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  #1  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:12 PM
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Valve cleaning.

I'm refreshing this new to me 617 and ran in to a snag while preforming a leak down test...

I did set the valves before this test.

From 80 psi to glow plugs. Cold engine.
#1. 12psi drop 15%, mostly exhaust valve, some piston rings.
#2. 6psi drop 7.5%, mostly exhaust valve, some piston rings.
#3. 5psi drop 6.25%, half at intake valve other half piston rings.
#4. 5psi drop 6.25%, equally at intake, exhaust valves and rings.
#5. 5psi drop 6.25%, some intake valve rest at piston rings.

All the piston rings seemed to leak equally.
There is no blow by between any of the cylinders and none of the injectors were leaking.
Numbers 1&2 are closest to the EGR valve, massive carbon buildup.

I really don't want to take the head off to lap the valves. I heard that BMW has a procedure for walnut blasting...


Last edited by whunter; 01-31-2013 at 10:20 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:21 PM
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Video i made...

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pxe0WQHD-9E
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  #3  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:31 PM
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get the third valve adjust wrench, and rotate the spring collar with slight tension on the valve face. rotating the face can seat the valves and clean up the grit that's likely on them.
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:48 PM
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Thanks I was going to take the rack off for that.
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:53 PM
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I came across this statement but it can't be correct.

Quote:
Leakage is given in wholly arbitrary percentages but these “percentages” do not relate to any actual quantity or real dimension. The meaning of the readings is only relative to other tests done with the same design of tester. Leak-down readings of up to 20% are usually acceptable while greater than that requires a repair. Racing engines would be in the 1-10% range for top performance.
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  #6  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:32 PM
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From 80 psi to glow plugs. Cold engine after closing all the valve leeks

#1. 65psi dry, 73psi wet 13% drop
#2. 74psi dry, 74psi wet 7.5% drop
#3. 74psi dry, 74psi wet 7.5% drop
#4. 76psi dry, 76psi wet 5% drop
#5. 60psi dry, 68psi wet 20% drop

All at the rings now, I did spray **** load of carb cleaner in there to close those valves up.
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  #7  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:46 PM
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I'm not understanding why the engine was removed from the car? Usually the easiest way to clean all the gunk out of an engine, is to replace the injectors, filters, primer and other normal ware items that are over looked. Do a valve adjustment and then start driving the car like you stole it. Usually when you pull the engine, you have a good replacement to put in its place....rebuilding the engine is not a cheap job....so most people get everything up to spec and drive it till its dead.
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
I'm not understanding why the engine was removed from the car? Usually the easiest way to clean all the gunk out of an engine, is to replace the injectors, filters, primer and other normal ware items that are over looked. Do a valve adjustment and then start driving the car like you stole it. Usually when you pull the engine, you have a good replacement to put in its place....rebuilding the engine is not a cheap job....so most people get everything up to spec and drive it till its dead.

Welllll if you ask...
My original 300D sits in my converted form 3.9 V8 Land Rover but last month front of the crank on it broke off. So I went to a local pick and pull and scored this one for $120, now I know what you'll say, but I don't feel like doing this in a year again.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E-d1vDrWgqo
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:21 PM
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Anyho, I'm going to tilt this thing on it's side and fill it up with Kerosine. Day or two should free things up.
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  #10  
Old 01-23-2013, 09:51 PM
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:55 PM
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:58 PM
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2013, 02:10 PM
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617 porn..









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  #14  
Old 01-28-2013, 02:17 PM
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That looks fantastic!
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  #15  
Old 01-28-2013, 02:29 PM
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Purdy! what types of paints/coatings did you use?

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