Drivers door closes hard, 300D
 

Hi
Since I have had my car the drivers door closes hard. About half the time it has to be opened and slammed. The other three click shut.

I have had GM cars that have developed vertical play in them from worn plastic bushings. Tried shaking the open door up and down. I can not feel any looseness in it.

Surely someone here has a solution?

Loosen the striking plate on the door frame, just a bit.

I had the same problem with my 85 several years ago. fiddled with the Striker, even replaced the latch/lock assy in the door with another used one.

Finally went to my favorite MB shop at the time. the guy used an Acid brush and some grease to lube the latch assy, and it worked.
I had sprayed WD-40 in it and didn`t do anything.

I just keep it greased and it shuts good now.

I would see cars in PNP that worked better than mine. opened and closed like a Refridgerator.................I still see cars in there better than mine from time to time :rolleyes:.


Charlie

A simple thing to check:

If you have big feet like mine (and/or if the previous owner had big feet) the trim around the door opening at the bottom front corner of the door opening -- that is the plastic strip and the felt cover (if it's still present) -- tend to get pushed out of place, from your left foot bumping it every time you get out of the car.

When it is pushed out of place far enough, it can bind the door at the lower corner just enough to make it harder to close. I have to push mine back in place once every week or two.

Make sure that the plastic striker which is encased in the aluminum piece & held by 2 bolts is good. Look at the passenger door for reference. The door closes hard if the plastic is worn/gone. They are nearly free from a yard. Most/many MBZs of that ere use the same part.

Thanks Drivers,
I am going to check your suggestions out.
J.M. is that the plastic part on the door or the frame?

^^^ This


This is usually the issue. Have fun removing the drivers side door. I've stripped out all 4 bolts on the last 3 cars I've tried to remove the drivers side from.

Next time I am going to remove the B pillar trim and shoot some Kroil from the back side to get at the threads since there is no way from the front.

See door lock striker here:

1983 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan - Panels & Doors - Page 1

The problem plastic piece is at the bottom side of the striker. It trips the door latch when the door closes.

The plastic part is available on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Locking-Eye-Repair-Kits-Mercedes-Benz-W123-230-280CE-TD-/130823468222?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e75afb4be&vxp=mtr

I have to admit I have looked at the striker part but not studied it carefully. It is a tab at the bottom of that box that wears?

Thx

I would also like to say:
If it wasn't for the good nature and knowledge of the people here many problems would be very occult and hard to fix.

I am not a full time mechanic. Just trying to keep the old stuff running. It is the accumulated diagnostic ability that makes a difference.

As others have already mentioned. This is a fairly common failure on the striker. There is a little plastic "tongue" that breaks off. Once that piece is gone, it will take repeated attempts to close the door (including slamming).

I did this repair a while back. Here is that thread and some pics of the issue. Click on the link below.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/268265-door-striker.html

Next time use a torch with a pencil flame and heat the heads of the four screws prior to any removal attempt. All you need to do is to lengthen the screw very slightly and it won't be held with any force whatsoever.

Be careful of the paint.

I had (have) a similar problem. My '83 300cd drv door got very hard to close while still open 6" - 12" from closed. The thingie (!) that keeps the door from opening too far was jamming on something inside the door. I forced (no choice when far from home & tools) the door shut. & drive home. It was a sporadic problem, & I let it go. Finally (another time 15 miles from home) I removed the 'clevis pin' holding it to door jamb, & managed to push it in. Now the vacuum intermitantly bleeds down in a few minutes to not leaking at all. (It hasnt leaked down for a spell, so, I've let it go). I dont know if the two things are related.

It hasnt been this cold here, actually ever, that I recall. Too cold for an old man to be working outside, & no garage, so it'll have to wait. It snowed here the year I was born, but I dont recall that! I'll be 66 in 10 days. -corne-

You have 2 unrelated problems, one is the Door Check, and the other is a Vacuum leak somewhere in the system. you will need a Mity-Vac and start your search.

Good you disconnected the Door Check strap, keep forcing to work will eventually break the mount in the door post. replacing the check is easy after removing the door panel. just 3 10mm bolts. besides the clip on the pin, there is the plastic washer/spacer too, easy to over look when removing the pin.


Here is a link to the Door Check as well at the Door Strikers. Chec k is $17.50, forget the CRP & MTC that is the Chicom stuff.

Looks like the Strikers are $114.25 from the dealer, :eek: and the $14.00 after mkt.
1983 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan - Bumpers, Doors, Latches & Lids - Page 2

PNP still has some good parts left. :D


Charlie

I am going to try Charlie's advice as I see the pad that hits the latch.http://veloliner.com/mb/doorstriker.JPG
It might benefit from some aligning too as mentioned.
http://veloliner.com/mb/doorlatch.JPG
As usual any comments are appreciated.