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  #16  
Old 10-15-2012, 06:53 PM
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I've only started logging MPG since doing the manual wastegate mod. The no-highway mileage has been 28 MPG.

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  #17  
Old 10-15-2012, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
LOL.

I bought a cheap manual kit for the time being. Hell, it was cheap enough maybe I can rig up some kind of simple valve and run two kits! Time will tell.
I was only half joking. We could have this thing together in a snap.

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I don't know what the cool kids are using for wastegate actuators, maybe I should head over to STD and find out.
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2012, 11:27 PM
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How about a Pressure / Vacuum Switch, it would indicate boost by illuminating a switch in the car. That switch when activated closes a solenoid cutting off vacuum to the factory wastegate actuator. This allows for manual override of the turbo by the driver.

For those of use with a converted (pressure to open) wastegate actuator there would need to be source of pressure to force the actuator open.
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  #19  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300D-91 View Post
How about a Pressure / Vacuum Switch, it would indicate boost by illuminating a switch in the car. That switch when activated closes a solenoid cutting off vacuum to the factory wastegate actuator. This allows for manual override of the turbo by the driver.

For those of use with a converted (pressure to open) wastegate actuator there would need to be source of pressure to force the actuator open.
Booooooring. I want some software in there. Switchable modes, more blinking lights.
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  #20  
Old 10-16-2012, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cullennewsom View Post
Booooooring. I want some software in there. Switchable modes, more blinking lights.
So you want the factory setup I removed, but with lights :-)
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  #21  
Old 10-16-2012, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post

The turbocharger recovers exhaust energy, so disabling should make the engine less efficient. Diesels run WOT all the time, so a turbocharger is an ideal match.
The turbo does extract energy out of the exhaust, however, it's not without a penalty. With the increased backpressure from the turbo, the engine must consume additional fuel to compensate.

The energy that is extracted is utilized to compress the incoming charge air, with the expectation that additional fuel is delivered, and therefore the engine produces additional horsepower.

If the additional horsepower is not required or desired (steady state cruise), you'd be hard pressed to make the argument that the turbo would increase fuel economy simply by raising the temperature of the incoming charge air.

Remember, the additional fuel economy can only be obtained if the initial loss generated by the turbo's backpressure is overcome. I'm a bit doubtful that this can occur simply by elevating the temperature of the charge.
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  #22  
Old 10-16-2012, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 300D-91 View Post
So you want the factory setup I removed, but with lights :-)
Yeah, bright blue ones that poke your eyes out. We're (or at least I am) talking about a 300D. There's not much electronic in there.

W123 electronics listed from most complicated to least, as installed
Mobile telephone
Stereo
Cruise Control
Tach Amplifier
Instrument Cluster
Turn Signal Relay
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  #23  
Old 10-16-2012, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
LOL.

I bought a cheap manual kit for the time being. Hell, it was cheap enough maybe I can rig up some kind of simple valve and run two kits! Time will tell.
Before you waste a lot of time, can you simply rig a boost gauge and read the boost at a steady state 65 mph (or whatever your typical cruise speed would be)?

Be very careful with your right foot to ensure that you're not accelerating or decelerating slightly, which will have a significant effect on the boost. You're looking for the pedal position that will just barely maintain speed on level ground (also difficult to find). Then, read the boost gauge and report back with result.
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  #24  
Old 10-16-2012, 11:19 AM
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just to add some more info to the mix:
so at 2500 rpm - 4psi boost = 58mph flat level ground at about 900ft elevation, light to no wind.
I started doing this on a quest for MPG and first noticed when i got a new caliper my boot levels dropped and my speed increased (waiting on mpg results). I was a little surprised at the all the changes ... so here is what i am talking about:
hanging caliper: 3000 rpm - 9psi = 65mph
hanging caliper: 2500 rpm - 7psi = 55mph
hanging caliper: 2000 rpm - 5psi = 42mph
new caliper: 3000 rpm - 7psi = 69mph
new caliper: 2500 rpm - 4psi = 57mph
new caliper: 2400 rpm - 3.5psi = 55mph
new caliper: 2000 rpm - 2psi = 45mph

now as for wind i am finding in head on winds at 25-30mph the boost levels increase by about 1.75 but speeds lower by 1-2, tail winds lower boost levels by about the same 1.75 and increase speeds by about 2-3..
also to put this into summery at 55mph with a hanging caliper i was getting 26-27mpg, now i am getting about 27-29mpg.
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  #25  
Old 10-16-2012, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myskyon View Post
new caliper: 3000 rpm - 7psi = 69mph
new caliper: 2500 rpm - 4psi = 57mph
new caliper: 2400 rpm - 3.5psi = 55mph
new caliper: 2000 rpm - 2psi = 45mph

.
Good info........thanks.

The question begs whether the vehicle would get improved economy from zero boost at 2500 or, especially at 3000 rpm where the boost is significant.

I'm sure the n/a engine can maintain 69 mph without any boost.

Climbing hills, however, would be a problem.
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  #26  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Before you waste a lot of time, can you simply rig a boost gauge and read the boost at a steady state 65 mph (or whatever your typical cruise speed would be)?

Be very careful with your right foot to ensure that you're not accelerating or decelerating slightly, which will have a significant effect on the boost. You're looking for the pedal position that will just barely maintain speed on level ground (also difficult to find). Then, read the boost gauge and report back with result.
Good idea. I have a boost gauge now. I'll have to run it neatly into the car later in the week. It'll be up at the shop getting some new brake lines.
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  #27  
Old 10-16-2012, 05:14 PM
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Hey James, since you know so much about the cruise control amps, can you tell me the easiest place to get a signal that's proportional to wheelspeed? This is for the Scroogifier.
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  #28  
Old 10-17-2012, 05:53 AM
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Just to throw a little insight into how the newer models operate, the ECU on my '98 will completely open the wastegate when the speed levels out on the highway.

It uses a vacuum system and a vacuum modulator to manage boost. Best I've gotten on a trip is around 37MPG.
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  #29  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:23 AM
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I learned a turbo diesel is most effecient at 80% load but we hardly run our cars at 80% load. I'd question click to click as accurate. I sent you an email on my Cruise.
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  #30  
Old 10-17-2012, 08:34 AM
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The speed signal that the cruise uses is generated in the transmission's tailshaft. If you've got a 124/123/201 that is all mechanical up to the back of the speedometer. The 126 and others are electrical from the transmission.

The easiest place to pick up signal would probably be at the cruise amplifier. Pin 11. Square wave. Peak to peak voltage = battery voltage. I'm not sure how much current is provided so if you're hooking up to something that could draw current, I would pass the signal through a buffer of some sort.

LNG, I replied

The click-to-click method is about all i got. It seems to be fairly consistent on my 190E as for numbers..

Most of this is driving at 60-65mph or 70-75. Only like 10 miles of each fill-up is in town driving.

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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