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  #121  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:17 PM
Delibes's Avatar
Drat, double drat!
 
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Congratulations on this nice surprise! Phew! Thank goodness it wasn't anything serious. Still, with that amount of blow-by, start keeping an eye out for a decent engine. The non-turbos should be pretty cheap.
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  #122  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:18 PM
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I've seen worse blowby on engines that started and ran fine.
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1985 300TD 185k+
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  #123  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:28 PM
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Might be worth setting up a water+methanol injection system on it if you plan ti keep it for a while. It's get those combustion chambers squeaky clean.
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  #124  
Old 01-21-2013, 08:20 PM
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NICE!!
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  #125  
Old 01-21-2013, 11:09 PM
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Not so amused
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Congratulations on sticking with it. You da man, dude

I had a feeling it would get going eventually, but from what you're saying so far it sounds like it's better than we could have hoped.

I bought a 300sd as a parts car outside Boston some years ago that both the dealer and an indy had pronounced having a dead engine. I got it going and ended up needing the motor for my w116 when it broke its chain.

That motor, which was pronounced dead, has now been on the road again for 12 years and is now powering yet another chassis after the SD rotted away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I've seen worse blowby on engines that started and ran fine.
x2. He lives in AZ, not Vermont. It may start fine from now on, with healthy GPs, proper cranking speed, and synthetic in the pan over the cold months (or alternatively a heat source on the motor, block heater or pan pad, should suffice).

My black '83 SD had at least that much blowby on its original engine and it made it through a Canadian northeast winter, though when we got temps similar to the current deep freeze (-24 C / -10 F) I had to leave it idle at night as it didn't have a functional block heater.
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Last edited by Zacharias; 01-21-2013 at 11:20 PM.
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  #126  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:27 PM
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Well went out earlier, let the glows cycle just once and she popped right off. Its 40 degrees out when I started her. I don't think I will be having any more problems starting her. Got very little smoke out the rear this start too. Went out and filled her up, so now I will work on her steering. The fluid is black, return line cracked and tie rod boots are torn....when your driving you have to hold the steering wheel at an angle to drive straight...not to fun
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  #127  
Old 01-23-2013, 11:25 AM
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Sounds like the tie rods werent replaced properly ,this will give you a misalignment right quick.When replacing I have a trick that works everytime ,I place the tie rod assembly on a board ,mark the center of the back of the tie rod ball with a sharpie,then mark the board to its center marking ,do the same with the new assmbly using the boards marks, this will give the replacment tie rod the same length as the one being replaced.Its usually recommended to get a new alignment done when opening up the alignment ,I usually can get away with out this step if I can get the exact length as the worn rods.
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  #128  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:10 PM
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Sounds like it would be very accurate if due dilligence is exercised. Scribing a line on the lower ball joint containment perpendicular to the rod portion accuratly on both should not be hard.

Will be very accurate I would think as long as the base of the ball socket is concentric. Plus if you are replacing two or even just one tie rod end you are not going to drift the steering wheel centering off.
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  #129  
Old 01-23-2013, 01:07 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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That is good news!
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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