SOLD: 1980 Mercedes W123 240D – China blue
 

For Sale: 1980 Mercedes W123 240D – China blue
Features: 4 speed manual transmission, power steering, brakes, AM/FM cassette (unknown if cassette works), desirable manual control heater, (no AC) reclining front seats, recent new tires including spare, fog lights, “euro headlights”, arm rest (front & rear) front door pockets, dual mirrors, day night mirror, Manual windows

This is a very safe car for a beginning driver. This car is about as basic as you could get a Mercedes-Benz in the USA. This car is very robust and has been sorted out. This car is well known to be one of the safest cars to be in. The design was well ahead of its time as far as being able to withstand severe accidents. This is the Mercedes that they built their reputation on. Production of the W123 chassis started in 1975 with delivery in the USA in 1977. Production ended of the W123 at the end of the 1985 model year. 2.6 million W123s were built. This means a good supply of parts.

This car has adequate engine power. It will go all day long at 70 mph. It’s top speed is said to be around 85 mph (not tested). This car is solid and is without any major structural rust issues. The body panels look fairly straight, but there are some light side swipe marks on the passenger side. There is some rust on the rear of the front fenders (lower edge above sill), bubbling on the left side of the deck lid, and inner drivers door lower rust. (see comment below about available replacement parts) The sills and jack points as well as the underbody are all very solid!

W. Hunter and I have refurbished, replaced, and repaired multiple components since January, 2011 to get the car sorted out and brought back to being a reliable daily driver car. I have recently taken the car on several MBCA club outings including over 100 miles on a color tour without any issues. I drive it almost daily and it starts quickly even when it is cold. Usually it only takes 1 glow cycle in the cold.

These are the things that we have done:
Replace: Alternator, voltage regulator.
Rebuilt front suspension/steering all new components (not the steering box).
Replaced all 4 axle boots.
Installed 4 new shocks
Installed 4 new springs.
Fabricated/installed new double steel mesh 3000 psi engine oil cooler lines.
New custom exhaust and basic muffler.
Replaced the driver seat assembly.
Replaced the rear seat base and back assembly.
Removed/reinstalled side trim parts with new clips.
Installed new clutch master and slave cylinder.
Replaced light bulbs in cluster & tail lights.
Installed new windshield washer pump, hoses, and nozzles.
Installed new windshield wiper blades.
Installed new front wheel bearings.
Rebuilt front / rear brake calipers.
Installed 4 new brake hoses.
Installed new front / rear rotors and pads.
Installed new 3 tires + good used spare.
Installed new vacuum shutoff box.
Installed new engine, transmission, differential mounts.
Installed new flex disc's + carrier bearing boot.
Installed new glow plugs.
Rebuilt lift pump + new primer pump.
Installed good used sway bar + 2 new sway bar links.
Installed new battery.
Installed new alternator and power steering belt.
All filters have been changed, and maintenance is current.
Removed, cleaned, reinstalled fuel sender.

Major work:
Wheel alignment.
Replaced cracked cylinder head with good used + serviced before installing.
Massive reduction / adjustment of engine idle (700 rpm) after cylinder head service.

Misc:
Removed the non functioning / dangerous cruise control.
AC compressor and bracket are not installed.
Condenser, hoses and other parts are present but the condition is unknown.
The dash has cracks but has a form fitting correct color carpet cover.

Extra parts: Deck lid, drivers door, 2 Arizona fenders (different colors than car)

This was the typical bargain basement priced car which had been neglected... but had strong "bones" We have put lots of parts into it as well as many dozens of hours of labor. Price: $4,500. The price is negotiable. Send a PM if you are interested. Can be driven anywhere. Does NOT need to be towed. Clear title, bill of sale with car as well as signed title. Fly in drive home!

Pictures as of September 2012. 121K+ on odometer

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6456.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6457.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/107239d1362710680-sold-1980-mercedes-w123-240d-%96-china-blue-img_6454.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6453.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6458.jpg?stc=1

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China Blue 240D more Pictures
 

Here are some of it's faults...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/107242d1362713829-sold-1980-mercedes-w123-240d-%96-china-blue-img_6465.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/107243d1362713829-sold-1980-mercedes-w123-240d-%96-china-blue-img_6466.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6468.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6462.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6459.jpg?stc=1






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China Blue 240D more Pictures
 

Here is the last of the rust (lower fender just above sill), a view of the jack points and the engine compartment

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6461.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6463.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6464.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6460.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6470.jpg?stc=1


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China Blue 240D more Pictures
 

Here are some shots of the interior, underbody, and data plate.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6472.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6474.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6476.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...3361.jpg?stc=1
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...146a.jpg?stc=1


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Ok you've been looking. Now is anyone interested?

The $4,500 price is just a starting point. I'm willing to consider offers!

Buy your kid a great car for Christmas. It's dependable, safe and gets decent mileage.

I'd like it to go before the holidays... I'm downsizing my fleet.

Love it
 

I am the new owner. :)

I had it up to 80 mph tonight. :D


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240D Manual 4 Speed Sold
 

The car has been sold. It is a very nice car. W. Hunter made me an offer I couldn't refuse. It had to be good if W. Hunter bought it... (just check on all of the parts we put into it!) It was a solid foundation and it would have been a pity to let it be scrapped out by the PO or sold to someone who couldn't have renewed it!

It has all the right stuff and none of the electronic stuff that goes bad! For a 240D with the 616 manual 4 speed it seems like it runs better and has more power than a NA 617 automatic. It's pretty zippy with the 4 speed on surface streets. But it does seem to run out of breath on inclines. It needs a 5th gear!

Sorry you missed it!

I already miss the star on the hood! Maybe I'll get a star to put on the hood of my pickup truck and on its tailgate.

Pete

status
 

This has become my daily driver. :D

I rarely bother raising the antenna or turning on the radio, because of the sweet engine music. :D

The alternator belt has been adjusted twice, currently investigating the cause of this issue, and plan to pick up a spare belt (today) to carry in the trunk.
I may install a 150 AMP alternator later, just because I can.

Because of winter weather, it has a new set of deep trough winter floor mats. :D

The only other improvement I would consider is a five speed transmission. :D

FYI
I am carrying in my coat, a small impact case with vial of alcohol and 10cc syringe with needle, due to door lock tumbler icing. This option is much cheaper for me, than the small spray lock deicer.
At the local CVS pharmacy a 10cc syringe with needle is $0.28 each, and a quart of CVS brand rubbing alcohol is $3.00......

A full 10cc shot of rubbing alcohol takes roughly one minute to deice the tumbler. :D


cross linking a bit of history on this car, for later need.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/325016-1980-240d-cracked-cylinder-head-cavitation-damage.html#post3093628

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I really like the black grill with the euro lights and white corner lights. I'm kind of partial to blue 123s, Nice car.

Speaking of: where does one obtain a black w123 grille, if they are obtainable?

Or was this painted?

I put the Taiwan AMG knockoff on my 300d, not to make it go faster, but for the black 'look'. With time I like it a bit less.

I spent a while masking and painted it on the car with a flat back, rattle can.
The plastic grill had grease stains around the hood pull tab, that I couldn't completely get out, so ether repaint it gray or see what black looks like. I like it but my car doesn't go any faster ether.

I don't know the answer to that, but I can say that I have had very good luck with Krylon's plastic-specific rattle-can paint. You must ensure that the plastic is scrupulously clean (no wax, no oil, etc.) and really dry, and paint it in temps above 50 degrees and low humidity. In those conditions, the painted plastic surface is gorgeous when done.

Sincerely,

Packman

at a minimum, a 4 speed I'd think...
if you need a 5 speed, Greezer may be willing to sell his current one with the difficult 2/3 synchros... maybe a trip down here to get the swap done, and catch up?

Sure is a nice looking car, Roy.

I really like the W123 chassis in the China Blue color.

Hmm
 

I don't know.
Considering patching in a Volvo overdrive.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3095255-post3.html

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I hope you never get searched in Detroit with the syringe.

I have started carrying a small MAPP gas unit in the trunk. It has amazing uses:
- heat the tip of the key and all ice is melted, lock opens easily
- heat a stubborn lug nut and it submits and is turned easily
- flame out the eyebrows of a knife-wielding robber who stops you as you change your tire :D If you do that too often, it costs another 11.00 to get more MAPP gas. Plus there's the issue of using too much and setting the guy's face on fire. So be conservative on your use of MAPP as a crime deterrent : :P

They are obtainable on e-bay, I have different front grille that looks more like a 380SL with big star, thus no more lost stars on the hood.

Umm
 

I need body armor to consider going to Detroit.

Do you think a compact or full size car would survive the Detroit gang environment ???

You know I have been considering some micro cars, example #1, example #2, example #3, example #4, example #5.


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Anytime I miss the clattering sound that came from my old 300SD, I fire-up my Ford 7.3 PSD, and it all comes back in a rush..... :D

URO lack of quality strikes again
 

I have a random light noise coming from the driveshaft carrier bearing installed seven months ago.

The upper control arm ball joints are shot, one year and roughly 6000 miles.

I did not notice the brand at that time. :o
Thankfully they are the only URO parts that went on this car. :)

The replacement parts have been ordered, and will arrive Saturday. :D

I have no complaints about the car, it's great fun up to 85 MPH. :D

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Spooge
 

What is wrong with these pictures ???

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps2af67ae5.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps4a466279.jpg


It cost me over 1/2 a tank of diesel.

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thats your use based automatic engine block cleaning system. You just have to reset it for the next time
:D

Driver's side motor mount
 

And don't forget shortening the life of the driver's side motor mount......

At least your oil pan should be clean on the driver's side.

Another old related thread
 

previous owner thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/56173-oh-no-clutch-no-workie.html

As a note, the clutch slave and master where replaced again roughly 1.5 years ago.

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Update
 

The rear end suspension was squirreling (slopping) side to side the other day.
I took the car off the road until I have time to look at it (diagnose the issue).

There is NO issue with vehicle level.

Possible bushing, wheel bearing, trailing arm. The attached drawing shows the rear motion, and the red circle indicates what feels like the focal point.

At the same time, the rear shocks must come off, there is a thumping (slop) issue with the upper shock bushings on hard corner and bumps. I suspect the cheap upper bushings have collapsed leaving a gap = jounce/rebound thump.


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Ticked off
 

Replaced a one year old failed engine mount on the 240D yesterday with a new Febi mount.

Cleaned the failed old mount, it was also FEBI. :eek:

Started the car this morning, rattling noise.

Opened the hood to look around......

*&^%$# aluminum engine support arm is resting on the new mount cup/body after 12 hours static load (parked). :mad:

Went through my used mount collection, found - installed a 33 year old Star marked mount.. :D

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Upper control arm Febi w123
 

Frustrated.

Roughly 1.5 year on new W123 Febi upper control arms.

Failed at roughly 7,500 miles.

The ball joints where slopping enough (MM) to rattle when removed from the car.


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I am going on 4 years of use on My URO ones; and URO LCA Bushings.

But, I don't drive a lot of miles and mostly around town.

Our City does not have the extreme Pothole problem that other do so that helps.

That's why, unlike whunter, I DO go into Detroit, but have the correct vehicle to mitigate problems with potholes

It's always easier when you can rise above your problems.

And we have one less, now that Hizzoner the Mayor is on a 28 year vacation courtesy of Uncle Sam. Let the great state of Texas take care of him now...

Love this car
 

in the SNOW it is great... :D

Started flawless at -16° F

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps814d94a5.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps6692891b.jpg

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^^^^ Awesome snow hat :D

Chuckle
 

You may like this one.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps4e296fbb.jpg

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ROFL
 

Half of my neighbors where unable to start their domestic GASSERS Tuesday morning at -16° F... :eek:

Just got back, picked up my daughter from work.
My 240D fired on the first revolution, with a single glow. :D

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Isn't that a great feeling....its maybe only dipped into the 20s and a few teens here and there is a ford diesel a few blocks away, that he has plugged in and then he still couldn't start it....I putted along and he gave me that look....like how is yours running :D

I love it!!!

YES
 

It is fun..
My neighbor was out this morning fighting to start his GMC 6.5 diesel. :D

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Did you ever get anywhere with that Volvo overdrive splice?

No
 

To many projects.
I am focused on the differential swap first, in my copious spare time..

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That leads to some funny signs
 

http://thumbs.media.smithsonianmag.c...0_q85_crop.jpg

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Working
 

Working too much.
I was forced to park this car, more than a month ago.
Suspension / steering issues.
Working on it now.

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Engine rebuild data
 

Here is where the engine was rebuilt.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/235928-240d-resurection.html


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Update
 

I resolved the issues a few days after the last post, and have been happily driving this vehicle.

This changed 1-9-2015.

Due to COLD weather, it has been running/idling 5 days = not turned off.

Preparing Leave work 1-9-2015, the idle was rough / stumbling.

I shut down for quick (safety) fluid checks:

#1. The engine temp was 75° C.
#2. Removed the radiator cap, no heat waves / steam. :eek:
#3. The radiator cap rubber seal (inside the radiator tank) had heavy frost. :eek:
#4. The engine oil level was a pint low, ignored = oil change next week.
#5. The washer fluid was semi frozen slush, added rubbing alcohol.
#6. Inspected the alternator / water pump drive belt = GOOD.

It re-started OK.
The idle was still rough.
Took off for work, throttle response was bad/poor as if it was a total COLD start.
I struggled to reach / maintain 65 MPH on the drive to work.
The power seemed to reduce further as I neared work.

(I know older forum members are chuckling, as you know what happened).

I stopped at the fuel station in front of work, and added two quarts of kerosene to the fuel tank.

By lunch time, the ambient temperature had dropped another 9° F, the engine temp was 75° C, and the car was happily clattering.
The idle was perfect, and all power was back.


The cause of this annoyance = fuel waxing.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/333073-diesel-fuel-prone-waxing-gelling-cold-weather.html


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Cold weather
 

Sunday 2-15-2015 the battery failed due to old age / cold weather.

I have been expecting this, and bought a new battery in January.

The new battery has been on the passenger cabin floor, waiting for time or need to install.

Frosted fingers from cold tools and the new battery had me off to work, arriving on time.

Leaving work, our ambient was -10° F.
Normal glow, quick start, but notably slow to warm up = blame it on the weather.

I am very happy. :D

^^ I love to hear when someone else experiences my miseries :P

I had this happen in 2012, but add a bad starter in the mix....nothing like changing a 55lb monster in the January temps of the low 20's..

Chuckle
 

Paranoia is good.
I carry a spare starter and tools. :D

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Not on these cars :P Every noise makes you go insane. I use to get paranoid and would pull right over to check things out, now I am just like yeh I don't think so I will wait for it to fall off :D

After changing out alternators on my 300SD in a snow covered Mercedes-Benz dealer's parking lot in Jackson, Mississippi 20+years ago, I decided if I was going to do that, then I could carry a lot more necessary parts and supplies along with me. I added a 2nd jackstand for good measure.;)

Update
 

My next project will be speaker replacement.

The rear are blown, and front are failing.

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Ouch
 

The front bumper fell off, serious corrosion and I suspect someone backed into it at work.

I will post pictures ASAP.

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Update
 

A friend in California grabbed a beautiful front bumper for me.

He is arranging shipping to Michigan.

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