oil pump chain broke on 86 300sdl ???? how to replace it ??? - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

netpro · #61 01-11-2013, 02:08 AM

fyi i tried to buy that manual you mentioned but cannot since it only accepts US address and im from canada ... go figure .... anyone know what kinda bolt that is in the center of the ip bolt ... i tried to order that bolt from mercedes dealer but they said we cant order it anymore which seems strange to me

netpro · #62 01-11-2013, 09:20 PM

any idea why ??? i finally got all the new parts i needed

but something strange is happening ..... WITHOUT the new timing chain installed .....yet ( ifigured it would be easier this way ) i found TDC on cyl 1 .... then installed and rotated the camshaft marks on the gear with the tower with motor on TDC ( then i was going to align the ip and install the chain , but i didnt get that far ) but for some strange reason i cant rotate the motor ( by hand ) very far and it jams .... UNTIL i loosen off the bolts holding down the camshaft ...then i can turn it again ....... what the ??? that doesnt sound good ... what's up ... i dont even se any way possible to install the camshaft upside down persay ... any ideas ...

Ozarkdude · #63 01-11-2013, 09:44 PM

You need to proceed very carefully. We know your chain jumped, but we dont know how far. When its in correct time there is nothing to worry about. But there is NOT enough room for either of the valves to open with the piston at TDC. If you turn the engine into an open valve (which can happen when it jumps time), its going to jam, and if you force it, somethings going to break. Which I will be very surprised if youve escaped, seeing as you already saw you broke the cam at the pin hole, and that it was running when whatever let go, let go.

It may be possibly to loosen all the valve adjustment out to rotate it, and, I cant recall, but it seemed there was a way to remove the rocker arms? Might be easier to loosen the cam towers. Whatever, you need to get all the valves closed so you can turn the engine to TDC, with IP pointer in the window, and then put the cam in time. Then you can do a leakdown or compression test, and figure out if you still have a motor.

netpro · #64 01-18-2013, 12:20 PM

hey guys once again thanks for all the helpful advice just wanted to let you know i did a compression test on the motor ( bought the $149.00 kit from harbour freight ) worked great ..... and i was shocked by the numbers better than i thought 5 cyls @ 400 psi ...one @ 360 .... that dispells any notion of bent anything imo wheeeeeeeeeeew gotta run ...hopefully will get it running in next few days

damn bolt for injector pump cost me $25.00 from mercedes eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek

barry12345 · #65 01-24-2013, 11:23 PM

Bump. He still has a couple of issues but the engine is capable of and has been running. I am recomending he post more on this thread so more people can share and suggest things. This is a 603 and things like knowing how to get the air bubbles out of the cooling system to get circulation are beyond my limited abilities and experiences. You almost have had to own one to be really sure of some of the engines general charactaristics. I have not yet owned one.

barry12345 · #66 01-30-2013, 10:28 PM

Bump, I hope he posts again. The last major problem seems to be solved. There was little to no oil presssure with a brand new oil pump. He can provide the details if he wishes. Fortunatly I did not lead him off on any wild goose chases from the start of the issue to the basic conclusion. He is one persistant guy and that was required in this case. Fortunatly I spotted this tendency earlier on.

These mental somewhat complex long distance telephone repair assists can be involved. Especially when you have never owned a 603 engine or worked on them. I am just happy that it all worked out well for him so far. From my perspective it was interesting. One thing never totally answered yet was the cause of all this.

I have suggested that he inspect his old vacuum pump and grab a good used one of the improved design that has the closed bearing as a preventative measure.

netpro · #67 02-14-2013, 09:47 PM

i'm back and still having problems .... need some advice

whunter · #68 02-14-2013, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netpro

i'm back and still having problems .... need some advice

Talking on the phone now.

Specialized Indicator for IP Timing

It is in the tool rental program.
Tool Rental Master Member List

.

whunter · #69 02-14-2013, 09:55 PM

Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar, and Nailing. LINK THREAD
Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar, and Nailing. LINK THREAD

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whunter · #70 02-14-2013, 10:02 PM

There is a serious possibility the injectors got grime - slime in them while working on vehicle + the injector pintles may have been damaged.

NO blame, simply a lack of data.

FYI ALL members: Cap the injectors and delivery valves ANY time the steel lines are removed, or risk trash entering the injection system.

.

barry12345 · #71 02-15-2013, 10:27 AM

Thanks for chiming in Mr.Hunter. It would be good if this was back on site. There are remaining issues on verification of the injection pump timing as well. This is a 603 engine.

Unfortunatly he could not achieve true element cut off for the drip test. My guess is there might be some wear in the number one element bore and piston if factual. He has been engaged in quite a struggle with this area.

The general compression of the engine is quite good so it is worth pursuing and the oil pressure is now excellant.

whunter · #72 09-30-2013, 12:11 PM

for a new owner

ah-kay · #73 09-30-2013, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

The oil pump chain snapped while it was doing 75+mph on the freeway. The engine is now a door stop. I will get to it but do not know when. I hope your engine is not damaged when it is starved of oil.

If I read all the posts correctly, I think the oil pan needs to come off to replace the chain. You also need a chain crimper to crimp the master link.

Good luck.

This is what I posted when the oil chain snapped in July 2012. I am happy to report that the car is running again. The engine seized and the picture showed what happened to the rod bearings. Metal shavings everywhere. I knew it would run again one day and now it is a reality. I opened up the engine and found minimal damage. The 3 rod bearings are kaputt, shown here. The other 3 set are relatively unscathed. Cylinder 1 and #1 crank rod journal was badly scarred but the rest is relatively OK. This is what I do to bring the engine back from the brink. It was all done with block in engine.

1) Replace all rod and main bearings. I got them from JY.
2) Replace all piston rings but with new oil control rings. Again from JY.
3) Honed cylinder 1 as it was scarred bad. Replace #1 piston. The other cylinders were lightly honed.
4) Polished the crank rod journals. Rod journal #1 was scarred bad and was oval-ished. I shim it by 1/1000" when I bolted the rod back on.
5) All cylinder have compression over 300psi when cold.
6) New oil chain and re-crimp. it is easy to replace once the oil pan is removed.
7) Buttoned everything together and it started right up and running smooth but smoked a lot.
8) Turbo was probably damaged when it lacked oil so I replaced it. The smoking is gone.

I learned a lot in the process. It was fun but VERY time consuming. I did it slowly and in between my other commitments so it is OK. The motto is never give up on an engine as the OM603 is very robust, probably same for the OM617. Did 150 miles so far and counting but the jury is still out so to speak. However, I have no reason to doubt the fix.

LNGfish · #74 10-02-2013, 02:46 PM

Amazing job!