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  #16  
Old 10-15-2012, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jareb View Post
1985 300TDT
There are at least 3 different air cleaner brackets available with a big difference in prices. My question is: do the higher prices equate to a significant increase in quality. e.g. MTC is $10; Meyle is $40; and Mercedes is $190!!
Damn! About four years ago I bought a bracket from the then sponsor for about $29 along with the mounts and enough odd parts to get up to the order up to $50 for free shipping.

I just got to working on it and found the bracket was intact and I didn't need the one I bought. It is an MTC. I was hoping to sell it for near the $29 I paid. Not going to happen.

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  #17  
Old 12-12-2012, 10:58 AM
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Has anyone purchased the MB air cleaner bracket?

Just wondering if anyone has purchased the $180 MB air cleaner bracket. If so, how long has it remained in one piece? I tried to ask the Pelican folks if the MB part was made out of a superior alloy that was less prone to metal fatigue...I got two non-answers. I miss Phil . If the MB part is made out of a better alloy and lasts two to three times longer, it might be worth the four times higher price.
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:07 AM
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Wow! $180! I doubt anyone from here would pay so much for that...even if the alternates break...you'll get through 4-5 for that cost.

IMO, you're better off to just weld in additional metal to your existing one. If you would like I could do it for you, for a small fee of course
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
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93 300E 195k
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  #19  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:31 AM
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Time = money

I'm considering my time to change out the brackets as well.

My bracket broke across the threaded hole for the mount that is close to the front of the engine. Looks like someone tried to remove the air cleaner housing after unbolting just the other two mounts. Not sure how easy it would be to weld it back together and keep the threaded hole serviceable as well.

I like fixin' things right and hate doin' it twice...or three or four times
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:55 AM
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Both my 300SD's brackets broke in the same place, where the arm extends out to the far mount.

Here is another thing you could do, if you buy one of the better quality aftermarket ones yo could always weld in additional steel to both the arm area and the other mounts.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #21  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:01 PM
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I tightened (just a little, it's probably due to be replaced) my rack dampener bolt on the back of the injection pump then added a bushing in the space between the air cleaner and the valve cover. Helped a lot. Here's a quote from one thread:
The air filter mount problem has existed long enough. This is the
repair.....Looking at the air cleaner, notice the small space between the air
cleaner and the valve cover. There is a flat area on the air cleaner housing
near the valve cover. The repair requires an old rubber shock absorber mount, a 6 mm bolt (10 mm hex) about 10 to 12 mm long, flat washers and a nut. Make a mark on the forward area of the flat side of the air cleaner housing (toward the valve cover). Remove the air cleaner housing and drill a 6 mm hole at the spot you marked. Put the bolt in the hole from the inside using the washers and nut. Now you have a bolt sticking out of the air cleaner housing...

Take an old rubber doughnut from a shock absorber and stick it over the
protruding bolt/nut. Be sure the bolt does not stick out of the rubber. Reinstall the housing and viola the air cleaner housing is unable to
generate enough momentum to break the bracket. I've been doing this for about 8 years....never had a second air cleaner bracket break.
The idea is to limit the movement of the housing. Even when they were
new the brackets were prone to failure.

Regards,
Randy D.
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  #22  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:58 PM
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I like it

Randy, now that's thinking outside the box! I like it. Thanks
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  #23  
Old 12-12-2012, 10:25 PM
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When I first got My Car it had that Hot idle shake and the Air Filter Housing intermittently would sound like something was going to rip off of the Engine.

Some where in one of the Thread if you put a 3/4"or 1" Heater Hose between the Valve Cover/Manifold and the Air Filter Housing it keeps it from vibrating a lot.

I also fixed the casues of the shaking and My Air Filter Bracket never Broke or stripped threads.
I got 4 years of use out of it before I removed the Air Filter Housing and did a mod on My Air Intake.

One of our Members made/welded a Bracket out of Angle Iron.
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  #24  
Old 12-14-2012, 05:02 PM
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I installed an MTC bracket about 6 months ago after the old bracket broke off almost all the mount points. The MTC bracket was a noticeably heavier gauge steel. I installed new rubber mounts with heat shields and I have not had a problem to speak of with it. I did buy the MTC bracket elsewhere because it was being offered at half the price.
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  #25  
Old 12-14-2012, 07:35 PM
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I also got an MTC one about 2 months ago, and it is definitely of better quality, then what was in my SD before. Now everything is tight and no shakes.
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  #26  
Old 12-14-2012, 07:43 PM
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Have you considered just welding it back together. A bit of scrap metal under the crack can make it better than new, reinforced where it flexes the most. None of your handiwork will show.

Perhaps you are after concours, then never mind.
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  #27  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:30 AM
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"My bracket broke across the threaded hole for the mount that is close to the front of the engine. Looks like someone tried to remove the air cleaner housing after unbolting just the other two mounts. Not sure how easy it would be to weld it back together and keep the threaded hole serviceable"

I am not aiming for a concourse quality restoration, I just want to maximize the time between fixes (I also have a 60yo house). I am considering reinforcing the long support that holds the mount that is furthest from the engine...no matter which one I buy. When this long support cracks, does the crack initially run across the top or bottom of the support? Anybody know?

Thanks all
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  #28  
Old 12-15-2012, 02:25 PM
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Here is where my my one broke...




I think my other SD's broke in the same area as well.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #29  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:01 PM
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Hi Fred
Yep at some point new is easier. Having a welder is just great for patching old steel back up. It wouldn't be that hard to weld in a large washer and a 6mm nut or just drill it out and use a regular nut under it. If you have to pay someone to weld it then new is cheaper.

Mine hasn't cracked yet although one of the rubber isolators had the rubber split away. I just used a longer bolt and thick rubber washer. It was one of those things that happens when you take it apart and then the unexpected happens.

Seems like from what I have seen it is a commonly replaced part.
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  #30  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:52 PM
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Just replaced my wife's bracket AGAIN today. At least it's a quicker job each time . Just have a gasket ready for the oil line to the turbo. Murphy's law, if you have the gasket you'll never need it.

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