The seller is going to drive over to my house, so I'll be able to put it up on ramps and get a good look at what's going on. I'll definitely be looking at the oil pan gasket since that's a PITA to change. He said that he just had the belt tensioner and water pump changed. I'll do a cooling system pressure check since the water pump replacement makes me think that he might have gotten the engine hot enough to damage the gasket. Anything else? It's a 1986 model which from what I've read is better than the '84 and '85. Thanks

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'81 300SD

My '85 has been a reliable cheap commuter. After delivery valve seal replacement and one of the hard fuel lines that was leaking, the motor has been trouble free. Many of the creature comforts are failing first...climate control, SRS, heater blower motor, (2) electric windows, cruise control, clock, radio antenna, steering componets, odometer, door checks. Most of these are DIY repairs and not overly expensive and several I've already resolved. Probably not out of line with an approaching 30 year old car. If the little things really bug you then I'd advise you to pass. All depends on your expectations.

5-speeds are preferable to automatics as the OD gear keeps the highway RPM's in a better range.

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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

Look at all the bushings in the rear suspension links. There are 8 on each side, I think. If the rubber is all rotten, the system needs to be disassembled and new bushings pressed into the metal parts.

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1st MBz: 1982 300SD
2nd MBz: 1987 300SDL
3rd MBz: 1995 S420
4th MBz: 1987 190DT
5th MBz: 1984 300SD w/1983 300DT engine
6th MBz: 1999 C230k I'm 3rd owner, got it w/57,235 miles.
and manages Mom's 2007 R320 CDI

Suspention ,half shafts and any leaks ,be sure to look carefully at the top of the injection pump for fuel ,this is usually o-rings seeping ,it requires a special socket for removal and install but can be a diy project if it exists.All your fuel line supports need to be in place also ,youll certain to have fuel line leaks if this are not present.

Thanks guys. Up to how many PSI can I test the cooling system? I think that it's around 14 -16, but I'm not sure.

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'81 300SD

Turn the cap and leave it in place with the engine running. It should kind of dance around a bit not blow off. Watch for blue smoke when over running downhill and coming to a stop. If it does there is too much blowby. The 2.5 NA seem prone to burning oil but the 2.5 turbo does not seem to have this problem. Put the trans in park then shift into reverse and start counting one thousand two thousand three thousand. If you get to three before it clunks into gear the trans is wornish. Watch for a flare on each shift , a slight increase in engine speed before it clunks into gear It takes a while to build up pressure but not that long. Look for oil residue or black crud in the rad overflow tank a sign of head gasket problems, Look for rusted out rear jacking points. look under the battery for significant rust. Check all windows actually go up and down, Check that power seats go every which way they should both sides of the car. check that climate control actually controls the fan speed, check that the AC compressor actually kicks in when you punch the defrost button actually look under the hood to see it working. Check that the sunroof opens and closes evenly with no misalignment of the panel. check the electric locks work from all the doors and the trunk. Check that it only has one key for all the doors. Check that the body gap on all doors and the hood and trunk are evenly spaced. Check the back door handles actually work from the inside and outside. Check the drivers rear seat mounts to the body for signs of rust. Check that the heater actually works and is not bypassed. Check the passenger footwell for signs of leaking antifreeze actually lift the carpets on both sides of the front seats to look for rust or coolant. cover the end of the muffler with you hand or a rag to see if it builds up pressure. When you drive the car try out the cruise to see it works and smoothly.
I have been burnt by everyone of these suggestions some are more expensive to fix than others. It shouldn't take more than 10 mins to check them all. Print this list and check off as you go. Owners may not be sure of things or they may not want to reveal that they do know what is wrong. I prefer to verify for myself rather than taking someones word for anything.
Cheers and good luck,

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It's always something simple
91 300D 603.960 (from japan) 194K
92 Toyota Diesel Landcruiser HDJ81-t 116K
02 Golf TDI new head courtesy of PO
87 300D
97 BMW 525 TDS Wagon 5spd
bunch of Onan and other diesel generators

So what happened here?

The condition of the interior and exterior was laughable. The engine and transmission felt great though. This car is exactly like the 240D I picked up for $300.00 at the Salvation Army 10 years ago. Back then I had more time and energy for a restoration. I like the feel of the OM602, but this car looks like a daunting project.

On the flip side, I also looked at a '87 190E 2.3 with a 5spd. The body and interior are very nice, but the engine won't hold idle. If CA wasn't so tough on diesels, the OM602 would make the 190E into a nice car.

BTW, does anyone know how to remove an electronic driver's seat if it's stuck all the way back with no access to the rear bolts? When I tried the switch, the seat would jerk a little bit so I think there is something going on with the track. This is for the 190E I looked at.

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'81 300SD