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  #16  
Old 10-05-2012, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
Zulfiqar: Is Ford and MB using the same coolant type?
Later fords use the same Zerex coolant, SAAB and BMW also use it.

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  #17  
Old 10-06-2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86-300sdl View Post
High Cruz'n = Higher speeds in hot climates

Re wheel vibration...you need great tires and a true high speed balance job. w126's are just very needy that way.

Re: Engine temps...do what these guys are suggesting +:

Make sure your exhaust flow is primo i.e. install test straight pipe where the "Cat" is. Not a true cat converter but it cloggs up resulting in high exhaust temps. (don't toss the "cat").

Think about adding an exterior trans cooler. Transmission heat transfer to the motor when jetting along at 80+MPH is a real thing

See what an MB Tropical T-stat i.e. 60* or 70* will do for ya. I love this addition to my cooling system.

& in my experience ya need a good new fan clutch. A marginal one is trouble....and I find that my 603 needs that fan yanking / directing air though the radiator even at 80 mph.
great comments:

wheel vibration: I have decent tires (not the very best) but well balanced..still it is shaking at high speeds. Well maybe you are right and I should get a new set of tires.

Cat and exhaust temps: I have cut the Cat open and removed the inner ceramic part and closed it again (welded the thing). It should be open.
Not sure what can clog otherwise.
Is there a way to test restriction?

transmission cooler- great idea! I believe there is a trans cooler integrated in the radiator but it would be great to just add another cooler. Where is a good place to put the new cooler? Has someone done this on a 300SDL?

T-Stat 60/70 degrees? why not. I could have a 80 degree installed .
Does the 60 degree t-stat open more than the 80 degree? I just want to understand why the 60 cools better. At 100 degrees coolant temp: does the 60degree t-stat open more (more area) than the 80 degree one?
I'll get a 60 degree then.

new fan clutch then....Does the fan itself matter ?

best, Martin
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  #18  
Old 10-06-2012, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
Later fords use the same Zerex coolant, SAAB and BMW also use it.
Thanks
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  #19  
Old 10-10-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
Later fords use the same Zerex coolant, SAAB and BMW also use it.
I was at a Ford dealer today. They have the 'yellow' stuff for newer Ford models. Older ones run on 'green' stuff the guy said....
So I can buy the yellow coolant?
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  #20  
Old 10-10-2012, 03:01 PM
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The gold coolant is the zerex-G05 formula. be sure to get the concentration right, in the ME 30% is suggested. be sure to cut with distilled water only.

The 60C stat does not open more - it just opens up completely at a lower temperature, your 80C stat will only go to max cooling mode (bypass port blocked) when the thermostat temperature is 95C before that and above 80C the system runs in mixed mode. The 60C stat does that same thing somewhere near 80C. Hence your system gets to full cooling mode as it closes the bypass at a lower temperature.

There is a debate thread on this too.

Be sure that the fan clutch is working too. It should be really roaring in the ME heat.
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  #21  
Old 10-10-2012, 03:06 PM
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Your adjustment to the IP's full load stop must be reversed. The EGT's are too high....
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  #22  
Old 10-12-2012, 03:51 AM
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I missed the part where he said he modified the IP?

OP: gut your cat.
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  #23  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:02 AM
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I modified the IP. It can deliver slightly more fuel than stock, but I have no additional cooling device. Well I have an exhaust gauge and typically watch it if I hit the gas. Dr. Benz said- don't go beyond 1200/1300F for permanent driving

I typically don't use the additional hp, just sometimes during acceleration.
It is just so much fun to drive.

But now with my workplace being far out and a 3 lane highway, almost empty I tend to drive faster and I am experiencing these high exhaust temperatures.

I just wonder if a stock SDL at 80 or 90mph shows lower exhaust temperatures than mine.
I would not understand if it happened (my exhaust has no color and mileage is the same as before the IP adjustment) but who am I to know.
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:06 AM
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Update: I changed radiator, waterpump and t-stat (original Behr 80C).
Put water wetter in the coolant.

Unfortunately my oil pan started leaking (I hit a bump a while ago but no leak until now) need to fix this one...I have JB weld..hopefully JB is saving me.

As soon as I am on the road again I'll let yo know about the outcome.

I suspect the visco fan also not being 100% but I need to order the part.
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  #25  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
The gold coolant is the zerex-G05 formula. be sure to get the concentration right, in the ME 30% is suggested. be sure to cut with distilled water only.

The 60C stat does not open more - it just opens up completely at a lower temperature, your 80C stat will only go to max cooling mode (bypass port blocked) when the thermostat temperature is 95C before that and above 80C the system runs in mixed mode. The 60C stat does that same thing somewhere near 80C. Hence your system gets to full cooling mode as it closes the bypass at a lower temperature.

There is a debate thread on this too.

Be sure that the fan clutch is working too. It should be really roaring in the ME heat.

Ford charged me 15 Rial in Muscat = $40 for a gallon of Ford Gold Coolant- crazy!
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  #26  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
Update: I changed radiator, waterpump and t-stat (original Behr 80C).
Put water wetter in the coolant.

Unfortunately my oil pan started leaking (I hit a bump a while ago but no leak until now) need to fix this one...I have JB weld..hopefully JB is saving me.

As soon as I am on the road again I'll let yo know about the outcome.

I suspect the visco fan also not being 100% but I need to order the part.
Gut the cat
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  #27  
Old 10-12-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
Ford charged me 15 Rial in Muscat = $40 for a gallon of Ford Gold Coolant- crazy!
Thats robbery. Do you know how to speak arabic? it may help you in locating some other spares shops that wont leech money from you.
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  #28  
Old 10-13-2012, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
Thats robbery. Do you know how to speak arabic? it may help you in locating some other spares shops that wont leech money from you.
I speak 3 word arabic... no way to communicate
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  #29  
Old 10-13-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Gut the cat
Gut the cat. Alternatively you can soak it in citric acid like the radiator...
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  #30  
Old 10-13-2012, 11:24 AM
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update on cooling temperatures after I changed: radiator, cooling pump, t-stat, and used water wetter from redline.

(I was lucky with repairing the oil pan damage with JB weld...no oil leaks any more!)

This is a difference in cooling temperatures:


Same outer conditions I had while driving (95F ambient, AC on, driving 80mph, same highway).
When I saw 110C on the dash before.... I am seeing 90C now!!!!

Problem solved..... the question now is (maybe) what was the problem?
What do you say?
The old water pump was fine I believe...nothing was wrong at least.
T-stat? The old one was exactly the same Behr...It actually looked brand new. I changed it anyway.
I'd say the radiator made probably the difference . the old one was probably restricted?
or covered inside with gunk? Outside it looked okay..not much dirt restricting airflow. But inside.....I could open it up and see how the inner pipes look??
Just if there is some interest.

And the water wetter stuff is probably doing some magic?

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