99 E300 TD fuel leak problem - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mauidieselpetr · #1 10-02-2012, 05:15 AM

bought this car few weeks ago, small fuel leak, sometimes after turning brand new key starter not going on, a/c doesnt work, driver mirror dark, and few little things.....replaced fan clutch, found fuel leak from under fuel shut-off unit, thought its o ring on that line coming towards fuel pump, dealer one o ring cost $8, entire line $24, bought line, replaced, leak stoped, 99%, driven car, last night parked first time on slope, instead on leveled area as usually..this morning no start..thought it will be electronics, sometimes starter doesnt go on,..but this time starter running..not even puff from exhaust..but after while finally puffing, then running, leaking from another plastic line, had to go work, parked it on leveled area...came home, started immediatelly, leaks from top of shut-off, can see randomly air bubbles inside of lines...cople seconds from each other,...as you can see, it needs some work...its frustrating to just guess, no repair manual...many questions, will be then bugging you...
1. where to get o-rings only..or better replace entire plastic lines ? age, etc...
pelican parts has them....
2. anybody has same issue starting? key all the way, everything stops, but starter doesnt start....sometimes must try 3 , 4 times....sometimes ignition doesnt want to release the key, have to kind of viggle it out....it could be starter itself too...
well, i want to fix it all up, its just obvious it will take way longer...parts availability, etc...
Thanks for all help

TMAllison · #2 10-02-2012, 11:05 AM

Always fix the leaks first on the 606. Here is the fuel path. fuelflow.JPG (image) Air enters from suction from lines 1-3 typically and fuel leaks from 4 and beyond because those lines are pressurized.

Search my name and you'll find the oring sizes and counts. Viton lasts longer than the Buna rubber that MB supplies.

The intermittent no crank may be the K40 relay. Supplies power to half the car. Front most relay inside the computer box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Circut board develops minute cracks.

anghrist · #3 10-02-2012, 11:38 AM

Hey Maui',

I'll seconds Terry on the fuel issues and the difference that Viton makes when it comes to quashing leaks on the 606.

He's is also on target with the K40 being a major source of many electrical gremlins when it starts failing.

My starting problems, (lack of ignition interlock release, no starting, key wouldn't turn, key wouldn't release) were attributed to the key not communicating with the system.

But, it sounds like your's is getting past the ignition interlock though. So the K40 relay might be the culprit there.

Might want to change the battery in your keyfob just in case though. It's a cheap enough thing to do.

NY300SD · #4 10-02-2012, 12:19 PM

New K40 might bring back your a/c. Did for me!

Mauidieselpetr · #5 10-02-2012, 08:37 PM

Fantastic info..fuel..relay...really apreciate it..thanks god for this forum...aloha.

carmel · #6 10-04-2012, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Always fix the leaks first on the 606. Here is the fuel path. fuelflow.JPG (image) Air enters from suction from lines 1-3 typically and fuel leaks from 4 and beyond because those lines are pressurized.

Search my name and you'll find the oring sizes and counts. Viton lasts longer than the Buna rubber that MB supplies.

The intermittent no crank may be the K40 relay. Supplies power to half the car. Front most relay inside the computer box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Circut board develops minute cracks.

Do you know where I can get the "viton" o-rings that will fit the 606? Should I buy all new banjo fittings as well?

Know it's been a few years but the dealer wants $1000 to fix this leak...think I'm bending over a bit on this.

TMAllison · #7 10-04-2012, 05:51 PM

McMaster Carr sells them in 10 packs.

A forum member used to sell a prepackaged kit that was a reasonable way to go.

If yours is a 606.962 (98-99) you can move the windsheild washer bottle and reach under the Intake and do all of them yourself. Doesnt take more than an hour. The 606.912 and .911 are a little more cramped.

Mauidieselpetr · #8 10-04-2012, 07:26 PM

Oh, my friend,..no way my car without removing entire intake...to remove that only one line which i have had replaced, it took like 10 minutes to pull it off...couldnt get it off..clips opened, but it didnt want to give...long time of wigle, pulling.....than new one just slided in..both ends...i dont know if it is caused by use of biodiesel....in my opinion this setup sucks..might be great when it was brand new....Aloha.

cullennewsom · #9 10-04-2012, 09:07 PM

Replace all those o-rings. I tried to be cheap and just fix the leaks. You'll drive yourself mad. All of those old nitrile o-rings are hard and flat. If they aren't leaking now, they will be soon. I wasn't caused by biodiesel, or anything else other than they are 13 yrs old now, and ready to be replaced.

TMAllison · #10 10-05-2012, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mauidieselpetr

Oh, my friend,..no way my car without removing entire intake...to remove that only one line which i have had replaced, it took like 10 minutes to pull it off...couldnt get it off..clips opened, but it didnt want to give...long time of wigle, pulling.....than new one just slided in..both ends...i dont know if it is caused by use of biodiesel....in my opinion this setup sucks..might be great when it was brand new....Aloha.

I can do all my orings in 20 or 30 minutes. Move the washer bottle, disconnect the lines to the lift pump and fuel filter housing and then pull the SOV with ALL lines attached to it out as a single unit and work on it on your work bench.......you have to pull the SOV anyways to get to its oring. Make life easier and work on it on the work bench.

kingwanca · #11 10-14-2012, 02:26 PM

Terry, very interesting, I replaced all my lines January of this year, also cleaned intake, ops checked the resonance valve flaps, ran much better.
Last week after a long start cycle (several attempts) I observed a few bubbles in line #1 between the fuel pre-heater and the primary filter along with fewer bubbles in line#2 going to the IFI S/Off valve.
After talking w/Roy at Peach He suggested a bad line so I cleaned it off,ran it a couple of minutes and shut it off, there was some evidence of fuel on top of the pre-heater, leading me to believe it's the o-ring.
Would you do the o-ring or change out the line?

TMAllison · #12 10-14-2012, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingwanca

Terry, very interesting, I replaced all my lines January of this year, also cleaned intake, ops checked the resonance valve flaps, ran much better.
Last week after a long start cycle (several attempts) I observed a few bubbles in line #1 between the fuel pre-heater and the primary filter along with fewer bubbles in line#2 going to the IFI S/Off valve.
After talking w/Roy at Peach He suggested a bad line so I cleaned it off,ran it a couple of minutes and shut it off, there was some evidence of fuel on top of the pre-heater, leading me to believe it's the o-ring.
Would you do the o-ring or change out the line?

The preformmed lines rarely fail; just change out the oring. It is nice to have fresh, clear fuel lines if you are tracking down bubbles. They are ~$10-12 each.

kingwanca · #13 10-14-2012, 05:17 PM

Thanks Terry and to all the guys on this site, great resource.............Will do another post on my frustration w/My Auto Xray 6000 scan tools lack of information, only 8-9 blocks of OBDII data, Andy