i'm about to replace my wasserpump and housing on 606.912. it's leaking between the housing and engine block. i have the new paper gaskets, one for housing to engine block, and another for pump to housing.

can someone give me some tips on these gaskets to ensure they won't leak? are they all assembled dry? it's just a thin paper gasket. or do you apply some sealant to it? what's the best thing to do here?

thanks

I say dry for cooling system components. I read whunter/Roy suggested tying the gasket to the part with thread then removing the thread when bolts are started.

Don't forget a new o-ring for the cabin heater line.

Sixto
87 300D

Yup - on Roy's/whunter's suggestion I tied the water pump gasket to the pump and put it on, you dont even need to remove the thread, its very thin and does not affect the gasket.

Using any chemical compound to stick it will cause some hair pulling.

I use this technique every now and then for gaskets on parts that are a pain to align.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

so i got the wp and wp housing changed out. it had been leaking for a long time from between the housing and engine block. a very slow leak, top it up once every 2 months or so. for several years. and then just recently got worse quick. there was a bit of corrosion on the mating surface of the engine block at the leak site. i scrubbed it down good with scotch brite pad. i used permatex water pump sealant on both sides of the housing gasket, just a very very thin coat, enough to make it tacky. i used a geba brand water pump, as it had a metal impeller instead of plastic, and online reviews pointed at geba as being the best oem brand.

the replacment housing came from the local dealer, a genuine part. 15 dollar core charge. the new part has two threaded holes where the old part had solid bosses. the threaded holes measured out at m14x1.5 thread, less than 10 cm deep. the dealer did not have the plugs in stock. as i needed to get it done asap, i improvised. turns out that 1/2" brass pipe thread plugs from the hardware store fit pretty well. they got a good four or so full turns into place before the threads bind. so i loaded the threads with loctite red gel, and torqued them down goot-und-tite and let them cure overnight. worked like a charm. several weeks of driving now, and no leaks. i of course used a torque wrench on all the wp housing and wp bolts. i think spec was 10 nm or something small like that. torqued in a star pattern, then again to check them.

i used whatever is the latest coolant from the dealer, mixed 50/50 with distilled water from the grocery store. i also took the opportunity to swap the original fan, with the later 11 blade fan from a 606.952. it blows quite a lot more air.

overall, a success.

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I do like to try an be chief ancient post excavator.. lol

Does anyone know if those two tapped fittings are on either side of the thermostat / impeller / etc?

Would be useful for watercooled turbo core take off lines if they were, longshot..


Beers, H.

I see your four year excavation, and raise you another four.

To answer your question, the two tapped fittings shown are on either side of the water pump. One is on pump inlet side, the other is on the pump output side. However I can't say whether or not this is an appropriate place to add a loop for a water cooled turbo. That's a lot of heat load, so there may be other considerations beyond plumbing convenience.

__________________
Current fleet:
1998 E300 turbodiesel
2008 E320 bluetec - leaky oil cooler seals replaced
2012 S350 bluetec
2015 GL350 bluetec

Sold:
1996 Passat TDI
1997 E300 diesel