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  #31  
Old 11-01-2012, 04:16 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
OK ... I think flushing and replacing the tranny fluid will get the old girl humming again. Where did you buy the shim at ?
It came between the flywheel and crank on an automatic equipped 123 car, I believe.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #32  
Old 11-01-2012, 04:39 PM
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I have not seen any publication on the correcting the added depth from the machining process with shims on the backside. Although it does seem logical to correct that distance, but to use a shim could pose a problem with enough flywheel bolt depth and the alignment of the starter gear to the ring gear.
It would seem to me a shim between the fork and throwout bearing or even finding a slightly taller throw out bearing would be the best solution.


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  #33  
Old 11-01-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I don't know how much was skimmed. Like I said we didn't realize it mattered so my machinist just took enough to clean up the flywheel. Next one I have planed I plan to figure all that out. I have a ring with the twelve bolt holes in it I believe to be from an automatic equipped car which I plan to have planed but first I will have to figure out how thick the flywheel is supposed to be and measure that.
So thats why the clutch engagement is so close to the floor on my TD now, I didn't know that either, thanks Tom. I just figured I needed to crawl up under there and adjust the eccentric. I had Napa take a little off my F/W, Good news that the pedal comes up with ware instead or gets closer to the floor. Thanks again
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  #34  
Old 11-01-2012, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
I have not seen any publication on the correcting the added depth from the machining process with shims on the backside. Although it does seem logical to correct that distance, but to use a shim could pose a problem with enough flywheel bolt depth and the alignment of the starter gear to the ring gear.
It would seem to me a shim between the fork and throwout bearing or even finding a slightly taller throw out bearing would be the best solution.
I had my flywheel machined and didn't notice this, but assuming this became a problem I would weld a shim to the fork.
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  #35  
Old 11-01-2012, 08:57 PM
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Location: 2021 - The Great Florida Count-down
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THANK YOU EVERYONE !!! I drained the rich, gooey chocolate syrup out of the trans, flushed with Dexron, drove it a few miles, and then added the good stuff. Now, she shifts much better ! It does have a mechanical problem from shifting from 3rd to 2nd, but I can live with that ... right now. Got much bigger mechanical and safety problems to tackle before I can make this my DD. However, thanks for the info and posts !!!!

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