Jay Bob has it right:

"Also the Bowden cables connect to a reel inside the switch. The stub coming from the reel ties into the cable going to the damper (fan) or valve (temp) with a bayonet connector inline about an inch from the switch body.

Pull off the knobs, the 3 big ones and the defrost knob(s)
Remove the big nuts behind the knobs
Carefully remove the control panel, on mine the plastic was really brittle.

The switches are held in by a couple of tabs, if you rotate the switch body from behind the tabs will release and you can pull the switch back into the space behind the panel.

While you have it apart change the bulbs in the ac panel (5 total), the FO (fiber optic) spider, and the ac temp wheel. Also use some alcohol on a q-tip to clean the fiber ends."

It's not that hard to get in there. Basically you have to pull out the ashtray; the bracket for the ashtray; the radio; and the small panel with the rocker switches for interior light, rear window defrost, etc (slip a small screwdriver under the bottom and pry gently). To pull the console see D. Morrison's excellent write-up on cleaning evaporator coils (PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the A/C Evaporator). I'd leave the carpeted side panels attached to the console - it is easy to tear the cardboard when you try to unclip them from the console. The plastic bracket for the switches is, like JayBob said, "really brittle." Get the right kind of glue for ABS plastic (probably modeling cement) to repair it, if necessary.

On my fan switch the plastic beaded wire that reels in and out of the switch had jammed and broken. I replaced it with a large paper clip bent into a curve with a hook on the switch end that secures it and a little loop on the other end to catch the cable like the bayonet blade on the original part does. That quick 'n dirty fix has lasted a couple of years; the beads are nice though and give a better feel to the switch. I picked up a good switch at the boneyard and will put it in there one of these days.

As long as you're going this far you might as well go all the way and do the a/c evaporator cleaning job as well, as described in the above link, though this means pulling the dash, too (it's not nearly as hard or complicated as it looks). Also check the heater coil and make sure it is not going to spring a leak; I'd take the heater coil to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and checked out.

When pulling the dash, if you decide to do this, it's easier if you remove the steering wheel; also undo the U-bracket that holds the steering column up (you can get to it easily when you pop out the instrument cluster). If you lower the steering column you will reduce the risk of breaking off the cruise control lever (don't ask why I'd warn you about that!).

I got a huge improvement with the a/c after cleaning the evaporator coil and no wonder -- a disgusting build-up of who knows what was clogging it up after 30 years. Some say you can clean it in place but I don't see how you could really get it clean that way. Living in So Cal you probably need a/c almost as much as we do in Texas and if you have a clean system with R12 as it was originally designed it will work great.

I have an '80 euro 240D parts car with a manual climate control and aftermarket ac. If you find the part that you need I will check out the same part on my parts car and see if it's good. If so, you can have it for the shipping cost.

Hope this helps.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

Thanks a bunch! I probably won't get to it until next weekend, so I'll report back when I've done it.

Appreciate the offer Larry!

I won't be around much in the next few weeks, checking the forum sporadically, so send me a PM to get my attention.

__________________
2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution