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  #1  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:46 PM
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Camber

Where do i point the lobe for more positive camber?

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Camber-camber.jpg  
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Last edited by my123ca; 11-21-2012 at 09:19 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2012, 03:33 PM
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It looks like it's at the minumum camber angle now. So either way will be a step in the "less negative" direction.
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2012, 09:20 PM
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Do i go clockwise or counterclock?
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my123ca View Post
Do i go clockwise or counterclock?
It won't matter; you are at the low point now. Either way will move the narrow side of the eccentric washer away from the bearing surface and move the LCA bolt inboard. The bolt resides in an elongated slot and can only move laterally.
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  #5  
Old 11-22-2012, 12:27 AM
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No, thats all the way positive. You will get negative camber by turning it either direction.
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2012, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis_k View Post
No, thats all the way positive. You will get negative camber by turning it either direction.
So…when the bolt is rotated, which way is the LCA going to move? Inboard or outboard?

Unless I am really confused, the LCA will move inboard. The top of the tire will move in the opposite direction. That makes the camber either less negative or more positive.
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2012, 03:14 AM
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Here's some information that might help.

It is worthwhile noting that the "eccentric bolt" goes straight through the end of the lower control arm (LCA) - all of the eccentric movement is on the egg shaped "washer" part of the bolt (that you can see in the picture posted above - here it is again)



For the configuration shown above; turning the eccentric bolt in either direction you will draw the LCA inboard.

As the upper control arm can not be adjusted the top part of the suspension remains "fixed" (this might not be the case if there is wear!); drawing the LCA inboard will cause positive camber as shown in this picture...



...that I found from this site =>

Caster, Camber & Toe for Tires


############

You might be interested to know that due to the weird triangular geometrical shape of the W123 front suspension that by changing the camber you also change the castor angle. If you want to see more information about that (and perhaps some information about setting up W123 front suspension) I wrote a bit about how I did it here =>

How I adjusted the toe in / out, camber and caster on my W123 300D
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post

...drawing the LCA inboard will cause positive camber...
Depending on other factors, it might or might not be possible to achieve a positive camber angle. But at least the change should be in a "more positive" (less negative) direction.
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  #9  
Old 11-22-2012, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
Depending on other factors, it might or might not be possible to achieve a positive camber angle. But at least the change should be in a "more positive" (less negative) direction.
Indeed - that triangular configuration can have you scratching your head whilst you adjust this and adjust that. The camber on the W123 is meant to be (more or less) zero degrees but this is to be measured after you've set the toe in / out to zero; if you adjust - even slightly - the camber or the castor then you need to go back to the toe...

...doing it with out the special tool or an alignment rig it feels a bit like a never ending circle of adjust this - reset that - adjust this - trip over that! (as described in that thread I started)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 11-22-2012, 12:01 PM
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Will this work as a spreader bar? How do i get 110-120N? 2-in-1 Support/Cargo Bar
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  #11  
Old 11-22-2012, 01:21 PM
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That sort of thing will work but it is pretty powerful - it is almost 3 times too powerful assuming it can support 66lbs (as it says so in the blurb). It should fit quite nicely between the tyres though

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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