Just came in to check manual to see if there is any trick to removing the curved air ducts that run on floor from console to under rear seats.

Haven't tried yet, but looks like there is just one screw to remove. What next - do they pull off on the console end and then slide out?

EDIT:

OK, not to worry - the ducts just pull out once that single screw is removed.

PS: Gave me access to whole floor pan which is now stripped of that awful sound deadening!

BUT, while doing it, the accelerator pedal bracket fell off (came away from the floor )
I'll have to get that fixed before I can drive the car again!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Yep that accelerator pedal mount sits in a little bucket of poop when it gets wet...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yes, that little accelerator pedal tang is everyone's ray of sunshine when the car starts to rust.

If you need to drive the car, just remove the pedal from the end of the linkage (the rod it attaches to). You can drive the car fine with your foot on that rod, you'll get used to it quickly.

I drove my w116 for weeks that way while the bodyshop kept putting me off for an appointment to do my floor.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Thanks for the replies.

I was thinking of bolting a new tang to the floor so that I could coat everything with POR. If I weld, then I can only treat after welding. Welder says he has a product that is not affected by welding, but don't know what it is. Maybe just rust converter?

I see same problem with repairing door sill to floor. I would have liked to coat as much of the inside of the rocker panels that I can, but again welding prevents that. I guess only thing to do is spray Rust treatment (Like Krown or Rustcheck) inside the rockers once the welding is complete.

I had another offer for the car as-is ($1500), but decided I am far enough into this, I better get it completed!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

If you need a quick fix I see no problem with coating the little hole under the accelerator pedal with POR15 and then perhaps some epoxy gunk they sell - what is it called Numetal? - or is that the KBS version? Anyway for the sake of a few extra minutes of scraping before you weld you could at least drive it to the welders...

...I'm not sure about the just drive with your foot on the poll option - I reckon my size 12 (US) would slip off and press the other pedal by mistake. I could see it all going wrong for me...

Anyway as for the paint and welding problem you can buy primer that you can weld through. I don't think it is meant to be used for spot welding though - but for some sort of (magic) wand welding(!) I'm pretty sure it would be fine. This stuff gives a layer of protection before you add in the cavity wax solution. Please note - once you weld over it, it dies so right up to the weld isn't protected anymore.

I don't know if it is available in Canada but dinitrol is a fantastic option. All of the MGB boys swear by it - and they should know 'cos those things really rust.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!