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cv boots
Back in High School in the 70s I drove VWs. They use to make split cv boots that could be rivited or bolted on. Seemed to work well on my VWs and I drove them hard. Has anyone had any experinces using them on MBs and are they even available? After watching a video of how top do the one piece I'm not sure I have the expertice for that job. Also it is building up alot of rpm before it will shift 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I can let up alittle on the gas then give it more and it will shift at lower rpm. Does this sound like a vac problem or something else? Ifsomething else how do I go about diagnosing it?
Thanks, Mark |
#2
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There used to be a seller on ebay who sold Split Boots for a bunch of different Cars and I ask Him to contact his supplier and see if there was a boot suitable for W123 Mercedes. He said no. Als the original Axles are filled with Oil and some people want to put Oil in instead of Grease making the Split Boots Not suitable for that. This year I replaced the 4 Boots on My Axles. I tried 2 Tools. The Astro Pneumatic CV Boot Installer Cone buy itself (without using the Tongs that Come with it) it worked. I did have to enlarge the ID of the Cone to get it to side over the Axle Can. I did it Myself and I could not have done it without having the Axle in a Vice. And, it took some strength and in My case generic STP as a lube. If you don't have a Vice you are going to need someone to hold it upright and supported well. I have a feeling that the Cone works better than the ATF Funnel. Also if you happen to have Annular Axles (it bolts together near the Differential) you just need to take apart the end with the Bolts to install the Boot. Transmission Vacuum and adjustments http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20242.html
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#3
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plus if you do have a torn boot, sealing it back up with a split boot is foolish, as you'd be sealing in all the dirt and grit its picked up from the road, and the joint will fail in short order. any time you have a torn boot, you really need to clean and repack the affected cv joint if you want it to last. buy two new boots (no sense in replacing just the one, the labor is same to do both), buy two new circlips for the ends of the axle, buy good moly cv grease, and make sure you have the correct socket (allen head or triple-square, depending) for your axles. also be sure to use some loctite and torque the axle bolts to the correct value when re-installing. a torque wrench is required. |
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I used a Solvent Gun/Sprayer and hosed out the CV Joint with that, let it dry a day and packed it with grease and re-booted. So it can be done. However, I am a person who uses Gasket Sealant on things. I cannot remember exactly what I used but there is no doubt I used something on the Split Joint besides what was supposed to keep it close. Before I worked as a Mechanic I was a Wheeled Vehicle Mechanic in the Army Reserve. On the one 2-1/12 Ton Truck I changed a Boot on. The Boot was a Spit one and the Split was held together with a Zipper (Ya a Zipper!) and the kit came with a tube of Sealant that you spread over the outside of the Zipper to make it Water/Grease Proof. Note: When I was on Active Duty in the Army I was a Medic. After I got out of the Army I went to a Trade School and took Diesel Mechanics. While I was in Trade School I joined the Army Reserve but as a Wheel Vehicle Mechanic (they were supposed to re-train Me).
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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I haven't seen a split boot in years...didn't even know they made them anymore.
I think with FWD being so dominant now that and the availability of complete CV axles for cheap kinda made the split boots extinct.
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1987 300TDT 1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap 1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5 |
#6
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Back to the tie wraps and the plastic carrier bags then!!!!!!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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I found these 2 articles on split boots and why they are not so good.
The stone age "split boot." | Car Talk Split Boots for CV Axles Explained - Raxles Inc. I do remembering buy some for a VW I had years ago, but don`t remember how they worked out. seems like where the 2 piece come together, they wouldn`t flex as well as a all one piece boot would. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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^^^^Oh yeah they're crap without a doubt - they are really only a get that car sold option...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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