Which clear IP fuel line should I be using?

I previous did a search and could figure out what kind of fuel lines the Mercedes diesel owners where using. They don't seem to be sold on the parts website.

I know there is OEM fuel lines with connectors (banjo bolts) attached available, however I don't want to spend $50-$75 each.

I have been using 3/16" vinyl tubing from the hardware store. They seem to work for awhile, before the get brittle and crack.

What are you guys using?

The clear lines are sold only with the ends. I don't think MB offers clear line in free lengths. You can replace them with Diesel (or whatever fuel you're using) rated black fuel line and appropriate clamps. Clear line is a convenience so you can see air pockets. With age, the clear lines turn brown and you can't see though them anyway.

Sixto
87 300D

Regular 5/16"ID hose will fit over the barbs if you cut the plastic line off at the end of the barb and leave the plastic part on the barb. Then hose clamp the new hose on. I had this setup on my 240 for well over 50k miles with no problems.

Otherwise it's 1/4"ID nylon tubing. I've gotten several pieces from Justin at Greaseworks. I don't see it online but I know he has it. I have the advantage of being able to stop by his shop. But if you call I'm sure he'd hook you up.

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McMastercarr.com sells Tygon tubing-it's clear and rated for biodiesel. Around $1/foot when it's all shipped.

The easy way to remove the old tubing without nicking the connectors is to heat it with a lighter and then pull it off with pliers.

Crappy photo where you can see my Tygon lines:

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I've had the clear tubing from Ace Hardware in use for over 10 years on the IP And I have a whole bunch more should it fail

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

If your Car is the 1984 300TD mentioned in your other post you can use the Lighter Method mentioned previously to remove the Old Plastic Tubing. I found that you only want to softe; not melt it so it all plulls off.

I replaced mine with 1/4" Fuel Hose and Clamps that you can buy at any Auto Part Chain Store.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If your Car is the 1984 300TD mentioned in your other post you can use the Lighter Method mentioned previously to remove the Old Plastic Tubing. I found that you only want to soften; not melt it so it all plulls off.

I replaced clear Plastic Hoses with 1/4" Rubber Fuel Hose and Clamps that you can buy at any Auto Part Chain Store.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Shoot, if the vinyl has help up that long go for it!

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

There is Rubber Hose between the Tank and the Fuel Tubing and Rubber Hose for the Fuel Return and the Fuel Inlet and they last a more than resonable amount of time before they need to be changed.
There is Rubber Hose between the Tank and the Fuel Tubing and Rubber Hose for the Fuel Return and the Fuel Inlet and they last a more than reasonable amount of time before they need to be changed.
So replacing the Plastic with Rubber Hose has no short longevity issues; certainly not the same as the Injector Return lines.
And, in My case I simply don't value being able to see through the Fuel Lines as others do.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the replies guys. It's good to know what others with more experience and knowledge have used with success.

Has anybody use 3/16" vinyl tubing without clamps? I found that the hose clamps with 1/4" tubing can easily crimp the vinyl.


@Simpler=Better, what size of the Tygon tubing are you using? with or without clamps?

@Diesel911, why don't you need to see through the Fuel lines? Could a newbie tell there are air in the lines without being able to see them?

[QUOTE=Couper;3018801]Thanks for the replies guys. It's good to know what others with more experience and knowledge have used with success.

Has anybody use 3/16" vinyl tubing without clamps? I found that the hose clamps with 1/4" tubing can easily crimp the vinyl.


@Simpler=Better, what size of the Tygon tubing are you using? with or without clamps?

@Diesel911, why don't you need to see through the Fuel lines? Could a newbie tell there are air in the lines without being able to see them?[/QUOTE]

You can tell by the symptoms.

When I did have a Air Leak my Fuel Lines were too dark colored from age to tell if there was bubbles or not.

For about $3 replacing the Fuel Inlet Hoses solved the problem. So in that case I trouble shoot by replacing parts.

It turned out the Old Hoses were too hard to seal well.
The next frequent source of an Air Leak is the Hand Primer and in my case the Previous Owner had installed that.

On a 617 I have not read of anyone having Air leaks from other sources on a stock setup with the exception that someone had a Cracked Plastic Filter.

If when a person gets His/Her Car and sees an Old Style Hand Primer and replaces it with a New Style One and replaces the Fuel Inlet Hoses (5/16" ID Rubber Fuel Hose) a they have taken car of 99%+ of the Air Leak Sources.

You need to ask how the Tygon Tubing gets inserted over the Hose Barbs. That tubing is really tough.

What I remember from one thread is the person heated the Tygon up to soften it and shoved it over the Barbs on the Banjo.

When I was thinking of using the Tygon Tubing (also the color is a translucent Yellow; not clear) I decided that heating the ends might have a poor chance of success.

I jut took guess I took the easiest way out.

For the Vinyl Hose maybe you could use the spring type Hose Clamps.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Good idea on the spring clamps. I think will be sourcing about a dozen of them and stick to vinyl tubing. Which size, 3/16" or 1/4"?

I plan to be running on 100% WVO soon. If I can get the fuel line to seal properly, wouldn't 1/4" be better for fuel, diesel or veg oil, because of better flow?


I think I have an air leak on another 300TD as it seems to be starving for fuel and barely drives. I will checking the Hand Pump again. What should I be doing to make sure it is sealing properly?

Those spring clamps are AMAZING. Definitely recommend installing them as backup.

I've run mine (on the bench) with no clamps-I dropped the fuel filter housing and the tubing held it, that's good enough for me.

The Tygon tubing I got was color neutral, if a little hazy. Definitely not yellow. It was also very flexible-moreso that vinyl tubing. I might have gotten a different blend, it was made by saint gobain performance plastics.

McMaster Carr Part # 5549K33

Tygothane Polurethane Tubing 1/4" ID 3/8" OD (Although you can get get thicker walls if you want it to insulate ) Formulation C-210-A

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

You will have to use what ever fits on the Barbs.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just ordered too.. Clear Tygothane Polyurethane Tubing 1/4" Id, 5/16" Od, 1/32" Wall Thickness, 10' 14 bucks to my door ... not bad... I wonder if the 5/16 OD will be ok