Close but a bit late. Just ordered

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...psbf9d6384.jpg

$35 off the "bay"

TMAllison you might want to list with prices?

I use a deep socket Snap-on and have never had a problem with the nipples fitting . it's a 12 point and maybe they line up just right. I know Hazet makes a special socket but I've never had the need to purchase one.
what happened to your 99 diesel. is it gone for good?

In addition to new plastic injector line clips you need to order the rubber shim that goes with each clip. You will need to cut each shim. Good luck

It went to parts heaven. Indie ground a hole into a water jacket while working on GP #6 and his Ins totaled it. Offered $9k for a $4-5k car. Rather than complain, I upgraded.

There are no signs of any shims on mine. I replaced one clip and it took a huge amount of force to engage the clip, I can't imagine a shim.

Do you have a part number, Thanks

Got out there with a strong flashlight and I have the shims. They must be attached some how or simply fused in place with age.

They have probably hardened with age. They are held on with an arrow shaped piece on the back that fits into the slot on the metal holder. They're probably also adhered to the mount from age.

Thanks to all for your help and hints.

Finally got the 22mm factory thin walled injector socket. Interesting enough it was still a bit tight in a couple of the holes. Fat Casting??

So the weather warmed up to a balmy +4F and the job was started on a cold block.
1. Removed the hard line clips on the head to free them up.
2. Remove the flare nut from the hard lines.
3. Remove dirt, oil and grime from the injector well with vacuum or air pressure.
4. Very gently and only just enough to get the socket in, move the hard lines aside.
5. With the ratchet on the injector give it a "pop" with the palm and the injector loosens and is free to turn out with only finger pressure.
6 Take to injector shop with new Bosch injector tips and have them rebuilt and pop set and tested. The pop pressure is stamped on the injector barrel. 135 bar.
7 They will be returned clinically clean, set to the proper pressure wrapped in plastic to keep them clean.
8. I used a magnet pick-up tool to remove the heat shields.
9. Clean the bottom of the "well" so it is free of oil, carbon and other dirt so the new heat shield will seat properly.
10 I slid the new heat shields down a plastic straw and verified placement with a strong flashlight, easy.
11 Paying particular attention to cleanliness unwrap the rebuilt injector, put it in the socket and screw in in, easy to get it finger tight.
12 Torque to 30 foot pounds. It is a bit un-nerving to use a 1/2 inch torque wrench 18 inches long to put only 30 pounds on the socket, it feels way to light.
13. I gave the flare on the hard line a shot of brake cleaner and attached with the nut and the fuel line bracket clips.
14 I ran into some problems with the diesel return lines, The top line was first supplied as being the proper one. It obviously has a too large of an outside diameter and too large an inside diameter. The middle is the new proper return line and the bottom is the old brittle line. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...psd00389cb.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...psfac5f843.jpg

Interestingly enough only two of the return lines leaked. Any how, replaced them all after a trip to the dealer.

The beauty cover is still off as I will watch it like a hawk for the next couple of days but I am reasonably certain that they will not leak.

Starting was easier than I thought it would be. With a full tank I had the battery charger on the battery for several hours so it was fully charger. Glowed it flicked the key and it turned over for about 15 seconds (I thought and had read that it would try for 2 minutes, it didn't) Re-glowed it and it sputtered the second 15 seconds. Third glow and flick and it started. Of course it filled a couple of the injector wells with diesel really fast.

With the correct diesel return lines on all is well.

BJ Welded the broken plastic elbow or the oil separator that broke on removal and kept a hair dryer on it for an hour, 15 minute road test and all is well.

Thanks again to all. I would rate it slightly more difficult than changing spark plugs due to the hard lines and the need for cleanliness. If necessary I would do it again in another 290,000km.

Good to see everything went well.

I received and replied to a PM about MPGs and thought that I might share with all.

FYI the above represents 48,366.7 miles 1,348.59 UKGallons