So im trying to replace this and I stripped the hex. I bought some reverse tap screws. Should I use the smallest screw or should it be tge equivalent size of the hex key?

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1985 300d Turbo Diesel

I have not read of Reverse Tap Screws before so cannot comment on them.

If that does not work is it possible to use a longer Screw and a Nut on the other side.

Don't know if they have them small enough but PepBoys and some other Autop Part stores are selling cheap Metric type helicoil sets with the drill and tap and coil.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Best of luck getting to "the other side."

The problem is removing socket-head screw with a stripped head. A Helicoil isn't going to solve that problem.

If you have the other three screws out, you might be able to loosen the offending screw by rotating the entire striker. That has worked for me a couple of times. Otherwise, use whatever size reverse screw that fits.

On the other side of the door striker on my car there are two bits of removable steel that can be slid out and replaced. I can't remember if you can get access to the other side with the parts in place or not - if you can it will be pretty tight. It is now dark (and cold) outside but if you need me to check my shell of a car tomorrow I can do.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

That is unrelated to the issue at hand.

Oh OK then - I no understand.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

thanks for the reply guys. yes I do have the three removed. I'll try and rotate the plate.

If that doesnt work, my original question was probably not written properly. I purchased some of those screw extractor bits. They are like reverse drill bits. The instructions say to hammer in to get it to bite then unscrew them out. The idea is that they should bite into the screw. I'm wondering if I need to go with the smallest one or the biggest one I can fit in there. I know I can try both but I dont want to start small or big only to find out I'm making the problem worse.
thanks for your replies..

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1985 300d Turbo Diesel

I know what you are talking about. This may need to be replaced if the OP needs to drill out the screw since if I remember there isn't much room for re-tapping or a heli coil.

I would soak it with PB Blaster and then try your preferred method of removing stripped screws.

There is typically no harm in starting small. Too small won't get any purchase, so move up until you do.

Since th OP was already picking out what replacement screw to use I thought the stripped screw was out.

If the Socket Head is stripped I don't see why and Eeezie Out type too would not work. You just need to pic one of the types that seems like it will work and try it.

Then there is a few Members who have said you can Beat in a Torqx type bit and use that like an Eeesie out. That appears to work on the Motor Mount Bolts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

probably to small to weld a second bolt directly on it and use that bolt to unscrew the other....or is it too small?

When mine stripped out I used a chisel and hammer to start them turning. I ound the chisel into one side of the screw head (left, at a downward angle to turn the screw ccw) and when it was set in pretty good I lowered the angle and gave it some whacks. 2 hours later, I had 4 screws out!

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I could not own any MB without the help from you...fellow forum members.


83 300td 207,XXX

I have seen the Chisel and Hammer work before.

Tape over any areas you donot want scraped incase the Chisel pops off.

I have also seen my Boss do the same with a sharp pointed Center Punch not the 45 degree angle that the come with but one He pointed on the Grinder.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

trust me when i tell you this: find a good automotive machine shop in your area, and convince them to remove it for you. these guys do little jobs like this all the time, albeit not necessarily on the car, and would be much more likely to do it right without stripping the moving nut than you would be. if you wanna get crazy, go to the junkyard with a sawzall and cut out a b-pillar with striker intact, and take it to the machine shop so they can practise on it, then ask them if they'd do it for your car.

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by the way guys, i have removed literally hundreds of strikers before (to sell them on ebay). the trick is to use a long 5mm allen that is embedded into a socket, with the tip filed flat, and use a mallet to tap into the nut for a good minute of solid tapping, before you begin to remove it. use the same long allen in socket, and a socket wrench with an extension pipe for extra double the extra torque (length of allen and length of handle on the wrench) to ensure it comes off on the first turn. if you don't do this your chances of stripping the bolt go up 35.2%

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