Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-29-2002, 04:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Trans Pull Out 1979 123 300 Td Wagon

This is my parts wagon,,, I can not figure out how to get to the top bolt keeping the transmission on the engine.... I just don't see enough clearance... does this mean I have to pull the engine to get to it ? Haynes says it can be dropped out from underneath.. but does not say how to get to that bolt... I don't see any access hole through the firewall... just hoping .... Thanks, Greg

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-29-2002, 05:57 PM
Mtrdoctor12
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I have been successful by dropping the rear transmission mount and using a long swivel extension and swivel socket. I guess I'm a little spoiled cuase when I do most of my work I have a lift available. It is so sweet. Done to much of iy on the floore with a creeper
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-29-2002, 07:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Thanks, I am working on the ground..... but that indicates the Engine will pivot a lot on its front mount... I will try that..... Greg
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-29-2002, 07:15 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: San Antone
Posts: 408
Greg:

You'll probably want to loosen the front engine mounting bolt a turn or possibly two to let the engine pivot a little easier and put less strain on the mount. I'm talking about the allen head bolt that you get to from under the engine - as I recall it is a 8mm allen head. The trans weighs 115 pounds without fluid, add 25 pounds for the torque converter also without fluid.

Good Luck!!
Tom
__________________
America: Land of the Free!

1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
Shop Foreman;
Technical Advisor to Am. Honda;
Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-29-2002, 10:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
That little Kiss on the front end of my parts car broken the right engine mount... so I had to cut it ( that aluminum does not want to cut) (oxy-acet).... I had taken the front off in front of the engine so we just pulled it straight out the front.. but on groud that is not easy..... the bolts that hold the starter on are allen also... bummer ....finished at 9:15 tonight... Thanks Mtrdoctor and Tom...
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-30-2002, 01:38 AM
Dirty Ern
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I know I'm about a day late here, but I'd like to throw my two cents in here. At least next time you might remember when your in the same pinch.
I did the engine out trick/leave the tranny in. If I remember right, there are two bolts about 6 or 8 inches apart across the top of the engine. I took about four feet of 1/2" drive extensions and snaked it up along side the top of the transmission to the head of the bolts in question. So now your breaker bar or ratchet is some where near the tail end of the tranny. It's better to use 3 or 4 shorter extensions than a couple of long ones. This way the shorties make a slight arc and afford somewhat of a swivle. Next time give it a try.
Ernie
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-30-2002, 06:13 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Dirty Ern, yeah , where were you when I needed you ? and who in the world owns FOUR FEET worth of extensions..? I own about three but I say they should have provided passenger compartment access to those two or placed them differently... Greg
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-30-2002, 07:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
That's the way I did it (extra extensions). Geting some wobble extensions will help.

P E H
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-30-2002, 07:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
OK,OK, I AM OBVIOUSLY EXTENSION DEFICIENT AND WILL CORRECT THE SITUATION.... Greg
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-30-2002, 08:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 502
upper engine bolts

Guys,

Came across this thread very late in the game. I've a 240D with a 300D engine in it and it's down right easy to get at those two bolts because there's no sound deadening right there. On the other hand my son's 300Turbo Diesel has the sound deadening and it's nearly impossible. Maybe one needs to cut out some of that 3/4 inch thick material mext time. Liked the idea of four feet of extensions as we're converting another auto tranny to manual in a turbo.

Ben
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-30-2002, 08:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Ridge, There is no sound deadening between the metal of the firewall and the engine... so maybe on the turbo they built more into the firewall and moved the metal forward....
A major problem for the wagon is the placement of the Sway bar... I don't know how your car is made ,, but that sway bar is really in the way for someone wanting to have a meaningfull relationship with those two bolts.... Greg
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-31-2002, 12:04 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: San Antone
Posts: 408
Greg:

All I can say about those two bolts is that any meaningful relationship should be very, very short with the least amount of conflict!! Glad to hear you guys got that engine out, working on the ground is no fun (way too many push-ups). I guess the side with the problem engine mount was pretty bad preventing unbolting the mount from the engine - must have been fun cutting that aluminum (this from one who's seen that horror movie a time or two or three!!). Is this the engine you're going to power your welding rig with? Don't feel bad about about being extension "deficient" (actually "challenged" is the PC term) I could probably get 2 1/2 feet using all of my 3/8 and 1/2 extensions connected with an adapter!!

My, as usual, very cheap $0.02 worth!
Tom
__________________
America: Land of the Free!

1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
Shop Foreman;
Technical Advisor to Am. Honda;
Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-31-2002, 12:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
Ridge,

What engine and car are you converting to a manual shift?

What transmission and bell housing are you planning to use?

P E H
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-31-2002, 09:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Tom, the hole accessing the engine mount is not much bigger than the tool you need to put through it... and it is a little distance there so it did not take much movement to make it where I needed to cut it... At first I thought it was going to turn out to be a solid piece of aluminum... if it had been I would have been in big trouble ..I feel better now , I was only counting half/inch drive extensions... I have decided that I am too old for that getting up and down... and low crawling under the car on my back with only my shoulder blades for propulsion.... It was very helpful to have Bill available for handing tools to me... Yes, this is the engine I am planning on using for welder,pump,generator,sprayer,? ...Greg
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-31-2002, 11:45 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
Posts: 2,225
Snap-on sells a long extension that allows you to enter at the tranny tail shaft.The one end is a 1/2 inch drive and it tapers to a 3/8 inch drive at the socket end. Use a good quality (nothing that says Taiwan on it)17 mm wobbly for the tranny bolts and a plain 1/2 inch wobbly with a 10 mm allen socket for the starter bolts. This long one piece extension gives you the 1/2 inch breaker bar muscle you need at one end and the 3/8 inch flexibility you need at the other end.I hope snap-on still makes the tool;I bought mine about 25 years ago.The key is to use good quality tools like snap-on which,in my opinion,is the second best quality made tool in the world.Hope this helps.This extension makes the job a cakewalk.

Good luck,
Peter

__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
lens removal on a 123 wagon yellowmerc Diesel Discussion 0 03-27-2002 10:57 AM
123 wagon question Joseph Bauers Tech Help 3 12-05-2001 12:38 PM
Wanted: rear bumper for 123 wagon Joseph Bauers Mercedes-Benz Used Parts For Sale & Wanted 5 11-12-2001 12:27 PM
Lowering a 123 series 300 D Robby Ackerman Tech Help 2 05-18-2001 02:11 PM
Lowering a 123 series 300 D Robby Ackerman Diesel Discussion 3 05-17-2001 10:45 PM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page