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#16
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#17
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it sounds like he returned the car to the customer with a broken-off bleed screw. if he broke something, seems like he should be on the hook for repairing it.
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#18
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on the hook? no. however, he is obligated to offer repairs to the corroded part to the customer. old stuff breaks.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#19
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You couldn't just extract the old bleeder and replace? When I did the brakes on my old truck (a '92 Dodge Dakota), I didn't have anyone to help me with the bleeding. Instead, I bought a couple pair of those one-man bleeder valves for minimal cost (under $20 IIRC). You bleed like normal except when you crack them open they don't need to be closed between pedal pumps. They have a check valve in them that lets air/fluid out but not back in. They worked great for me. Anyone have issues with these? Back in the day when I had a '75 Celica that needed new calipers, I did the cheapest, no-help-required method possible to bleed the brakes - gravity bleed. I cracked all four bleeder valves, topped up the fluid, and let the car sit overnight. Woke up, tightened the valves, and presto, perfectly bled brake system.
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1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k - Daily Duty 1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k - "Recommended for competition events only" |
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