More ideas

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/149958-door-striker-quick-fix-w123-w126.html

I have used a paint stir stick whittled down to fit...worked for a while.

Need MB part # for Door Locking Eylet Part

X2 on the rubber seal

...and nice thread title by the way - kind of reminds me of the "every time I wanna piss I need to lift that %^^ing seat" problem!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I suggest using a hammer impact device with a socket allen on the striker screws. They are often so tight no amount of careful coaxing will get them out without stripping the head. This cheapo impact device works like a charm though.

I have one on my wagon that needs replacing now.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

80s BMWs had a little rubber or plastic tip right on the swinging part of the doorlatch itself. They wear out & fall off the latch, making the door hard to close. Those tips used to be availible separately, but it's been awhile since I worked on one.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

I had a problem with mine, having to slam the drivers door. Moved the striker up, down, in & out. Enen reolaced it with a good one. Finally using a small brush, greased up the latch really well, and It has worked great.

That was several years ago.

The rear door strikers in the yards are good one's to pull, as the rear doors don't get used as much.

CHARLIE

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

The biggest issue I have is getting the screws out. I stripped all the ones on my driver's door trying to get them out. I used a socket and breakerbar on one - stripped. Then I used an air impact wrench on another - stripped immediately. I tried placing the alan socket in the bolt and pounding it with a 3lb sledge a few times and then use the socket and a wrench. The last one I pounded and tried the air impact. All stripped. Now I have to drill the heads out and hope to Jesus the rest of the bolt will come out with pliers or something.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

It isn't too much of a big deal (on a W123) just don't damage the striker plate - if you need to you can totally knacker the threads inside the door because they are on a little bit of bar that can be removed and replaced. This bit of bar slides out from the pillar - you have to remove the inside door pillar trim to get to it though.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'm not sure why I had so much trouble with the striker bolts on my car because I got 15/16 off a 1991 300SE in the junk yard with just a breaker bar and hex socket. Now I have 4 mint condition strikers and 15 bolts. I just need to find some time to drill out the bolts on my car and swap the striker out. I bet it will be fun adjusting the new one.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

OK. I still need help. I am trying to get the striker off the driver's door that has 4 stripped bolts. I tried drilling them out but I only wound up burning up a few drill bits. I don't know what those bolts are made of but DAMN! The ones I got from the 1991 300SE are attracted to a magnet. Stainless steel perhaps? I dunno but they can't be aluminum or drilling them out would have been no problem. Easy-outs do not work, either. Tried turning the screws with an impact hammer, no dice. Just cuts the screw up. Same with a sledge and chisel.

The only other thing I can think of is taking it to a machine shop that has diamond bits and letting them drill it out. I'm out of ideas and I somehow moved the striker, so the door closes worse than before.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

I got the rear doors done and they close real nice with the addition of good check straps.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Next time before trying to uncrew anything, take an allen driver (or allen wrench), place it in each screw and smack it a few times with a hammer. It shocks the screw enough to break the bond formed by any corrosion/dirt.

I've used this method with much success and only rarely need to use any additional tools/methods to remove a screw from the door strikers.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

That was the first thing I tried on all the bolts. It didn't seem to help in my case.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

I've only stripped 1 head. An easy out took care of it. I did use pbblaster.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

A screw gun with an adjustable clutch works great on this kind of stuff too.
Just slowly increase the clutch setting as you go. Works like a gentle impact wrench.

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker