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#16
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Hey, don"t be making fun of my Camaro.
As far as I am aware, the cleaner type lubricants will gradually dissolve any sooty buildup in the injectors or on the valves, but dont contribute any lubrication to the injector pump. For that purpose, you need a lubricant type additive, like the Kleen-Flo or Hawes that I have found at the truckstops. Kyle's advice is good - although I have not yet used a diesel purge as he has used, it is a good idea, as it helps clean all the soot out of the manifolds as well as clean out the fuel lines, as I understand. When it warms up a bit I will do this type of service. As a typical gullible male, brainwashed by marketing hype as I am, I also plan another useless male ritual soon - the Sun Engine Vac. This is typically done at the spring and fall equinox, and the ritual consists of sombre men, (some of whom must have goatees and greasy mullets) hooking up the engine of our dear beloved diesel automobiles and trucks, to a device that then sucks all the soot out of them, while the men chant John Gray passages. You, Carla, might find this arcane ritual to be a bit silly, but then again maybe there is a scientific reason for this that you might research through the various Boolean search techniques that you use. I only do it cuz I read somewhere that this is something that Men With Diesels Must Do. For a complete and confidential interview to discover all of the secrets of maleness, please contact me by private message. |
#17
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Thanks for the private message, Carla. Yes, I will meet you tonight. I have managed to excuse myself from my court ordered Substance Abuse Awareness class, by claiming that yet another close relative had suddenly died.
I'll be there with bells on. |
#18
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I have used and am using additives made by Gunk. They actually have several types just like many other manufactures. One is the cleaner type and the other is the for everything. I bought three gallons of the later stuff due to the close out of Farm & Fleet. It says it is designed specially for the low sulphur fuel.
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#19
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<<
"The low sulphur fuel"; I understand that all diesel fuel nowadays is "low sulphur". Is that right? >> That is correct, at least in the US. << I have never seen "Premium" diesel fuel. >> Premium diesel fuel is also low sulphur but has higher cetane and all the other good stuff. Actaully they use the additives we are talking about to make premium fuel. If you can find premium fuel, try it. Your car will run quieter, smoke less, have more power (just like you use a good additive). |
#20
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I always have some bio around and if not running it at 100% a few gallons still gets into the tank. It works just like the additives, no smoke,smooth running, smells like french fries. If on the road and running 100% dino fuel I have always used what we used on the farm in the tractors, 1/4 bottle of 2 cycle motor oil. 2 cycle has no ash, is made to lube high heat and high stress parts like you find in an IP and injector, and like any oil added to diesel will raise the cetane numbers. For good measure I also run a can or two a year of diesel purge at 100% through the system. This more than anything else really makes the car happy. Yes ladies, Helga is "just a machine", but don't let her hear that or she will leave your ass on the side of the road on a dark cold wet night in the middle of nowhere.
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#21
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Hey Rebootit,
How can you find out who sells Bio-Diesel? I've done a couple of searches but have had no luck. I'd like to run a tank or two 'cause I need to clean out the fuel system. How'd you find your's in St. Pete (I'm assuming FL)?
__________________
Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
#22
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If you want bio here you have to make your own. The companies that run the grease sucker trucks are based in Lakeland and they do make bio there. I am not sure if it's sold to the general public or used to run their own equipment and the big mining equipment around that area. A few months ago I saw a news story about a company here that was going to build a plant in the area but have heard nothing since.
Making bio is not hard. Tons of info on the web and the supplier of the methanol in St. Pete is Hole Shot Racing on 66th street. I started making bio as a school science project with the kids. Just went from a blender to larger scale after seeing how easy it was. |
#23
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Red Line Diesel Fuel Catalyst is my brand, bar-none.
What sold me on it was when I tried to get rid of an injector knock in an '81 240D I had years ago by using Lubro Moly products with no success. Then I tried a bottle of Red Line DFC and the injector ping was gone just a bit after running the treated fuel through the car. I have stuck with DFC ever since. Rather than a few ounces at every fill-up, I will wait about three or four tanks and just pour in an entire bottle since it claims to treat up to 100 gallons. And also when I change fuel filters, I fill the main cannister filter all the way up with a bottle of DFC and run it full strength (it also prevents air from getting into the fuel system when you fill the filter all the way up before installing it). Red Line oils and lubricants are also great products. I used Red Line synthetic ATF in my BMW 745i and also Red Line synthetic oil in the engine. Of course, with a turbo that car needed top quality oil. I have since switched to Agip lubricants in my workshop and I will say that they are, in my opinion, superior to others in quality. I figure if they are good enough to be factory fill in Ferraris and Lamborghinis, they are good enough for my MBs!
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Regards, Aaron |
#24
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Howes anyone?
I just added an entire container of Power Service Diesel Kleen to a new tank of gas (as well as a bottle of Techron). While I was at the truck stop filling up, I saw two products by a company called Howes. One was a Diesel Conditioner and the other was the "Meaner Power Kleaner". The propoganda looked good. Has anyone had experience with any of these?
__________________
Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
#25
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I really need to know - can you do your motor harm by using Too Much fuel additives?
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#26
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That's a very good question. I'll let you know after this tank.
__________________
Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
#27
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I guess we will see whose injector pump goes whoof first. In a lamebrained lazyass effort to correct what I perceived as sluggishness I poured an entire bottle of "Gunk", a cleaner type additive, meant to treat "up to 800 litres of fuel" into my tank. So far, no explosions or ominous grinding noises. So now, I suppose I will have to add a lubricant-type cleaner to my fuel to compensate.
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#28
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lol
now thats funny. I bet you'll have the cleanest gunk-free engine on the block. If its still running ! :-)
__________________
2004 Ram 2500 Cummins HO 2000 Jetta TDI 1999 E300 (sold) |
#29
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Half the tank is gone, and no ill effects are noticeable. No beneficial effects, either. Hmmm...
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#30
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ha!
Maybe the same guy that designed castrol syntec designed that gunk product
__________________
2004 Ram 2500 Cummins HO 2000 Jetta TDI 1999 E300 (sold) |
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