Those who have done an MMO cylinder soak
 

Hey guys,


So my engine in my '84 300D has 150K on it, starts right away, good power, all seems pretty solid. Haven't ever gotten compression #'s on it. It has a bit of blow by, which I don't let bother me nowadays.

Anyway, I will be getting new injectors soon, and I had planned that when I got the new injectors and had them out, I would do a Marvel Mystery Oil soak in the cylinders. I've read a lot about people doing it, especially on here. Some have seen some decent improvement, some not much. Haven't read about any adverse effects of it yet.

I don't mind the car being down for a week, I was planning to do other stuff on it while it sat. However, in all the reading I did on it, I could not find a specific instructional procedure, so I was hoping to find at least one person who's done it and can answer some questions.

1. How much MMO do you use per cylinder? I want to say I read 1/4 cup, but I can't find where I read that.

2. I remember reading you have to turn the engine every so often. When they say turn, do they mean turn it over a couple times with the starter? Or like using a wrench to rotate the engine by hand?

3. How many rotations roughly should I do, and how often?

4. Once the week(5 or 7 days?) has gone by, and I'm ready to start the engine, do I need to try and suck the MMO out of the cylinders with a hand pump or something, or do I just start the car? I want to avoid some kind of hydro lock obviously.

I think that covers everything. Also, if anyone who has done this has anything they feel I should know, feel free to throw it in.

Thanks!

Why ,WHY, why ?
 

Are you gonna "Mess With" a "Well Running" Diesel ?
@ 150K Miles that engine is about 1/4 way through it's "Normally Treated"
Lifespan.
[EXCELLENT,"UpKeep" will ,Of Course EXTEND that figure out into the almost
Million Mile Mark]

If there are NO Observable problems...
AND BARRING a Compression/LeakDown Test Series...
I'd just enjoy driving it!

1.Super High Quality Synthetic Motor Oil ...Like Redline.
2.Adding Synthetic Marine Two Stroke Oil to the Fuel
(to make up for the lack of lubricity in ULSD Diesel)
3.Application of Startron (To fight Off Fungus)
4.adding Redline 85 PLUS for Cleanliness.

Will do much more OVER TIME than the MMO "SOAK"


It's (MMO "Soak") is for "Ill Engines" showing signs of neglect !!!

AND PERSONALLY,
If I were ever to "SOAK" an engine it'd be with KROIL!

If
 

You've got: either the Injectors or the Glow Plugs OUT for a "SOAK"
USING the STARTER will only SPRAY THE FLUID EVERYWHERE!

The Basic Problem Solvable (If At All)
 

by MMO
Is Stuck or Carbonized Rings.

Which would be symptomatic of Compression/Blowby problems Diagnosed by
a LeakDown test.

Well the main thing is the blow by. I mean, it's not terrible, but I feel like there should be less. I don't know how well the engine was maintained before I owned it, I just know what I've been able to do.

I don't really have access to the tools for a leak down test. I was just going to do it to see if it helped. I figured it not, no harm/no foul. I knew the MMO wouldn't be like a magic solve all, but I did read it can help with the stuck piston rings.

Is there any adverse effect to me just doing it? I mean, if there is, I just wont. Wont really bother me.

Also, thank you for that list of other stuff to try, I'll have to look into some of that. It can't hurt as well. If I did decide to do a soak, I saw you mention Kroil, is that like an alternative to the MMO? Could it have the same effect on stuck/carbonized rings?

Here is the webb site for Kroil mentioned above. they have a long list of products. I use their penetrating oil and it work s good.

Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

My Bro in Law has a 82 240D he picked up 6 months ago with 136K from from an estate. car spent most of it`s life in Carmel/Monterey, Ca putting around town and never getting out on the hwy for a good run. uses oil and has blow by pretty good. runs good and average mpg for an automatic 240. it has been on some long trips to Los Angeles (400 miles) a few times and one trip to Oregon, 740 miles ea way.

He added some MO to the eng oil and ran it for 100 miles and drained it, helped some on the oil usage. Then a month ago we filled the cylinders with it and let it soak for a week, put rags over the injecter holes and turned the eng over to blow out what ever was left. Added new heat shields and screwed in the injectors and bled the fuel system. that helped to drop the oil usage some and the blow by has dropped.

Next on the list is a compression check when ever we can get back together.

Kreen is what Kano recommends for stuck rings etc... it is listed in the engine cleaners tab.


Kreen

Internal Engine Cleaner - Improves Performance
Guaranteed to improve your engines performance. When added to
either the gas or oil of your engine, Kreen dissolves the carbon deposit
buildups and varnishing to Improve Compression · Increase Gas Mileage
Reduce Downtime · Restore Power By thoroughly cleaning the rings, valve, and fuel injectors - Kreen gives new life back in any gas or diesel engine.
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Order direct or for more information
800-311-3374

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Charlie

Have you adjusted the valves yet?

If you do go with an MMO soak, you can' add too much. Just be sure that it is all evacuated before you try starting it or you will damage something.

I've been very please with Kroil products for loosening bolts, so I'd imagine their engine stuff is A-#1 too.

When turning it over after soaking for a few days, turn it by hand nice and slow.

In my gas truck MMO helped to "smooth it out" when I started adding it to the oil (190k on the engine, regular oil changes, etc.)

I use MMO as a purging fluid and add to gasoline and diesel fuel.It always gas or diesel helped mileage

Hey guys,

thanks for all of the tips and tricks. Just to clarify, I have adjusted the valves, and done honestly everything else to get the engine as close to tip-top as I can. At this point the new injectors are the last thing I'll be doing on it for a bit(hopefully).

I've decided I do want to try the MMO soak. So from what I've read in this thread, let me see if I got the steps right:

1. Pull injectors to gain access to cyliner

2. Deposit MMO into each cylinder. Guessing that 1/4 cup per cyl is good or does it not matter as long as I get it all out?

3. Let engine sit and soak, rotate engine with a wrench every few days. Should I do a bunch of rotations or just turn it over a bit?

4. Afer 7 days, with the injectors still out, crank the engine over with the starter a few times and make sure it's pushed all of the MMO out. (this is the part that worries me a bit, how can I be sure when it's pushed enough out to not damage the engine? Or would any excess just burn as a fuel?

5. Install new heat shields and put on new injectors, bleed lines, etc.

Am I missing anything there?

A while back we added MMO to Bro in Laws 82 240D. I probably added a 1/4 cup to ea cylinder. used a squirt bottle an just filled them up.

He was gone for a week on a trip, and the car is 65 miles from me, so didn`t rotate engine during the week.

A week later we rotated the engine with the starter, and almost nothing came out of the injector holes. we had rags over the holes to catch any oil spraying out. so the majority of oil seeped past the rings during the week.

Rotating the engine by hand won`t hurt anything, may help.

Charlie

I have not had any success loosening stuck rings with a soak. Others may have, but not me.

I have had success loosening stuck rings with water injection.
I have used water injection to loosen stuck rings on a 606 (not mine). It had much smoke, blow by, and hard starting. Cured.
I have used water injection to help seat rings on a 603 that was re-ringed. (Long story, but the rings did not get set properly initially.)

Do yo mind me asking more details on the water injection method you used to release said stuck rings?

My advice is to leave well alone. If you think there is a problem borrow a leak down tester - otherwise just use the car. A couple of really good long runs at motorway speeds always helps a car along in my experience.

There is no specific amount to put in. I did about 1/4 cup per Cylinder.

No matter what you put in after 1 week what is not on top of the Pistons is going to drain past your Piston rings by way of the Ring Gap and the Groove to ring Clearance.

When you are done you need to Crank the Engine with the Injectors or Glow Plugs out to blow off any liquid MM on the Piston Heads.

The MM Soak unstuck the Piston Rings on My Volvo but was when I did the same to the Mercedes there was no apparent effect on anything including the Blow-by.

I am not in favor of adding MM Oil directly to the Motor Oil in Diesel Engines especially if you use multiviscosity Oil as most do. Putting MM Oil into the Engine Oil is going to dilute and thin it.