Help me decide on an engine
 

Over the past couple days, I have been asking various questions regarding the the OM606.962 engine, and I was pretty set with using it for my next project.

However, I have been going over my project plan and revising it little by little to better fit the goals of the project.

A little background on the project: I plan on rebuilding my 1988 Jeep Wrangler from the ground up. I want to make it as simple of a machine as possible - pretty much utilitarian, but with some conveniences such as heat, A/C, and a radio.

That being said, this is what I am looking for in an engine.

Simple and mechanical – something that doesn’t need an ECU to operate. I basically want this engine to run with only having a wire to hook up to the starter.
I am looking for something that is reliable and reasonably fuel efficient.

I would like to achieve a minimum of 250HP at the crank, but more preferably at the wheels.

OM617.95X? OM602.96X/OM602.98X?

I know I would have to do work to the IP, turbo, manifold, exhaust, intercooler, etc. What more specifically would be involved?
Any machining work? Would I be able to use the stock IP that comes on the engine and just upgrade the elements? Is this something I can do in the states or is this something that I have to send out overseas?

I’ve searched a few different forums and I am trying to gather as much information as I possibly.
What can I source from here, what do I need to source from out of the country, what parts/components do I need to grab off of the donor vehicle to make everything work, etc.

I’ve owned 3 diesel vehicles, and although I am familiar with them, I have never really worked on them. Most of my experience with engines is with working on ATV, motorcycle, snowmobile, and small Briggs & Stratton type of engines.

Any information that you have to share is greatly appreciated. Links to specific builds would be helpful as well if you know of any off the top of your head.
I will continue searching myself, and I hope that in the end I can compile and share a list of all of the components and modifications needed for such a build...unless someone all ready has one somewhere...

None of those engines will get you 200+ with dependability!

I like the OM602 engines for swaps due to its size. But more like 150HP max

150HP might be an option, but I don't know if I would be happy with it. What would be involved with building up a 602 to 150HP?

I-5 configuration is nice because of the size and weight, but I do have the space to fit an I-6. Is there anything out there available in an I-6 configuration that would lend itself to a fully mechanical non-ECU set up, and still be able to reliably meet my goals?

No matter what you choose, you'll have to do a minimum of:

Custom intake and exhaust manifolds. (Possibly use the stock exhaust if it has a T3 flange).
Injection pump rebuild with larger pump elements. 7mm would be ideal. You can "turn up" a pump and get more fuel but the injection event becomes so long that you're still pushing fuel into the cylinder well into the power stroke and creating smoke and heat instead of power.
Larger turbo.

Side by side, the 602 or 603 is a more economical option. Always go for larger displacement if you have room for it.

For comparison:

OM602/603
Pump - $$ to rebuild pump with larger elements
Exhaust manifold - may be able to use stock.
Intake manifold - needs modifications.
Turbo - $$

OM606.962
Pump - $$$ to purchase a 603 pump and rebuild with 7mm elements. (stock pump is EDC)
Exhaust manifold - $$$ custom.
Intake manifold - may be able to use stock.
Turbo - $$

If it was me, on a Jeep, I'd use the 603.

Thanks Evan.

Which would be the best option as far as a 603 is concernced? 3.0L with a head off of a 3.5L? Any specific years to look for? I know some 603s are prone to certain issues.

Because the IP was made for the specific engine, is it something where I could swap out the elements myself and just be able to adjust the load to meet the requirements of my build? I'm assuming I wouldn't need any modifications of the camshaft? Or is this something that would still need to be sent out to Finland to get set up correctly?

Modified and custom manifolds aren't an issue. I have the tools needed to tackle that job, and I've fabricated a few custom headers, so I'm familiar with how painful that process can be some times. The process is a lot less painful with a proper work table and jig, that's for sure.

Remember, diesel HP feels much stronger than gas hp. My 110hp(est) 300D felt much faster than my 110hp(est) Ranger.

I can't comment on the newer engines. If you want cheap, slow, and heavy the 617 is always an option :D (I love my 617 but I'm only just now starting to creep into 60X power territory-Guestimated maybe 150hp with the methanol spraying. Maybe.)

Overall vehicle weight, torque, type of transmission, and gearing play a role into that as well. With proper set-up, 150HP should be able to get me around just fine, but I still would like that little extra.

200HP with 300 lb ft of torque is my minimum goal, but I would much more prefer 250HP with 450 lb ft of torque.

There are a few other things to take into consideration that might sway me towards a less powerful engine - such as engine weight, reliability, and ease of maintenance.

Is a 602 capable of delivering 300 lb ft of torque reliably at 150ish horsepower? If so, I would consider it for this application.

And which one would be more desirable? 2.5L or 2.9L, and which year/car model?
I read that some later versions of the 2.9L use a Bosch VE-style rotary distributor injection pump with electronic control. Was this only in the sprinter vans? I would like to avoid those as I would like to go fully mechanical as mentioned in my posts above.

Sorry for all of the posts. My mind races at a million miles per second when I get excited about certain things...

Correct me if I'm wrong...

An OM603 is capable of producing nearly 200HP with the stock IP?
What about swapping in the 6mm elements out of 606 IP?

OM603 engine
6mm elements (or 7.5mm elements since it's probably less expensive to buy these seperately than it is to buy or find a donor OM606 IP)
HY35 turbo
Intercooler
Custom manifolds

What kind of numbers could I expect? 275ish HP?
I would like to do all of the work myself, and/or with the help of a couple somewhat local diesel tuner friends. I'm sure I can find someone in the states to do the bench tuning with the larger elements.

With the 603, aren't there electronic controls for engine idle and a few other things? Can I make due without these items? Wouldn't removal of an electronic engine idle controller affect the engine revs when the AC pump kicks on? Is there a way to bypass this issue, other than not having AC?
I'll keep the electronics if needed, and I'm sure it's one of those things I will figure out once I get into it and actually start working on it.

603 won't make 200HP on the stock 5.5mm elements, you'll need the 6mm. Used 6mm not impossible to find.

250HP is pushing the efficiency limits of the 6MM unless you want a smoking pig. 7 or 7.5 are preferable to keep the injection event as short as possible.

Your biggest expense is going to be the pump, not only are the elements fairly expensive but you'll need a full calibration once they're swapped in which will run north of $700. More if you get someone in Europe to do the work. Often, it's best to simply buy a fully prepped pump from someone like Myna or Dleselmeken. They will pre adjust the pump to your HP requirements too.

As for the idle control solenoid, I think on this pump, it's simply a switch on and off. There's also a rack position sensor but I'm not sure it's actually needed in your application.

If I pay to have Myan or Dieselmeken to provide me with a prepped pump, I might as well as go to as much horsepower as reliability will allow me to go without having to beef up the internals. With the OM603, I have read a few different contradiciting articles - Is the limit of reliability at 300HP for these engines, or 400HP? I know much more power than that is possible, but I want to keep this as a daily driver. With such horsepower numbers, what would the approximate torque be? I want to make sure I get a transmission that can handle the power without issues.

Myna is in Finland and Dieselmeken is in Sweden, right? Do they require a core sent over to them, or can I just simply order one? Roughly $2,300ish in cost to get a prepped pump built and shipped here, correct?

Talk to Dieselmeken, he's on here and superturbo.

A 300HP motor doesn't always run at 300hp....so you'll only be stressing the driveline when you goose it.

What concerns me is when I am out on a trail on some rocks or other technicall terrain, and I decide to get on the throttle...especially with the larger tires and lower gears in the axle. I just want to make sure what torque numbers I can anticipate so I can size and build everything (transmission, axles) correctly in the beginning and not have to worry about it later.

I could just overbuild everything, but then that adds a lot of weight that I don't need or want, and it definately makes the wallet a lot thinner. If I build the transmission to handle 500 ft lbs of torque, do you think that would be enough to not cause any issues with a 300HP OM603 engine?

You can go two ways:

Buy a 1 ton GM chassis with solid axles and a SM465/NP205. Chop the frame to fit your Wrangler body, adapt the engine, and you're set.

or

Work with what you've got until you break it. There are plenty of Jeep->GM/Ford adapters out there, so when you cook the Jeep stuff a heavier upgrade shouldn't be terribly complicated.

I was planning on using the stock frame and reinforcing/stiffening it. As for running gear, I sold off a lot of the parts years ago.

Initial plans as of now are to run a built up TH700R4 transmission with a STaK Monster Box 3 for the transfer case. For axles, Dana 44s off of a Grand Wagoneer with a Jana K4 kit using either 33 or 35 spline alloy shafts and ARB air locker.
305/70R17 Tires.

I wouldn't mind a manual transmission, I would just prefer to work with an automatic for this application.