Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

Pulled #1 injektor. Nozzle has an extended tip, with squared edges, with a orifice in the end.

My spare injektor, from a running 617.952, has a rounded tip, not nearly as extended.

Different design it would seem???

68,000 mile injektors built in 1997 by me on the RIGHT

Known good used injektor from 617.952 on the LEFT

What is the difference and does the design really make a difference?????

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

Pulled #1 injektor. Nozzle has an extended tip, with squared edges, with a orifice in the end.

My spare injektor, from a running 617.952, has a rounded tip, not nearly as extended.

Different design it would seem???

68,000 mile injektors built in 1997 by me on the RIGHT

Known good used injektor from 617.952 on the LEFT

What is the difference and does the design really make a difference?????

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

OK!

No vise here at our condo, so I found an old Hazet breaker handle, which consists of a piece of round stock with a sliding 1/2" drive head attached. I put a 6" extension on this and laid it flat on the floor, rested my knees on the breaker handle and broke the injektors loose with a 22mm wrench. After a brief cleaning and inspection, I assembled them in like fashion.

Got the used injektors installed and picked up an injektor 'cackle' on #4 zylinder that wasn't there before.

HOWEVER,

Overall, the engine is so much smoother, both at idle and just above idle that I am shocked. The exhaust used to have a very rythmic, albeit slight 'puff-puff-puff' feel to the exhaust which is totally gone now.

Additionally, the engine rocked a little just above idle, from about 1000 to 1500 rpm and that to is now totally gone.

I am sending the injektors that I pulled to Greazzer for calibration, so these Pik-N-Pull units are just temporary.

So, with a set of 'junk' injektors, where the pop pressures are unknown, the overall smoothness of the engine is quite remarkable, although it is a bit noisier than it was with the old (2100 psi) injektors. I think this is due to a slight advance due to lower opening pressures.

Not a bad afternoon project!!!!

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

So far, sounds like a Freightliner at idle, but has a much smoother idle overall, less smoke and good power, of course, at 14.7 psi of boost and 3 turns CCW + 3.0mm of shims under the ALDA, you are going to have a little power...:-)

Seems like it is getting better mpg. I don't have my mileage figures just eyt, but wil post them later this week....

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

Well, it would seem that the old IP in my 300SD is saying goodbye. I guess with roughly 1,309,000 miles on the pump itself, I cannot blame it.

At 1, 244,000 I rebuilt this engine/transmission complete. Liners, pistons, cam, followers, valves, guides, even the bushing for the IP drive were replaced. The idle was great on the old IP until about 1,275,000 when I picked up a shake at idle. My 617.950 IP was an early model without a rack damper, so I installed a rear plate and damper which smoothed things right out.

Recently, I started picking up this intermittent shake at idle that would come and go, and if I lay my foot on the throttle, it will go away. I had a new rack damper in the package, so I installed it earlier this week. I started the engine with the damper loose and it almost rocked itself out of the car!

A full turn of the damper after contact smoothed the engine right out, which is a bit much, since usually, on a good IP, 1 flat will do the job.

I asked in a previous post for some So Cal shops that are familiar with our pumps. To that end, I wanted to ask what you gentlemen are actually paying to have a pump refurbished.

I am looking at three options at present:

1. Lower mileage used IP

2. Replacing all the wear parts myself and then paying for the calibration

3. Having the rebuild and recalibration done by a shop

Naturally, cost will dictate, to a large degree, my course of action, but your input is valued.

Thanks, Robert