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  #16  
Old 11-24-2012, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by destroy View Post
Interesting theory, but the funny thing is that what looked like a sleeve on my car isn't just limited to mine. It's also on my old engine, and it looks like it's on the photo I posted that I pulled off of Diesel Giant's website.

Anyway I pulled the bolts from the old engine so it'll be proper from now on but haven't been able to get any hardware to see if I can put a nut on the portion of the bolt that protrudes through to the under side of the housing. This should fix it and keep the stud held firm so the lid will stay on tight. Still convinced there's a "sleeve" of some kind and curious how it's held in there other than magick.
If you're talking about getting a nut onto whatever bolt or stud you could use, that would be long enough to protrude through the bottom of the ears on the filter housing, there isn't enough clearance between those ears and the side of the housing to get a nut on there.
However, if the threads in the ears are gone, a suitably long 8mm bolt, with part of the head ground off and inserted from below, works just fine. Just use the original flange-nuts (if you still have them) or 8mm nuts & washers up top to secure the cover.

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  #17  
Old 03-10-2016, 09:00 PM
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The stud pulled out of my oil filter housing during an oil change...probably too many trips to the quickie oil change places in the past. I did a quick temporary fix which is probably "good enough" as a longer term solution, but I'll get it done right before the next oil change. There was 3-4 threads left at the bottom of the casting so a long M8-1.25 bolt was able to be threaded in and "snugged". I then used an angle grinder to cut a sleeve at an angle that matched up with the fillet in the casting and added a nut from the bottom to cinch it up nicely.



I think I'll add bolt/sleeve this to my "road trip" kit in case the other one strips out during an oil change away from home. If one is damaged, the other one is likely not far behind.

If it happens to you, this will definitely get you by.
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Replace Your Oil Filter Housing Studs - OM617:-oilfilter.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 03-10-2016, 11:56 PM
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Another way some have done a similar repair drill the hole all the way through and grind of file off the side of a bolt head flat and insert the Bolt in the hole from the bottom and a Nut on top.

It is likely if the lower part of the bolt near the head is coated with JB Weld Epoxy the Bolt will stay in place as if it was a stud once you tighten the Nut and then let it cure with it in place.
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Replace Your Oil Filter Housing Studs - OM617:-bolt-2.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2016, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Another way some have done a similar repair drill the hole all the way through and grind of file off the side of a bolt head flat and insert the Bolt in the hole from the bottom and a Nut on top.

It is likely if the lower part of the bolt near the head is coated with JB Weld Epoxy the Bolt will stay in place as if it was a stud once you tighten the Nut and then let it cure with it in place.
Except for the JB-weld, that's what I did with my first 240D ten years ago. I copied this fix when I found a PO had made this repair to the first stud, after the second one pulled out on me. Both were still holding fine when I sold the car eight years later. The way the bolt heads were ground, they wedged in pretty snug. So I never bothered with JB-weld or Lock-Tite. Also, during oil changes, it's easier than dealing with re-installing bolts, nuts & spacers.

However the bolt, nut & spacer repair is a good alternative if you don't have a bench-grinder handy and don't want to spend all day filing.

So far no problems with the oil-filter studs on the three W123s I've owned since then.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 03-11-2016 at 11:05 AM.
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  #20  
Old 03-11-2016, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
Except for the JB-weld, that's what I did with my first 240D ten years ago. I copied this fix when I found a PO had made this repair to the first stud, after the second one pulled out on me. Both were still holding fine when I sold the car eight years later. The way the bolt heads were ground, they wedged in pretty snug. So I never bothered with JB-weld or Lock-Tite. Also, during oil changes, it's easier than dealing with re-installing bolts, nuts & spacers.

However the bolt, nut & spacer repair is a good alternative if you don't have a bench-grinder handy and don't want to spend all day filing.

So far no problems with the oil-filter studs on the three W123s I've owned since then.

Happy Motoring, Mark
If you put a bolt of that size in a Vice grips (better off a Vice) it does not take long file off that metal with a File.
It cold be done while someone watches TV.
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  #21  
Old 03-11-2016, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If you put a bolt of that size in a Vice grips (better off a Vice) it does not take long file off that metal with a File.
It cold be done while someone watches TV.
I've reached an age where filing, especially while using a vise-grips, could take all day. Or at least way too long if I screw up and need to do it over
I'll just keep using the grinder. Thanks.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #22  
Old 03-13-2016, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
I've reached an age where filing, especially while using a vise-grips, could take all day. Or at least way too long if I screw up and need to do it over
I'll just keep using the grinder. Thanks.

Happy Motoring, Mark
I am 64+ years old.
I was not recommending using a File if you have a Bench Grinder or some other means.
Some other means I have used to file or grind metal: Belt Sander, a Rotary File on a Drill Motor, electric and pneumatic Die Grinder with a cutoff wheel and this disc type grinders that welders use sometimes called angle grinders.
It also takes a coarse file to move the metal fast.

If someone has a vice I think they could cut the part of the bolt head off with a Hack Saw.

Ability+imagination.
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  #23  
Old 03-13-2016, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I am 64+ years old.
I was not recommending using a File if you have a Bench Grinder or some other means.
Some other means I have used to file or grind metal: Belt Sander, a Rotary File on a Drill Motor, electric and pneumatic Die Grinder with a cutoff wheel and this disc type grinders that welders use sometimes called angle grinders.
It also takes a coarse file to move the metal fast.

If someone has a vice I think they could cut the part of the bolt head off with a Hack Saw.

Ability+imagination.
A couple months ago, I had to use a file to 'adjust' a poorly-shaped oval aftermarket aluminum stock-mount to fit a friend's rifle. That took hours, but using a bench-grinder would have been way too crude.
In addition to my bench-grinder, I use an electric die-grinder with a cut-off wheel a lot. Recently used both my 'grinders', and a drill & 4mm tap to make a pin-drive sleeve-nut out of a 2.5 inch 1/4" bolt.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #24  
Old 03-13-2016, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
A couple months ago, I had to use a file to 'adjust' a poorly-shaped oval aftermarket aluminum stock-mount to fit a friend's rifle. That took hours, but using a bench-grinder would have been way too crude.
In addition to my bench-grinder, I use an electric die-grinder with a cut-off wheel a lot. Recently used both my 'grinders', and a drill & 4mm tap to make a pin-drive sleeve-nut out of a 2.5 inch 1/4" bolt.

Happy Motoring, Mark
Cool!
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  #25  
Old 03-13-2016, 05:27 PM
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As for my first 240D, I was very lucky ten years ago that the oil-filter stud popped during daylight, a month after I bought the car. I was able to spot the big black lake in the driveway before I drove off and totally wasted the engine. As it happens, that engine suffered from low oil-pressure for the six years I owned the car. So I suspect the PO wasn't as lucky when that first oil-filter stud came out. I'm sure the fact that the PO bought the car for their teenagers to thrash for several years, contributed to it's tired engine, and the rust contributed to my $225 purchase price.
It was a valuable learning experience fixing assorted rust-holes and other maladies common to abused W123 diesels. I also learned I didn't want any more automatic 240Ds.
In any case, I was gentle enough to keep it going, using it mostly as a second or third car for local errands, so when I finally I sold it, the car was in decent enough shape to fetch $1000!

Happy Motoring, Mark

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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 03-13-2016 at 05:57 PM.
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