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  #1  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:59 PM
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a user called samiam said he made a similar thing for a W124 - and it worked very nicely.
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  #2  
Old 01-24-2013, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
a user called samiam said he made a similar thing for a W124 - and it worked very nicely.
Excellent pics!

I Also made one (I started off too long and kept cutting it back, never finished it and just installed the Joint without it) and found a thread where Dormison had Made one many years previous.

Several years a go there was some argued that the Steering Knuckle could not be fit on a Hydraulic Press so that the Ball Joint could be pressed out.
That idea has now been dis-proven!

Also you can get the C-Press from Autozone on a free Rental Basis.

For those who do not Weld or want to go through the trouble to make the Tool using LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder Ball Joints W123s if you are willing to remove the Boot from the Joint you can just use a Flat Washer with the Hole enlarged so it slide over the Joint Shaft and the C-Press.
In the Pic the Washer would go where the Red Arrows Point.
I manages to do it without the Washer but it clearly would have been better with a washer there as the Press wants to slide on the conical surface of the Ball Joint.

Removing the bottom Ball Joint Boot Spring was not Hard on the Lemforders as the Boot is made of some heavy Plastic and not likely to be get poked through by the spring.
After the Joint was In the Knuckle just put some more grease in the Boot and put it back on.
Attached Thumbnails
Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter-c-press-2-jan-13.jpg  
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Last edited by whunter; 01-24-2013 at 01:51 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2013, 12:54 PM
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yeah, I have generally removed the boot and used the press like in the above photo. Think I will try to make something like the adapter shown in the top pictures next time. Looks like a good tool. To remove the old ball joint, I generall use a 24 oz ball peen and then when it doesn't work a 48oz hand sledge. Trick I have found is to have the knuckle resting on something really solid. I have a solid piece of steel about 4in dia and 9 inches long-really heavy and doesn't get moved around easily by someone hammering on it. I of couse use lots of PB Blaster or the like. One time I was able to replace the ball joints on (I think) a 124 by setting the bottom of the joint (still in the arm) on a socket on the big piece of steel and pounding on arm. Joint popped out nicely. This was the one that failed as daughter backed the car into the driveway. Sometimes I just get lucky!
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BobK View Post
One time I was able to replace the ball joints on (I think) a 124 by setting the bottom of the joint (still in the arm) on a socket on the big piece of steel and pounding on arm. Joint popped out nicely. Sometimes I just get lucky!
Can't visualize how this could happen as the BJ is pressed in from the bottom side of the arm. Wouldn't you have to pound on the BJ to remove and then pound on the arm to drive in the new BJ?
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Walkenvol View Post
Can't visualize how this could happen as the BJ is pressed in from the bottom side of the arm. Wouldn't you have to pound on the BJ to remove and then pound on the arm to drive in the new BJ?
Agreed. I believe the ball joint is under tension on a 124, and under compression on a 123. Someone please correct me if I am wrong...Rich
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Agreed. I believe the ball joint is under tension on a 124, and under compression on a 123. Someone please correct me if I am wrong...Rich
yes you are correct.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2013, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Agreed. I believe the ball joint is under tension on a 124, and under compression on a 123. Someone please correct me if I am wrong...Rich
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Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
yes you are correct.
There are many excellently designed parts on a Mercedes Benz, but the 124 lower ball joint is NOT one of them IMO.
I can't figure out why there would be any advantage to placing a ball joint under tension. It seems like a recipe for disaster (yes I have seen a few 124 ball joint failure threads).
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