|
|
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
For those who may not know what bench bleeding a Master Cylinder is, it is filling the MC with fresh fluid and removing the bubbles BEFORE installing it. Makes the bleeding operation much easier later.
It IS advisable to completely flush out the old dirty fluid with new fluid when you have installed new hydraulic parts. I guess it would be better to change out the MC first so you don't send dirty fluid down into your new parts. As far as caliper bleeding order, there were many systems that would not bleed properly if you skipped around. Bleeding from farthest to nearest to Master Cylinder just became a habit for me and always worked properly. Don't know if it's actually mandatory on a MB.
__________________
Codifex 1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.) 1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof. 1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins) Last edited by Codifex Maximus; 10-27-2012 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Refined information. |
#32
|
||||
|
||||
According to the FSM you should bleed in this order:
RR, LR, RF, LF
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
1983 300D turbo diesel |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
You scare me
Let me get this straight....
You say your brakes have been doing poorly lately, yet you did nothing about it. Your brake warning light was on for your pads, but you did nothing about it. Your brakes finally gave out. You could have killed someone. If you have no clue what you're doing with brakes, then HAVE SOMEONE WORK ON IT, WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I assure you it wasn't as bad as you think. The brake light isn't on for the pad, it's just blinking intermittently whenever I drive over bumps (which is about everywhere). I wasn't driving around when the brake were poor, I let it be and waiting till I could drive it to go get it fixed. I kept on roads where there were no other cars/stops and drove slowly in case I needed my e brake. I really appreciate your concern though
__________________
1983 300D turbo diesel |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
If the rotor is cutting the sensor wire, grab your micrometer and measure the thickness of the rotor. Replace if below spec. MB rotors are just dumb gray cast iron and meant to be replaced fairly often. MB does not even recommend turning the rotors.
|
#37
|
|||
|
|||
I agree with BobK, if those rotors are not parallel from edge to hub, you'd probably want to replace them. They are not that expensive; actually they're pretty cheap and well worth the investment.
__________________
Codifex 1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.) 1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof. 1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins) |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|