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  #16  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:47 PM
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On the information supplied I'm assuming you've got a W124.131 with an OM606.910 engine with the starter on the left hand side of the car; if this is the case => to make a 722.303 fit you'll need to have to do a lot of work - as I mentioned before the starter bump is on the other side of the car on a 722.303 OM617 combination. I'm not sure if anyone would bother. It isn't a simple bolt out bolt in operation.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #17  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
No I haven't, in my condition I cant do a hell of alot. The tranny shop said something inside is binding which is why I looked for a replacement. Maybe while its sitting in my garage in nine monthsI can check things out. At this time I have not other choice.

BTW it never came to my mind that you were being a smart arse, I appreciate any advice, I just don't have the time and inclination at this point to follow it up.
I think you need to get a second opinion - may be a forum member near to you can help?

I'd help but I guess you don't live near to me!

The thing in your favour (to a certain degree) is that if the reverse B3 "clutch" pack is bust it is at least at the front of the transmission - easy to get to - that and that alone could be changed. The cost of the friction parts is negligible but the labour costs will be high; and I guess the $1400 quote involves more full rebuild rather than just the B3 renew.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:52 PM
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WHat I do is put it in reverse then quickly shift to neutral then back to reverse etc etc etc. The key is getting enough momentum to get the car moving. I was told this will not be good to the overall tranny so Im not sure how long things will stay like this. Need to drive 500 miles round trip since my daughters Volleyball team made it to the Sectionals. Cant miss these events in your child's life.
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
WHat I do is put it in reverse then quickly shift to neutral then back to reverse etc etc etc. The key is getting enough momentum to get the car moving. I was told this will not be good to the overall tranny so Im not sure how long things will stay like this. Need to drive 500 miles round trip since my daughters Volleyball team made it to the Sectionals. Cant miss these events in your child's life.
Well how often do you need reverse?

From now on start the car in neutral and push it if you have to go backwards...

...mad I know but it could be that or hire a car for the important trip...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2012, 06:17 PM
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Do the two transmissions look like the following? In the first pic it shows the 722.4 trans on top and the 722.3 trans on bottom. I've successfully converted my '90 300D 2.5T which originally came with a 722.4 like yours over to a 722.3, but it takes a fair amount of work and spare parts to swap.






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  #21  
Old 11-09-2012, 06:41 PM
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I just dont have the time, I have less than one week to get this done before I have to leave.
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2012, 07:06 PM
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I did this in a couple days, but of course I had all the parts on hand. Absent that, I think you need to locate an exact duplicate of your original trans.
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:03 PM
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Would you mind telling me what you had to do to make the one transmission work like the other one? What modifications and parts were required etc? NIce job!
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  #24  
Old 11-10-2012, 12:12 PM
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Pretty much everything need to know can be found in this thread.


Here's a list of 722.3 parts needed for this swap:
  • NSS cable
  • Dipstick tube + dipstick
  • Shift rod
  • Cooler lines
  • Torque converter
  • *optional complete driveshaft and diff yoke

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