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Front end rebuild
How much am I looking at spending for parts for a front end rebuild? It has some really bad dry rot and feels pretty loose.
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Ball joints, tie rods, control rod bushings, shock bushings (or new shocks), control arm bushings (or new control arms), steering damper. You can look up prices above by clicking "New Parts Catalog". |
Thank you! Just what I was looking for.
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Here is a parts list to help you.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/192242-w126-front-steering-suspension-rebuild-list.html . |
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Mine is still good but I removed it to Clean it and while it was off the Car I drove the Car and found out I did not need it at all. The Torsion/Sway Bar has 2 Bushings were it pivots on the Chassis and there is 2 downet shaped rubber Bushings on each side where the Sway Bar goes through the Upper Control Arm. It is also common for the Sway Bar Tips to have rust issues so they need to be inspected. If they break off there is a repair for that. If the Ball Joints in the Upper Contol Arms are no good the Whole Arm needs to be replaced. If you have time to do so it is better to remove and inspect the parts and then order what you need. |
Cost is about $600. I just ordered a complete kit for my 420SEL. All good brand names.
Upper Control Arms Lower Control arm bushings, ball joints sway bar bushings guide rod bushings (front and rear) new support bearing bracket bushings (big fat ones) new spring pads shocks are already new springs are OK too. 200 for a spring compressor as well. |
I was price checking at my parts place and it came to $237. With new shocks, I might have check that again though
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check in with phil for a break down on lemforder/OE parts pricing! |
I bought guide rods mounts as well, they are $60-70/each usually.
Also depends on what brands you are using. I used mostly Lemforder, and Febi where Lemforder was not available. |
I've rebuilt many of W126 FE and failures will occure in this order:
Shocks (nothing but Bilst otherwise disapointment) Guide rod bushings Lower ball joints Tie rod ends Upper control arm/ball joint Lower control arm bushing (pretty robust lasting a few hundred K miles) I'm sure there will be some 'expert' chime in but I have owned many of these cars since new and continue to drive two on a daily basis. Oh yea, the steering box is crap. Usually sloppy at 100K. |
Avoid URO and OE Brand (Yes, its called OE Brand, not as in the OEM brand used). URO is the worst.
Heck, I bought a grille insert thinking that they could at least make that decently. its fricken plastic! Nope, plastic is pitting already!! Ugh! This will be a project for me soon. Lower ball joints where a PAIN to install, yet I did it faster than the book time. At least I have those out of the way. The rest is pretty straight forward. Then onto the rear end.... |
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I agree with steering box assessment. Both SD's are crap. The one is completely shot it has like 2" of play at center. You can rock the wheel in the notch. The other is driveable but annoying. My 190E angers me. I want to buy a rebuilt one but havent pulled the trigger yet. The 300D must have had something done to its.. Its amazing. No play. Nice response. Probably not original but I've seen no records mentioning it. 240k on the clock too. |
I had my front end rebuilt about six years ago. I sourced the parts from this site and cost was on the order of $500. Labor was a lot more. I wanted to do it myself, but I didn't have a place to do the work at the time. I didn't do shocks at that time, since they were still ok. I did front shocks last year (don't remember the cost but I think it was on the order of $200 for hi-po Bilsteins, I did the work myself). The steering box is starting to get worn out, but after almost 322,000 miles, I think the lifespan of the original has been pretty good.
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Charlie |
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