Got the 1985 300TDT
 

I am at relatives, so have limited access especially for media. Anyway, finally got the 1985 300TDT and really like it. Does have a list of things to sort, the first being the random lack of turn signals. When they quit, working the hazard switch restores them. What is going on?

Also need help on:

Sun roof leak. Drains are clean, so figure have to use some high temperature R.T.V. and glue the plastic tubes to the metal. Seems theses Golde sun roofs are super prone to leak, as the one on the Volkswagen leaks in the same one! Does anyone have a better solution?

Replace the seals on the reverse lights, if still available. Anyone have a preferred source?

Is there any way to repair the vent closing mechanism? The passenger outside no longer screws closed, but can be pushed almost closed.

I also like to take the slop out of the accelerator linkage. I have the fore-aft slop figured out how to resolve, it is also the pedal stop and bushings. The former I doubt I will touch, but the latter I like to replace the bushings, but not finding a source. Do any of you do?

The rest is just up keep, including preferences. The wipers are starting to go bad, and doubt they be good in a down pour. So, will replace with Rain-X Latitudes which I have had much better results than the conventional type.

Also, like to find a bean cup holder like Vater got in the 1980's but not having any luck. What do you all use?

Plus, need to get a dash pad to protect the almost crack free dash (one 6mm crack by the passenger speaker).

Thank you for any help! :D

Nice, post some pics when possible.

Well, here is from the prior owner: 1985 300TDT Photos by tramandbixrule | Photobucket

Not sure these work or not...

They tried to fix the driver's seat, but of the opinion they made it worse. I was going to save up for sheep skins, so doesn't matter anyway. At least the bottom is new, so no listing or sagging. I really do like the shape of the late W123 seats!

Great looking car.

We were looking for wagon, settled on a sedan. There is a dark blue 300d wagon about 10 miles from here that just sits along side a state highway. We have stopped in but not for sale. Rarely moves.

Thank you! You should see her since she has been detailed! Such a pretty gal! Only a few minor dings, one of which is in the driver's side rear arch trim and the most visible. Man the steel is thick!

Now if I could get the other stuff resolved... It might rain tonight into next week. Tomorrow I have Wreaths Across America in the morning then church Sunday if I can find one (away from home in the Chico area).

Same issue here. I have just been dealing with it whenever it happens. Maybe once in a blue moon it happens. Just long enough to where I forget that the hazard switch is the culprit and give it a workout to fix the blinkers. I reckon cleaning the switch or just replacing it would fix the problem.

Pretty wagon...I have your twin....well two years older but they look like they could be family!

I was thinking cleaning too! Any tricks on removing it? Doubt one could still get a German switch, but if they could for a reasonable amount, I would, as the symbol is warn off unlike the rest.

Thank you! Have a link to yours?

I will say next few years I am going to be saving up for re-paint per Tram's suggestion. Very expensive so will put it off as long as possible. But, have decided I am going to change it to moss green except keep the white roof. Not sure what color caps, unless I can find some 15" Centra wheels I can afford. If I did go 15", it open the options on W126 brakes, so putting that off for a long time. I live in flat land most of the time, so no point now.

Aunt is calling me to dinner, so time to sign off.

On my Vw if the four way flasher switch gets disconnected the blinkers don't work. I bet you MB is similar.
Might take the four way flasher switch out and clean and maybe tighten the contacts.

Probably 90% of the parts for these cars are still available new from MB or aftermarket and most of the rest can be found used. This website is your friend! Your hazard switch is available here at Pelican Parts from 3 different sources including MB and is part number 000-820-90-10. I would try cleaning it first with electrical contact cleaner. Good luck....nice car!
John

Nice wagon, and welcome to the forum! The turn signals and flashers run off the same relay. Which is hidden under the wood trim on the center console. I'd take the relay out and clean the plug and prongs. To get the wood center console off, you have to remove the ashtray. Then remove the two screws that hold the metal ashtray bracket in. This will release the front edge of the console. Then pull the whole wood piece towards the rear of the car. Then it will come loose and you can look around under neath for the relay. I believe it's in front of the gear selector. Don't just pull up on the rear of the wood trim. There is a plastic clip that will break off if you do and it will never go back in completely. If it's not that it could be the combo switch on the steering column. Might get lucky and have a loose wire.

Also have read through the link below. Your ways has a rear Self-Leveling-System. Which keeps the rear at proper ride height, when you load it down with stuff. The system is great and works really well, but some of the parts can be expensive to replace. Fortunately the expensive parts aren't often what need replacing.:D
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/271570-self-leveling-system-how-works-troubleshooting-system.html

John, thank you!

90 percent means 10 percent is not available, like the linkage bushings. It frustrates me these high wear items are N.L.A.. Used be a waste as most be warn out. Just going to think up a creative solution.

Yes, this site is my friend, thus why I joined! ;)

Thank you!

I will look into that and thank you for the tips. Sounds like I need to get in touch with my particular side.

But, I feel now they work for now, really need to address the water incursion, especially since it is raining and will continue until next week. Seems you all aprove of the high temperature R.T.V. so will look in the tool kit and see if I have what it takes to drop all the delicate trim. If so, then off to the F.L.A.P.S..

I know about the S.L.S. and have read a lot including the sticky. Most of the S.L.S. parts were replaced, including just recently the ball joints. I do however have to keep clean fluid in it and change the filter on a regular basis. ;)

In the engine bay, there is an adjustment to take play out of the throttle linkage. It is a slot in a plate that can rotate once you loosen the bolt. Hope you aren't at the end of the slot already. In my 85, on the firewall is a rubber throttle shaft isolator that split, so my pedal no longer rotated the shaft much. New ones are $75, so I removed it and wrapped with steel wire and a hose clamp, which worked fine for years. I got a replacement at the junkyard a month ago.

A few other things I am just learning. To stop engine shaking at idle, adjust the "rack damper" bolt at the rear of the injection pump (search posts). Your 85 should already have the longer bolt, so should be able to screw it in more, after loosening the lock nut. Often the air cleaner bracket is cracked from shaking. You can get new ones now for $16. Used to be >$100. You can simplify your vacuum system by eliminating the EGR controls. Your EGR valve may no longer work anyway.

Tram said not to mess with ANY adjustment as then the kick-down switch will not operate. What I might do is find how much slop is actually needed by going to the full throttle stop and then seeing when the kick-down switch engages.

Here is a video I did for him:
2012 12 13 16 09 20 9751 - YouTube
The only correction I would say is instead of spacer at the ark, instead put behind the clip by the firewall.

The firewall bushing is fine. It is the bushings in the linkage I need. I did a search in several places and doesn't bring up anything. I will ask the Classic Center once I have the bread to join the Mercedes Club of America.

The slop is about a quarter pedal and be happy if all I could reduce it to is 3/16 if that is what it had to be. I just want it the tightest possible.

I also want to make only one trip to the F.L.A.P.S., so going to pull the trim first in case I need something else.

Tram did go through EVERYTHING so doubt I need to do it for a bit. He also does not want me to touch the smog equipment, but what good is it when it only causes reliability issues? So the E.G.R. will be eliminated and vacuum going to the, the name escapes me, the thing that limits the boost and can cause the wine I am experiencing. Plus, think I am going to test and adjust if needed the turbo and maybe shimming the A.L.D.A. for more power, which means to a point better fuel economy.

Hey Adriel:

Good to see you "getting into" the car.:D

Yeah, sorry the seat didn't turn out better, but a couple of the cracks suddenly got much worse, so something had to be done. I'm keeping my eye out for a good used seat bottom cover for you.

I think you'll be fine with cleaning the hazard switch, also. Like I said in our Email stream, it's in a bad spot- especially when you have a pup- they love to stand on the console and work the windows and the flasher!

Now, as to "not touching" the linkage... I think from what we discussed and you responded, that you're going to mark original positions and not just adjust willy- nilly, so have at it. Just try to do it logically, and do things a little at a time... "less is more".

Incidentally, the injection pump actually has a brand- new rack damper bolt, and it needed to be screwed in all the way. The new one required to be screwed in farther than the old one- which I just replaced because it was original! For a Diesel, that one idles smoother than most others I've serviced and driven, even with it in gear at full op temp even with the A/c at full cold.

Anyhow- enjoy the car, and let me know when you get back home- I have another box of spare parts to assemble and get off to you.

I have to say that, so far, that 300TDT was the best car we've ever owned overall. Annette loves the "new" E320 4Matic wagon, but time will tell if it is as tough and reliable as the old W123.

if you need anything else... yell.

Oh, just one more thing... Traditionally, M-B matched the wheel covers to the top on two- tone cars, so if you leave the top white and paint the body moss green eventually... Problem solved!