Hey guys!
The motor mounts in my 1980 w123 300TD OM917 basically vaporized over time, and i got me some new ones that i am now on my way to put in.

Unfortunately because of this the whole motor has moved slightly and the oil pan has had contact with the frame. ive got a crack in the oil pan and im wondering firstly:
Does the oil pan come out from below? or do i have to raise the whole engine to get it off?
And what is the oil pan made of? It should be possibe to weld it if its the right material..?
Really appritiate all answers. Cheers

Are you referring to the upper or lower pan? The lower pan is less than $30 for a brand new one.

1980 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Wagon - Oil Circulation - Page 2

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

If you are speaking of the large Aluminum Oil Pan consensus seems to be that the Engine needs to come out.
Also the Aluminum Oil Pan serves as the lower mount for the Rear Main Bearing Seal. If you could get the Oil Pan out with the Engine let us say raised up there might be an issue fitting the Rear Main Seal properly or trying to get the Pan back on could mess with the Seal.
I have also read there is some sort of locating Pin that sticks into the Rear Main Seal that prevents you from yanking it out as you can on American Cars that use the Rope Type Rear Main Seals.

Note the location of the OP; Norway.
Some Members might be asking you what is being done there to increase performance on the 123s.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

... I've had both motor mounts totally vaporized in my 123's before, and never hit the pan. be sure and check the crossmember for damage from the center of the mount beating on it.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The motor mounts in my 1980 w123 300TD OM917 basically vaporized over time, and i got me some new ones that i am now on my way to put in.




Hey he says he has a OM917 !!
I would like to see that !!
Sounds like a 8 cylinder version of a 617 !


On a serious note. If its the upper pan the engine needs to come out to fix it. I dont know any one who can do vertical up TIG welding of alloy. I dont think it can be done.
If cleaned well, it may be possible to use JB weld or a 30mm X 10mm strip of high temp silicone to cover it up.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Additional info on this case:
The engine is a Euro 300 Turbodiesel OM617 and not a OM917, sorry for sloppy typing.
I live in Norway and parts are hard to come by, when they do they are very expensive. if its possible to fix it, i'll give it a shot.
Its the lower sub pan that has cracked. from what i gather here, its amuminum and only comes out with the whole enige.. does that sound right?

X2 on removing the engine to remove the upper pan. might be possible to remove it with engine in the car, but I wouldn`t want to do it.

I just removed the upper pan (engine on a stand) couple days ago.

Remove two 13mm bolts at turbo drain tube, rotate tube and pull off.
Remove one 13mm bolt for the dip stick tube bracket behind the spin-on filter.
Remove 2 13mm nuts at front of pan. one on each side.
Remove 16 5mm short bolts, (8 each side)
Remove 8 5mm long bolts in the deep holes (3 each side)
Remove 2 6mm bolts at the rear in the deep holes.

Hit side of pan at rear with a rubber mallet to break the seal.
Lift pan watching dip-stick tube as it clears a few lines.


All the bolts came out easily except for the 2 6mm. used some Valve Grinding compound to get the Bit to bite and not slip. came right out.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I think I have read on the Forum, that even if you can get it out while it is in the vehicle, you will never get it back on. I would do every thing possible to get that crack totally clean. I would use brake cleaner and air pressure, and get it as clean as humanly possible. Then I would work in a chunk of JB Weld stick type. Make a good wad of it and get in a position where you can really work it into the crack - then leave it set for 24 hours. It is wonderful stuff and it can take the heat.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

On the Turbodiesels here ther lower Pan is Steel and unbolts and is easily replaced. So I am not able to visulize a cracked Sub Pan that is made of Aluminum.
Are you able to post a picture?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel