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#46
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Answer
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Prestart oil prime of a long storage engine can save your bearings and bank account. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#47
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If you're filling the housing for the purpose of filling the galleries, then have at it. That's not what I took you to task for. Quote:
Quote:
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The OP stated: Quote:
Unlike yourself, I thought about his situation before posting random information about other engines that I rebuilt that have little relevance in this situation. I considered the likelihood of a clogged pickup screen which developed from the time he removed the engine until the time he installed the engine. You'll note that he did not rebuild the engine in any way. It seemed highly unlikely to me and, therefore, I made the suggestion that a clog in the pickup screen which would completely prevent oil flow wasn't the cause of his failure to develop pressure. You may differ in that opinion and suggest that he drop the lower pan and check. That's what is excellent about opposing opinions that are both valid. We get to see the outcome and one of us will be incorrect. I would have thought that a professional mechanic with 40 years experience would have considered this as well, but............apparently not. However, what is absolutely not incorrect, despite your "40 years experience as a mechanic including 2 years of Vo Tech auto mechanics, and have worked on just about every car you can name plus a lot of other engines including some heavy diesels, aircraft and exotic cars" is the fact that you cannot fill a 617 oil filter housing and get the cover in place before 90% of it drains down into the pan. Quote:
Oh, I didn't take "all day" to change plugs on the van. That would be another factually incorrect statement on your part. I'm going on three weeks with no sign of completion. So, if you want to insult me for the time it takes me to reverse an impossibly bad design by Chrysler, at least get your facts straight. My ailing knee with the 30 degree temperatures around here slow me down quite a bit. Maybe you can use the bad knee as additional fodder for my lack of capability and divert the attention from your factually incorrect statements regarding this specific engine. Last edited by Brian Carlton; 01-03-2013 at 10:44 AM. |
#48
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Thanks
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The valves can become gummed and covered with sediment, holding them open. I have been forced to remove the oil filter housing from many engines, because they do not hold/retain the required oil in this area: per design intent. The valves are not a tight seal, and will leak down, when new it took several days, now I am will accept one hour (if the engine is primed). Disassembly and cleaning is not difficult. Removal of the oil filter housing from some engines involves serious creative cursing and blood. Depending on circumstances, the housing can normally retain one quart + whats draining from the oil cooler lines. Plan to make a mess and be happy if yours is easy. The gasket between oil filter housing and engine block is an age related failure = this gasket MUST be replaced at this time, NEVER re-used. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#49
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Stop
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The problem is extreme corrosion and limited access. We have discussed this on the phone, several times. I could do the job faster, special tools and more experience gained at great pain. Given his working outside in frigid weather, health issues, etc, the job is proceeding at the best possible pace. If you want more detail, call me, but don't try to use this as an insult. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#50
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Gadzooks
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It was an FYI to go with the graphic, nothing more. Look at post# 46...... Do you see the link ? Please take a look at this thread Prestart oil prime of a long storage engine can save your bearings and bank account. There is IMO only one reasonable, correct, safe way to assuredly pressurize the oil gallery and bearings without using the engine oil pump, and the oil drain plug must be removed, or you will over fill the crankcase. I am setup to do this, as I try to keep at least five engines ready to install, on the shelf. The engine may set three years before use, and I pressurize the oil gallery and bearings before it goes in the body. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#51
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I'm perfectly calm, thanks, and I read the post completely. I was refuting the suggestion that the oil sending unit be removed to allow the galleries to be filled. As you know, getting the sending unit off the filter housing with the housing in place is effectively impossible. It seemed a bit ridiculous to me to remove the oil filter housing for that purpose. Your post further confirms that such an approach would not work in any case. Clearly, you have utilized special equipment to be assured that the galleries are filled. |
#52
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Ugg
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I have no issue removing the sender unit, some from the top and some from under the vehicle = they all come off without special tools. The 300D and earlier mechanical gauge engines: I remove the oil pressure tube from the filter housing, pressurizing through the port. W116 300SD, W126 300SD and later electrical oil sender is accessible for the exact same procedure. Some of the OM60x engines are a bit more fun because the only easy access is from under the car. Once you figure out the correct access thirty minutes should have everything ready. Then all you need is a pressure port adapter and crush washer. My most commonly used one is made from a new OM616/617 engine oil pan drain plug, center bored and tapped for 1/8 pipe + a crush washer. You should check that your sensor thread matches the drain plug before spending time fabricating this adapter. You check the thread by eye, and you can try screwing the sensor into the drain plug hole. I have several different plumbing and pump rigs. If you want a guage to watch, the minimum number is 7-9 psi, anything higher is good up to 44 psi. Removing the oil filter housing is on some engines (in car) almost a blood ritual, and I was pointing out maintenance you want to do while it is out = so you do not need to remove it again for many years. .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 01-03-2013 at 08:46 PM. |
#53
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Well, all I can say is that you're very skilled in getting into spaces that would be ridiculous for the average mechanic. That sending unit is wedged behind the housing right against the firewall on the W126. How you could possibly adapt a fitting to get into that space is simply beyond me.
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#54
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Greetings all- Thanks for the help.
Thank you Whunter for that link. I did read it while researching before starting this thread, and I appreciate the reminder. I've procured/built my oil pre-lube system and will be proceeding this weekend. 25 degrees and fading daylight at the moment..... This engine is mounted in a 1990 Toyota pickup, in place of the 3.0 liter V6. I have no experience working on this motor in an MBZ car, but in my particular application there is PLENTY of room to access the oil pressure sender. My plan is to remove the current oil pressure sender line, plumb in the pre-lube pump, drain the oil that's in the sump now, and start pumping oil in through the oil pressure sender port. When oil starts dripping out of the drain plug hole again, I'll spin the engine by hand a few times, then plug the drain hole and refill. Remove prelube pump, reinstall pressure gauge line, proceed w/ startup. Thank you for the tip about the drilled out + retapped drain plug. I used an Equus gauge adapter, and Equus drilled the hole through the center so large that the walls are ridiculously thin. I can barely apply any torque before it snaps off - ask me how I know. Thanks again, folks. Keep the info coming. We ever get together in person, the first round is on me. Last edited by OM617YOTA; 01-03-2013 at 09:52 PM. |
#55
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Thats quite an achievement, your obviously not a rookie at that stuff. I for one will be watching to see how it works out, as im sure many others here will as well.
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#56
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Just an update.
I got the oil prelube system built, got the engine prelubed, reassembled all the plumbing, and attempted to start the engine. The battery I was using wasn't up to the task, even with the battery charger connected. Worked fine for rotating engine w/ the glow plugs out for bleeding injectors and such, and just wasn't up to cranking against full compression w/ glow plugs running. Engine made maybe two rotations before the battery conked out. I have other vehicles I can use for a jump start, along with real jumper cables, and had planned on replacing the current battery with an Optima all along........ Anyway, life threw a curve ball at me, and temporary health issues prevent me from continuing this project at the moment. As soon as I'm back on my feet I'll be back at it. Thanks again all for the advice and warm words. |
#57
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Get well soon and then get some pictures up of the work you've done so far - I'm sure lots of people here would like to see your achievements to date.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#58
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Got an update, folks.
I built the prelube system and employed it, got everything nice and oily, put everything back together. Filled the cooling system. Moment of truth! Hit the glow plug button for 30 seconds or so, then cranked her over. Crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank. Nada. Nothing. Not a cough, no poof, no mist out the exhaust, nothing. Come back here, double check that I bled injectors right. Yep I did, at least in theory. Complete lack of any response coupled with the engine having run just fine before I bought it seems to me to indicate that I didn't actually bleed the injectors well enough. What's the best way to do it? I purged the filters with the hand primer pump until fuel and no air came out the return line, then cracked open the injector lines at the injectors and cranked until fuel started coming out of those lines. Probably a tablespoon of fuel out of each injector line, is that enough to make sure the air is out of the system, or should I do more? I've bled old tractors before. Had someone lean on the starter button while loosening the injector lines one at a time. Bunch of foamy diesel would come out and then when it ran clear you'd tighten the line back down and the engine would run on that one cylinder. On to the next. Shakey mess towards the end when you had 3 or 4 cylinders out of a 6 cylinder engine running while bleeding the last couple injectors. Are these motors the same way? Thanks again all. I'll get photos up soon. Kind of embarrassed by my gravel floor "garage", but what the heck. |
#59
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After you are sure that the secondary filter is full and you've pumped as many times as you can really be bothered on the hand pump and there's still no joy...
...You need a strong battery but bleeding by cracking the unions at the top of the injectors often helps.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#60
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The beast lives!
After mucho cranking and bleeding with no fire, I bought a diesel compression test. 140psi on cyl 1, 30-80psi on the remaining cylinders. WTF, how did I drive it around the lot? Yanked the valve cover, checked valve clearances, and found none. I could not fit my finest feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the cam on any valve. Reset valve clearances to proper specs, rechecked compression, well over 200psi on all cylinders. Still low for a diesel, but should fire her up if I get enough heat in the cylinders. Cranked some more, 7+ year old 650cca battery not up to snuff - no surprise. Replaced w/ brand new 850cca battery. Shazam, it starts! Beautiful sound! I especially like the exhaust note out of the 2 1/4" straight pipe. Can't wait to hear the turbo through it while cruising down the road. Note: I should recheck the compression w/ the new battery. Cranks MUCH faster now. And last but not least, oil pressure indeed came up a few seconds after starting. 90+ psi, good to go. Thanks all for the help and support. This concludes my oil pressure dilemma, and future episodes in the OM617 Yota swap series will be in new threads. Thank you all. Last edited by OM617YOTA; 03-18-2013 at 12:15 AM. |
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