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  #1  
Old 11-08-2012, 10:34 PM
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Help with replacing tranny on 1995 E300D

I am under the gun to get the transmission replaced in this E300D. I leave for Europe in 9 days for my spine surgery. I wont be able to do much physical work for at least 6 months( one level fusion, two level artificial disc replacement) so I need to get this done this week. I picked up a used one from another member of this forum. He said it had about 68,000 miles on it.

Is there anything I really need to be careful of?

Are there any parts that should be replaced while I have the tranny out of the car? ie. Flex plates etc?

Does anyone know of any website that has information and help with replacing this model transmission?

Are there any tools that I MUST have to get this job completed?

Any idea on how long it should take two people to get this done?

Thanks again

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  #2  
Old 11-08-2012, 11:39 PM
SDL SDL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
I am under the gun to get the transmission replaced in this E300D. I leave for Europe in 9 days for my spine surgery. I wont be able to do much physical work for at least 6 months( one level fusion, two level artificial disc replacement) so I need to get this done this week. I picked up a used one from another member of this forum. He said it had about 68,000 miles on it.

Is there anything I really need to be careful of?

Are there any parts that should be replaced while I have the tranny out of the car? ie. Flex plates etc?

Does anyone know of any website that has information and help with replacing this model transmission?

Are there any tools that I MUST have to get this job completed?

Any idea on how long it should take two people to get this done?

Thanks again

You will need a 19 mm flex/swivel socket for the top couple bolts that secure the tranny to the block, you will need about 3' of extensions to reach from behind the tranny tail piece to the front of the tranny where the bolts are. An impact gun is very good to have but it can be done with a breaker bar'ratchet it's just hard to keep the socket on the bolts and torque the breaker bar/ratchet at the same time.
If you don't have a shop with a lift and a tall tranny jack you will need either a tranny jack from Harbor Freight or at least an adapter that fits onto a floor jack. The trany is heavy and unwieldy, when removing and reinstalling you want to minimize it hanging on its input shaft.



There is a rubber O-ring seal on the tranny dipstick tube that you should have new when you install the tranny.
Drain the tranny and the torque converter, 5 mm Allen head drain plug bolts, both use a copper crush seal washer so get new washers.



Two 19 mm banjo bolts for the tranny fluid cooler lines, two large diameter aluminum crush washers are used to seal those to the tranny.



Don't forget the electrical connection on the tranny, on the upshift solenoid, and the speedo cable or wire, the shifter rod should be disconnected at both ends and removed completely out of the way. There will never be a better time to replace the shifter rod's plastic bushings.



Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate through the hole (the plastic plug/cover for this hole might be missing or damaged and it usually gets damaged removing it so order a new one ahead of time) in the oil pan, there are 3 pairs of bolts that secure them together.15 mm bolts I think.
There is an exhaust hanger that bolts to the tranny that will need to be removed, there are rubber bushings that will likely be rotten or gone so have new ones, you may have a U bolt clamp that goes around the exhast pipe attached to it, be prepared to replace that if it doesn't come off intact.



You'll want to remove the drive shaft completely so you have room to work, think about if you'll need new flex joints, new drive shaft bearing carrier, or any exhaust gaskets or hangers if you need the exhaust lowered or removed to get to the drive shaft for removal.



Once you get everything disconnected and unbolted support the tranny so that it's almost level and then you can try to pull it towards the rear, usually it will move a 1/4” or so then you cam start to lever it using a screw driver or pry bar bit by bit backwards, be mindful that the torque converter is only slip fit onto the tranny input shaft so it could fall off if you yank the tranny backwards and it tilts downward at the front!



Often times the nose of the torque converter which fits into the hole at the center of the flex plate will be stuck kind of hard, once you get some space use a large pry bar to get up between the flex plate and the front of the torque converter and pry them apart moving the pry tool from one side of the nose to the other. The nose fits about ¾' – 1” into the flex plate, on the back side the torque converter slides about 2 – 3” onto the tyranny input shaft.
When your reinstalling the tranny is when the jack/tranny adapter are important, raise it up into the tunnel and use the fine tilt adjustments to level the tranny. Mak certain that the torque converter has been assembled correctly onto the tranny input shaft, there are interlocking cutouts on both that should mesh together. Before you get ready to lift the tranny make sure things are assembled correctly and use some wire or ductape to keep it in place together as you put the tranny on the jack and lift it up into position, then remove the tape or wire before you push the tranny back into place onto the engine.



Use a wire brush in a drill or something similar to clean up any rust dirt or corrosion on the nose of the torque converter and the hole in the flex plate where it fits, test fit the torque converter into that hole and make sure it goes in easily before starting to reinstall the tranny. Apply a bit of grease to both. You want it to fit with no problem rather than find yourself fighting to squeeze it into place while maneuvering it attached to the 125 lb tranny.



Have fun it's pretty straight forward and simple but it's still a challenge because of where it is and how large and heavy it is, having someone to help is a good idea. It will take almost a day because you want to be careful and methodical getting things apart and back together without things like broken parts or stripped nut or bolts.
I would get the replacement installed, then make sure it drives first and then worry about any fluid and filter change, just because I like to have one variable to figure out at a time if something things don't work.
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  #3  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:00 AM
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Thanks brother! I really appreciate your advice.
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  #4  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:33 AM
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The used tranny just arrived. The guy from Peachparts said it was off a 1995 E300D. However the numbers I get off this transmission is 126 271 14 01 and off one of the piston casing 126 277 09 03

Is this the correct tranny or did the guy lie to me? Im not sure if you are around so Im going to ask the question to the forum, thanks again
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  #5  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:42 AM
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SDL the tranny is stamped 722.303. Will this fit my 1995 E300D?
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:54 AM
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I have a transmission from a 95 E300D in my garage and the numbers are different my numbers are 124 270 35 02 722 435 0 3715310 I think the guy lie to you
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  #7  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:25 PM
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It will fit but the 722 303 doesn't have the hole for the speedometer cable the like the 722 435
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:51 PM
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I thought I could trust a guy that says he is a member of this forum. This totally screws me. I had less than a wek to get this installed. After that it will over 9 months before I can do anything!
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:14 PM
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Im not a good enough mechanic to deal with differences between years. I need the tranny that was built specifically for a 1995 E300D and hopefully this transaction was a huge miscommunication. IM not sure what a 95 tranny with 68,000 miles looks like but this looked alot older with alot more miles.
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:27 PM
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I've never seen a 722.435 but I have seen a 722.303 - which does at least have an electronic speedo cable.

Looking at the Russian EPC on EverythingBenz - Mercedes-Benz Forum and Web Search Using Google it looks like the starter is positioned on the left hand side of the car - is that the case? The starter is on the right hand side of the car for an OM617 / 722.303 combination...

Can you say whether you have a W210 or a W124? 1995 seems to be a change over year...
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:28 PM
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Different tack =>

What's wrong with the (original?) transmission that is fitted to the car at the moment?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:29 PM
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This is definitely a w124, not sure which side the starter is my wife has the car. Only the reverse is screwed up right now.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:34 PM
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The current transmission has a problem with its reverse. When put in reverse and within a second or two the tranny will lock like someone applied the parking brake hard. THe shop said it would be a minimum of $1400 and the tranny would need to come out to locate the problem. I was not going to pay this amount with a bill that may go alot higher.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:43 PM
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Have you or the shop checked the selector lever linkage?

You are looking for worn bushings - incorrect adjustment.

(I don't want to sound like I'm being a smart arse - I'm just starting with the basics)

Do you think the transmission could actually be in park when this happens?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:47 PM
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No I haven't, in my condition I cant do a hell of alot. The tranny shop said something inside is binding which is why I looked for a replacement. Maybe while its sitting in my garage in nine monthsI can check things out. At this time I have not other choice.

BTW it never came to my mind that you were being a smart arse, I appreciate any advice, I just don't have the time and inclination at this point to follow it up.

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