... I'm not totally sure) the Torque converter is difficult to remove from the crank, but if you remove the plastic snubber on the bellhousing, the engine will keep the TC, and it'll slide out of the trans.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Take 22mm, 27mm, and 32mm open end wrenches for the AC lines.

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76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.

Wow, thanks for all the great advice, guys!!! I'm a tech at a new car dealership and I actually went to a couple of M-B classes in NJ back in the mid nineties but never really ended up working on them. I do still have a cut down hex bit socket from when I had to do a motor mount job way back then. Glad I found this forum, it seems great! Now I really want a Benz.

Funny thing is, it's not that I have a car for these engines, it's just that I can't stand to see them go to the crusher. I knew you guys would understand...

They will come in handy for some kickass diesel projects in the future.