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  #1  
Old 11-20-2012, 03:43 PM
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Need IP removal DIY

Any DIY or write ups concerning the removal of the injection pump? I have OM602 2.5L 5cyl 190d. It's a non turbo manual grey market car.

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 11-20-2012, 07:54 PM
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I don`t know if this will help you but for the 603. might be some similarities.

PeachPartsWiki: Injection Pump Removal

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2012, 09:04 PM
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Actually if the Fuel Injection pump Timing Locking Tool (part number 601-589-05-21-00) is installed properly you can BY HAND crank the Engine Engine Slowly until it locks.

When you pull the Fuel Injection Pump out leave the Timing/Locking Tool in place and when you put the Fuel Injection pump back in (with the new O-ring on the front) the IP will go back into the same spot; assuming you did not rotate the Engine after pulling the IP out.
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2012, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Actually if the Fuel Injection pump Timing Locking Tool (part number 601-589-05-21-00) is installed properly you can BY HAND crank the Engine Engine Slowly until it locks.

When you pull the Fuel Injection Pump out leave the Timing/Locking Tool in place and when you put the Fuel Injection pump back in (with the new O-ring on the front) the IP will go back into the same spot; assuming you did not rotate the Engine after pulling the IP out.
Good point.

If the car ran good, I would line up the crank pulley @ 24BTDC and pull the pump. (617's) The index marks on the front of the pump drive should be aligned with the IP housing.

I would then set the new pump to the same position and install. If it started and ran nice, we never went any further.

That's the way it was working flat rate...Robert

P.S. Do you have a pictorial on the correct use of this obscure tool????
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2012, 11:53 PM
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If someone googles the Part Number or looks in the Tools at Pelican Parts they can find a pic.

This was My Fist time using the Timing Locking Pin; the 1984 has the port for it. Any one thinking about buying the Tool needs to make sure there Fuel Injection Pump has the port for it.

Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

There is Locking Pin for the older IPs with the smaller port but it is no longer sold.
Attached Thumbnails
Need IP removal DIY-ip-locking-tool-nov-12.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 11-21-2012, 12:39 AM
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@ Diesel911,

617's use this tool????
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #7  
Old 11-21-2012, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
@ Diesel911,

617's use this tool????

Not all of them. See the text in the Pics.
Attached Thumbnails
Need IP removal DIY-fuel-injection-pump-timing-tools-617-nov-12.jpg   Need IP removal DIY-fuel-injection-pump-timing-tools-nov-12.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Not all of them. See the text in the Pics.

Thanks....I will know later today what year the replacement IP is...
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2012, 03:59 PM
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Excellent, Thanks for the response. I'm thinking the Merc shop down the road has one for the 82+. He had the splined socket when I was messing with delivery valves.

@ Doktor Bert: Why 24* before?? Why did you do that?
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  #10  
Old 11-21-2012, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
P.S. Do you have a pictorial on the correct use of this obscure tool????
it isn't all that obscure. in fact, i've never removed an ip without using a locking pin. the factory procedure works and is simple. no need to reinvent the wheel.
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  #11  
Old 11-21-2012, 04:11 PM
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you don't happen to know what size the crank bolt is on my engine off hand do you? Is it an allen?
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by torsionbar View Post
it isn't all that obscure. in fact, i've never removed an ip without using a locking pin. the factory procedure works and is simple. no need to reinvent the wheel.
Ever work for a MBZ dealer????

It seems we seldom had the special tools and developed ways to do it without them for speed's sake....
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2012, 06:34 PM
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OK I turned the crank with 27mm socket until I could see the little blade in the pump. Then I took it to 15 ATDC and loosely put the special tool in the hole and pressed and turned it with no luck. So I carefully moved the crank a few degrees and tried again. This time I got a little click (less than I was expecting) and It appears to have seated. But the pump needle is at 18 degrees instead of 15??















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Last edited by Proctor750; 11-28-2012 at 07:43 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2012, 08:35 PM
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The variance could be due to wear or how the camshaft was originally timed....
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2012, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proctor750 View Post
OK I turned the crank with 27mm socket until I could see the little blade in the pump. Then I took it to 15 ATDC and loosely put the special tool in the hole and pressed and turned it with no luck. So I carefully moved the crank a few degrees and tried again. This time I got a little click (less than I was expecting) and It appears to have seated. But the pump needle is at 18 degrees instead of 15??












Timing Chain Stretch and Gear Wear could account for the late timing.

This is the way I would have done it.

I would have installed the Tool all the way in (it has a spring on it so no need to push on it) making sure the screwdriver type slot on the outside of the Plunger is lined up as in the picture.

I would have rotated the Engine to 15 ATDC degrees after the Compression Stroke and leave it there.

After loosening the Fuel Injectection Pump nuts/bolts that keep it from rotating I would have rotated the Fuel Injection Pump top towards the Engine until the Tool Clicked in place and the Fuel Injection Pump could not be moved more.
Re-check the Tool to be sure the screwdriver type slot on the Exterior of the Plunger is in the postion in the picture.

If not line it up and make sure the Fuel Injection Pump is locked.
At that point I would have tightend down the nuts/bolts and the Fuel Injection Pump would have been retimed.

Also on your Emission Sticker you should have the Timing for your exact Vehicle. In the pic on my 84 300D Sticker the 2nd circled spec is the timing allowed for when I use the Timing Locking Pin (listed on the Sticker is the RIV Method but both the Locking Pin and the RIV Method use the same reference).
On my Engine I am allowed 16-14 Degrees After Top Dead Center.
Attached Thumbnails
Need IP removal DIY-ip-timing-locking-tool-nov-12.jpg   Need IP removal DIY-sticker-idle-speed-valve-adjustment-specs-nov-12.jpg  

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Last edited by Diesel911; 11-28-2012 at 09:38 PM.
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