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  #1  
Old 11-30-2012, 03:49 PM
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What to use for an engine flush

I was planning on doing an engine flush here soon next time I change my oil on my 240D. Don't know if the PO did or not. What's the generally accepted method/material you guys use?
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2012, 04:02 PM
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There are some methods that folks use that IMHO are dangerous. Running an engine even for two seconds on nothing but solvent is risky.

For me, assuming you are talking about the 240D in your sig, I would do it by doing some frequent HOT, overnight oil and filter changes using one of the diesel oils such as Rotella, Delo or Delvac. These have lots of detergents for soot dispersal.

If you want to help it along, once engine is hot and you pull the drain plug get ready with a gallon of diesel fuel in a jug. Give the engine about 15 minutes so the oil mostly drains out and then pour the diesel fuel in the oil filler hole as fast as you can. Let it just flood through the dead, hot engine and then let it drain overnight before replacing filter, plug and oil.

Draining the oil while it's as hot as you can get it will bring out more of the contaminants while they are still suspended in the oil before the oil cools allowing the crud to stick to parts within. Draining overnight gets those last drops which are the sludgiest.

Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2012, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
For me, assuming you are talking about the 240D in your sig, I would do it by doing some frequent HOT, overnight oil and filter changes using one of the diesel oils such as Rotella, Delo or Delvac. These have lots of detergents for soot dispersal.


Hope this helps.
This is good advice. Do several subsequent oil changes at 200 miles or so.
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
There are some methods that folks use that IMHO are dangerous. Running an engine even for two seconds on nothing but solvent is risky.

For me, assuming you are talking about the 240D in your sig, I would do it by doing some frequent HOT, overnight oil and filter changes using one of the diesel oils such as Rotella, Delo or Delvac. These have lots of detergents for soot dispersal.

If you want to help it along, once engine is hot and you pull the drain plug get ready with a gallon of diesel fuel in a jug. Give the engine about 15 minutes so the oil mostly drains out and then pour the diesel fuel in the oil filler hole as fast as you can. Let it just flood through the dead, hot engine and then let it drain overnight before replacing filter, plug and oil.

Draining the oil while it's as hot as you can get it will bring out more of the contaminants while they are still suspended in the oil before the oil cools allowing the crud to stick to parts within. Draining overnight gets those last drops which are the sludgiest.

Hope this helps.
Thanks! About how many times should I do this? Quite a few, or until fresh oil stops coming out black and gunky? Also, diesel will not hurt the engine as long as its given a while to drain, correct?
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2012, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
Thanks! About how many times should I do this? Quite a few, or until fresh oil stops coming out black and gunky? Also, diesel will not hurt the engine as long as its given a while to drain, correct?
Do it enough times that the oil is no longer coming out black as night. After a few hundred miles a well-"flushed" engine should have coffee colored oil instead.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2012, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
Thanks! About how many times should I do this? Quite a few, or until fresh oil stops coming out black and gunky? Also, diesel will not hurt the engine as long as its given a while to drain, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwasser View Post
Do it enough times that the oil is no longer coming out black as night. After a few hundred miles a well-"flushed" engine should have coffee colored oil instead.
um, a diesel motor is never going to have clear or amber colored oil.
it's ALWAYS going to be ink black moments after you start the motor.

however, it should not be thick or chunky. smooth oil is good.
before you decide the motor needs some kind of flush, take the oil fill cap off, and look around the cam lobes. if you can see the casting flash on the motor parts, the oil is normal, and a simple oil change is all that's needed.
if however, you see thick sludge on the non moving parts... then yeah, at a minimum, I'd dump the oil and filter, and install fresh clean oil, then put about 3-500 miles on it, and change it again.
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2012, 12:09 AM
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DO NOT USE ANY "FLUSHING" AGENT in your oil

USE ONLY SYNTHETIC DIESEL RATED OILS !
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by uberwasser View Post
Do it enough times that the oil is no longer coming out black as night. After a few hundred miles a well-"flushed" engine should have coffee colored oil instead.
This is a factually incorrect statement.
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2012, 12:14 PM
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Some diesels will, but not the one's we're talking about here. The oil in my '03 Dodge is still coffee colored after 18K miles, but that's an exception.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2012, 05:45 PM
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This is a factually incorrect statement.
Don't knock it 'til you've tried it.

Anyway, it's advice I've gotten from skilled classic Benz diesel mechanics I've met in person. I'll take that over the internet's advice. But we now have both sides represented here, which is always nice; he can decide his path. Peace!
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2012, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
This is a factually incorrect statement.
one could almost say... moronic!
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
I was planning on doing an engine flush here soon next time I change my oil on my 240D. Don't know if the PO did or not. What's the generally accepted method/material you guys use?
The generally accepted method is to drain the oil, change the filter, and install eight quarts of synthetic oil.

That's all the "flush" that you need unless the engine has been horribly abused.

Be advised that any "flush" will definitely provide significantly lower viscosity than engine oil, thereby running the significant risk of much higher than desired wear for as long as you run the engine with the flush. If you run the engine for one minute, the flush cannot seriously do much of anything. If you run the engine for two hours, the flush will do some cleaning............and you'll be without some cylinder, ring, and camshaft material when done.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2012, 04:26 PM
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I've done a flush on a gas engine with dieselFilled it up and shook truck engine for five minutes.then drained and filled with new oil.It had a clogged screen.However do not let engine start till you build oil pressure.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2012, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
I was planning on doing an engine flush here soon next time I change my oil on my 240D. Don't know if the PO did or not. What's the generally accepted method/material you guys use?
What's the difference between a flush and purge? Or, I know what a purge is, so what is a flush?
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2012, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
What's the difference between a flush and purge? Or, I know what a purge is, so what is a flush?
Maybe be the same as what you're thinking. "Flush" meaning cleaning the cam and engine out of gunk and sludge without having to take things apart.
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