60x Injector hard line broken, (by vibration) wtf?
 

Miraculously my #3 hard line started squirting back out the top. I tried tightening it down a bit wo luck. Suggestions?

A crack in the line beneath the nut.

Vibration eventually gets it.

Time for a replacement.

Some of us never get to witness a miracle. Consider yourself very fortunate.

Yeah..........a miracle that I'd rather avoid...........

which car? the 603 lines are notorious for this...
if it's for the 617, I've got plenty of spare lines... none for the 603 though.

The Hard Lines crack more frequently if the clamps that steady the hard Lines are missing or damaged.
With in a few months of buying My Car I bought an extra set of Hard Lines; just incase.

I dont have any 61xs any more.

Plus the lines are dainty and probably wall thickness is down on the 603 compared to 617.

considerably.
lets put it this way...
the ID is nearly the same on both years... :eek:

I just had to buy a new #4 line for my 603. Probably the same deal. Squirting up from the fitting. The clips that hold the line to stop vibration were broken. Lesson learned. It cost me ~$60 OTD to have the part in hand the next day from the local dealership.

I ordered all the clips and mounts, price was not cheap...

Answer
 

This is common with the OM60x engines.
The anti vibration clips fail or someone forgets to re-install them.

Normal engine vibration usually cracks the steel line at the compression nut.
Line repair is difficult or impossible.


.

I did this to my car (OM603.960), prior owner used zip ties and wire to hold hard lines in place.

The clips and pads are not exactly easy to install because they grab so tightly.

But once you do this you will be able to remove the line sets (1-3 and 4-6) as a unit if necessary.

Here are the parts for a 603 (h/t whunter)
Fuel Line Bracket 601-078-20-41-MBZ 2
Fuel Line Bracket 603-078-01-41-MBZ 6
Fuel Line Bracket 601-078-26-41-MBZ 4
Fuel Line Shim 601-078-04-86-MBZ 12

Here is a thread that has pics showing how to mount the clamps. Yes it says glow plugs but the subject came up in the thread.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/326478-glow-plugs.html#post3021080
The rubber pieces go between the hard line and the steel brackets. In some of the locations the pad needs to be trimmed to fit.

understatement of the year here...:mad:

well, which is it? :confused:
exactly HOW good are you with a mig?:D

Hmm
 

I know this was a chuckle, but I am going to answer it as a serious question.

Here is an example of a simple high pressure pipe weld.
Stick Welding 2 inch Pipe Cover Pass - 6g Pipe Welding Test 2" Schedule 80 - YouTube

The joint needs to be a single-Vee or a single-U...
http://www.me.metu.edu.tr/courses/me...weld_types.gif
.

As the pipe size gets smaller, the difficulty goes up.
* Heat control, burn holes.
* Collapsed tube.
* Blocked tube, penetration/slag.
* Grinding the outer diameter.
* Boring and cleaning the tube bore.
Then comes the fun.

You must use stress relieving, and I prefer annealing.

After welding, you can do high temp stress relieve at 1250° F, for 1-1.5 hr per inch of material thickness, 1 hour minimum, as opposed to a true anneal. Furnace cool if possible.

After welding low carbon steel (under 0.25 carbon) I usually normalize which helps "homogenize" the material.
To anneal then normalize is called "double draw", which is critical if you plan to carburize or do other heat treating later.

Annealing range for 1018 steel is 1575° F -1650° F. Time at temp 1/2 hr for small section (13 mm or less), 1 hr for 25mm section.
Recommended furnace cooling rate of 50° F/hr over range from 1575° F to 1300° F for HB 111-149.
(from metals handbook)

*********************************

From my cost perspective:
# 3-4 hours labor.
# Weld and Annealing furnace fuel $50.00
# Building a solid and safe (small) Annealing Furnace, $200.00 + 24 hours labor.

IMO all of this is possible for the most skilled professional or most tenacious hobbyist.
It is not cost effective.
A single mistake in any of these processes will frequently turn the (used part) work piece into scrap metal.
The failed line may have formed preliminary stress fractures on the other end, just waiting to break.


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I had the same problem this summer. it was the #4 for me.

I found a complete set of used lines. including ALL the brackets. (here in the for sale forum!!!)

It turns out I was missing a few.

replacment is your best bet. New from the dealer they were $60-$70 each!

If you weld a fuel line, you pretty much are going to get scale on the inside. This will end up clogging the nozzle & necessitate R&R'ing or at least cleaning that nozzle. 60 bucks is a one time fix.

I have both tig & mig, they are not perfect in the garage. -corne-

Well I just had this same thing happen to me yesterday while I was on a road trip. #3 started squirting fuel from the nut. First thing I noticed was a Loss of power then a minute or two later I could smell diesel. I just wanted to ask if this could of caused any other damage I didnt drive the car much further maybe 4 or 5 miles after I found it. Parts are on their way just nervous hoping that's all that broke.

Only additional damage is environmental. No mechanical damage from lack of fuel to one or more injectors.

I got behind a Nissan murano yesterday spilling gasoline from underneath every time he turned. Tried to catch him and tell him before the car went up in flames but he turned into a neighborhood and I lost him. I didn't see a fried car on my way to work today, so maybe he figured it out. God knows everyone behind him could smell it.

Hey Max would you go through the trouble of replacing all of the fuel lines & brackets? Contemplating replacing all of it.

Replace what's broken and move on with life. It's important to ensure that all of the plastic clips and rubber bumpers are in place on these engines. Missing plastic clips are a common problem and are likely the primary source of broken lines.

A pencil torch and thin brazing wire found at any hardware store will fix the crack. I have done this a number of times in the past. I still highly recommend getting a new line but for the time being it works. Better than a wobbly smelly drive!
Also yes, not having the lines clamped is absolutely why this happened and usually it happens pretty quickly. I have had three lines crack within a two week span before I realized the error in my ways.

Got to about 300k miles on my first 87 300d and three lines broke within a few hundred miles. Of course the clips were gone. I replace all of the lines and clips. And I'm going to do it on my new 87 now - preventative medicine. The clips on mine have been gone for years probably. Failure is predictable.