Well after 235K miles of driving the '99, I had an unfortunate accident. In stop & go traffic, the driver in front of me stopped quickly, and I did not. My brakes nosedived the frt end under the small SUV bumper.
Fortunately no one was hurt, as we were crawling.

Anyway I need to ask if any one here has a lead on a hood & grille. The cross member above the radiator is pushed back, but repairable. No radiator damage, although I need a fan clutch.

All in all no big setback, but I would like to get this repaired & back on the road. I do have the '83 300D till then.

Thanks for anyone's assistance !!!

Gary

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__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

I know a yard here in CO that has at least 2 and perhaps 3 good 210's. I'll be there on Wed. the 24. I have personally purchased many 210 parts from them and they are quite reasonable. However I suspect the shipping to NJ could be the deal killer. The replacement parts are readly available on line and Ebay, although not genuine MB. Email me if you would like to get in touch with them.

check prices including here for new grills. I was surprised.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

car-part.com is a online database of participating salvage yards. Search around a bit and you can get one in the correct color.

Thanks guys, I have a line on a hood/grille for $350, not new, but not ruff. I will check that out. $750 from dealer with proper paint, for both, which I thought that was not too bad, higher than where I would like to be.
I need to further disassemble, the inboard ears are broken from both headlight housings. I think that is it.

Thanks for the info. I kinda jumped the gun posting without calling around.

There was a E300TD with a broken spring perch in Toms River, a '98 black IIRC posted on the board. I have not seen that on my CL searchs.

__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

Here are a few ( I didn't check NY )

1999
Hood
Mercedes E Class E300D WHITE,WITH GRILLE 120614 $150 Drive Line Auto Parts USA-PA(Philadelphia) Request_Quote 1-888-213-3522

1997
Hood
Mercedes E Class E320 WHITE,4 DR,E320 1.0HR NIQ 000 C
down
grade
hrs 110145 $100
undmg JC Auto Salvage USA-PA(Philadelphia) Request_Quote 215-739-9616 / 877-233-0049

1996
Hood
Mercedes E Class E320 1 DING UP WHITE 707175 $Call B and M King George Auto Parts USA-MD(Clinton) Request_Quote 1-800-333-2621

1999
Hood
Mercedes E Class E320 WHITE 000 A
0 707311 $Call B and M King George Auto Parts USA-MD(Clinton) Request_Quote 1-800-333-2621

97 SL320,
Thanks a bunch, I will be on he phone tues sourcing. I also need to find the small fluid leak at the accident, but not since. It was a small continuous dribble. I drove home 70 miles, only replaced a qt. of antifreeze. Stopped along the way, no leaks. I need to identify.

Again, Thanks Guys for both info & support ! !

__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

You are welcome. On the hoods, I did not note any non white hoods. Also, have a look on craigslist as these cars are bound to pop up.

Check the rad side tanks, they are crimped on with a gasket between the tank and rad header. The gaskets shrink with age so if the side tanks get flexed, a leak can develop.

Also

Well I finally got a color correct replacement hood @ $150 in Phila. Great price, dangerous 'hood.
Thanks 97 SL320 !!!

I replaced the fan clutch, and upon reinstallation, the fan was hitting the front face of the alt pulley. I dunno what is up, but a small washer shim between the clutch & fan corrected.(bandaid)

The inner mounting "ears" of the headlight assemblies have broken. Without replacing the housings, Any suggestions to secure ?? I know the adjustment is acomplished with these, but kinda on a budget here.

Thanks

__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

Cool, it is always good to find color correct parts.

On the fan clutch, was it changed due to being bent?

Does this engine use a fan mount like a M104 gas 6 cyl uses? ( The fan is mounted to a bearing then a housing holds a bearing )

If the fan clutch took a hit, it may have pushed the bearing back in the housing or the fan hub back on the bearing. Take a look at the fan pulley, see if the belt has to bend back a bit. Also take a straight edge from the fan pulley to the next pulley and see if it is out of line.

If it is out of line and the mount isn't cracked, I'd end up shimming the fan mount bracket or put a shim behind the pulley so everything moves out. You could use a puller to bring the hub forward and / or remove the mount and press the bearing forward but this places more movement on the press fit parts and they might be on the loose side.

The other issue with the fan bearing taking a axial crash hit is that the bearing surface might be brinelled ( balls have dented the race ) . In the short term it may be quiet, but it might get noisy as time progresses. Was the bearing smooth to turn?

Fixing the ears can be done with epoxy such as J B Weld , but some plastics have low surface energy ( Tefflon for example ) and epoxy won't work so well unless there is a mechanical means of interlocking the epoxy to the surface. Take a look on the part for a plastic type code. Look for something in the format of > ABS < . 3M does make adhesive for low energy plastics but, it might be hard to get.

Look up Motor Guard Plastic Repair. They make a hot staple kit ( ~ $ 100 ) that fits on a spot welder gun. I'm realy tempted to make a low voltage / high current power supply to use it as a stand alone tool. Others make similar kits as well.

If you use the hot staple repair, be sure to seal the crack with epoxy to prevent water from entering.

Another thing with the fan, was the fan bolted to the clutch in the correct direction?

If it was flipped over it might cause a rub problem.

Where is the inner grill and the aux fans? I can't see them in the photo. Maybe too dark.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

It was the inner fan, not the aux. The original fan clutch must have been hit by the rad. I could not remove it without prying, and that caused the clutch to lose it;s fluid getting it home.

The pulleys are lined up (square) and the belt is riding true.
The fan is installed with the "front" towards the front. I for the life of me do not understand why the interference. Actually, after the accident, I drove it without the fan noise. I have alot of adrenilin going, but I would have remembered. I stopped to pull the grille out, and I "straightened" the fan/clutch, then the noise. I believe, the fan might have been mechanically stopped. I was driving 55, with ambient of 50 deg. Temps never rose over the normal.

I will see what I can fabricate with the headlight ear. Most of the small plastic parts are gone. If not I will be looking to locate replacement assemblies.

Thanks All !!

__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW