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  #256  
Old 08-28-2014, 12:25 PM
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Popping some plastic on and looking for the remainder plastic pieces for the seat. So far, no gripes about the dye. Matches nicely and doesn't scratch off.

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The Sleeper Part Deux-front-seat-plastic.jpg  
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  #257  
Old 08-28-2014, 01:13 PM
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Here's some snappies of the rear shelf. The cardboard piece underneath is pretty brittle. Cracked once so you can almost see the ripple in the back carpet area. Overall, it's OK, but when the real paint job comes, it will need to come out since there is a rust hole at the bottom of rear window in the middle.
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The Sleeper Part Deux-back-seat-1.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-back-seat-2.jpg  
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  #258  
Old 08-28-2014, 01:35 PM
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A white car with a red interior, that man has only one thing on his mind!!
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  #259  
Old 08-28-2014, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
A white car with a red interior, that man has only one thing on his mind!!
LOL .... it's Pastel Beige, Color Code H-684 ... get it right. I don't think I have ever seen a whitel MB W123.
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  #260  
Old 08-28-2014, 04:52 PM
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I am not a fan of red interiors, but I have to say that it is looking good enough to change me into a fan of red interiors!
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  #261  
Old 08-28-2014, 06:33 PM
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That interior is absolutely sick. I want one.
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  #262  
Old 08-28-2014, 06:43 PM
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I can say that interior is different. Never seen anything like it.
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  #263  
Old 08-28-2014, 08:24 PM
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That red is a MB interior color with the correct pebble grain. It was not offered for a W123, but if someone wanted it, they could get it. It was a few years before the W123. I knew that I did not want the Navy Blue or the Palamino. I orginally wanted the avocado, but the wife shot me down on that one. She actually picked the red. I need to dye the rear door cards and sills, and put down the carpet over the driveshaft hump to get the total effect. Right now, still got too much palamino for the final verdict. I think getting rid of the wood and going with carbon fiber will make the CF really pop against the red. Plus, installing red seat belts has turned into a greater challange than I initally thought. Assuming my back heals, et cet., this is my fall project -- complete the interior !
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  #264  
Old 08-28-2014, 08:43 PM
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What is the outside color going to be?
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #265  
Old 08-28-2014, 10:14 PM
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I think I'm going to keep the original color: Pastel Beige H-684
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  #266  
Old 09-14-2014, 12:49 PM
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R&D Injectors and Injectors in General

I was finally able to tinker with my car after around two months of general inactivity. Then, I realized that most of my diesel discusion threads are horrible. They have the "before" state, and then something around the middle, and then the "end" state. So, here's my efforts to mimic Army, now called Stretch and a few other folks who photo-document their projects.

Injectors. I rebuild a bunch of injectors for folks and I seem to answer the same questions over and over. So, I hope the below helps.

First: Here's my disclairmer. Do not try anything I do. This is for entertainment only. I am not a mechanic by trade. Follow all safety rules and common sense.

Second: make sure you have a nice spot to do your repairs. I am blessed with a garage which I can actually drive my car into. Bad weather makes for a bad project or at least a lot of unneccessary misery.

Third: Make sure you have all your parts. Nothing more miserable than starting a project, and you're missing parts. For this operation, you'll need 5 injectors, 5 new heat shields, and return line.

Fourth: Tools. What I do is probably overkill, but it makes the job go a lot faster and easier.
Attached Thumbnails
The Sleeper Part Deux-1-parts-1.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-2-parts2.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-tools.jpg  

Last edited by greazzer; 09-14-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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  #267  
Old 09-14-2014, 01:00 PM
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Time: I realized what a PITA it is taking pictures while working. Deciding if this picture captures what is "important" or representative. Stopping and starting. Still, it took about an hour. So, for first timers, I would suspect you should be done in less than two hours.

The first picture is where you will be in the engine bay. Folks call me and ask where are the injectors? Right here, on the driver's side of the engine. As for project difficulty, I would say 1 on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being super miserable and time consuming. And yes, for folks who have never picked up a hand tool, you can easily do this job yourself.

The second picture shows the removal of the braided line. I like to remove and install injectors in an assembly line fashion. You can pull the line off or you can snip it above the steel injector nipple. Make sure you do not snip the nipple. Not sure one could snip the nipple off, but you could mare it or damage it. If you snip at least 1/4" or more away from the injector, you will be fine. Remove all of the braided return line, either by pulling it off or by snipping it off and removing it from the injector later.

The third picture shows the removal of the steel lines. I like the funky socket by Snap On. It's 17mm and sort of resembles an O2 socket. Again, think Henry Ford. I remove the 17mm at the #1 and work my way to the back of the engine. As for the IP nuts on the steel lines, I remove the one closests to the fire wall first, then I slide the nut up to make room for #4, and so forth. Once you crack the nut, you should be able to spin the nut freely by your fingers to remove. Because of my confingeration, I have to remove #5 seperately, however, many cars permit the entire steel lines comes out in one piece.
Attached Thumbnails
The Sleeper Part Deux-3-work-area-clean-up.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-4-braided-line-removal.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-5-steel-line-removal-2.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-6-steel-line-removal.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-7-linkage-issues.jpg  


Last edited by greazzer; 09-14-2014 at 01:39 PM.
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  #268  
Old 09-14-2014, 01:09 PM
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Here is picture of the "octopus" or all the steel lines (less #5) remaining together. This makes the job a lot easier, especially when it comes time to reassemble. I like using the 17mm funky socket to remove the steel lines. You do not need to have this tool, but I like it.

The next picture is where you should be in this operation. See, the injectors are now in the wide open, ready to be removed. So far, all you have done is removed the braided return lines and the steel lines from the IP to the injectors.

The next part involves removing the injectors. I use a 1 1/16" deepwell socket. I have both, 6 pt and 12 pt. It doesn't really matter. You could use a 27mm (?? I think) socket, but I like the tiny extra amount of room. I use an extension and a 36" breaker bar since I am getting old and weak. Slightly break the injector loose and it should turn by hand right out.

I break all of them loose, then I remove them, 1 by 1. Again, I like to work as much as an Henry Ford assembly line fashion will permit.

Then, remove the heatshields. I use this gadget. It has a magnet on the end. Not sure where I picked this up. The heatshields pop right out. If yours are difficult, get a screwdriver (a fatty) and insert and once you get the HS to rotate in its hole, it should pop right out.
Attached Thumbnails
The Sleeper Part Deux-8-octopus.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-9-steel-lines-removed.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-10-removing-injectors.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-11-removing-heatshields.jpg  
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  #269  
Old 09-14-2014, 01:19 PM
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Now, you are done all the "removing" part of this operation. So far, you have done very little. You,

1. Removed the braided return line;
2. Removed the steel lines;
3. Removed the injectors; and
4. Removed the heat shields (old ones).

You're about half way done, and all you need to do is reverse the process

1. Install the heat shields. Remember, the groves should be seen upon installation. When I was in the military, I had some great instructors. They always had what appeared to be these silly memory tricks. However, those memory aids always came in handy when you needed them most. So, if it's grovey or you're in the grove when you look into the injector hole, then you installed the HS correctly. Again, I like to work in an assembly line fashion. Pop in all of your HSs at once, 1 by 1.

2. Reinstall the injectors (rebuilt ones / serviced ones). I like to twist them in by hand until tight. I try to do this with every single car project since it avoids cross threading. You should get a number of turns before they are "tight". I doubt one could cross thead an injector, but I try to use the same process just in case.

3. Torque them. No more than 59 foot pounds. I set my torque wrench at 57 since by the time I hear the tone alarm and slight vibration, I am at 58-59. You do not need to own a torque wrench. You can rent one for free at Autozone, et cet., It will be a click type of torque wrench, but that is all you need. Since I tinker a lot on cars, and some torque specs are pretty low, e.g., 10 ft pounds, I like the Snap On. Again, pop one in after another. Then, torque them one after another.

The last picture is where you should be in this operation. You're almost done now, since all that is left is the braided lines and then the steel lines.
Attached Thumbnails
The Sleeper Part Deux-12-heat-shields-installed.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-12-heatshield.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-13-finger-tight-injectors.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-14-torque.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-15-all-lines-removed.jpg  

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  #270  
Old 09-14-2014, 01:26 PM
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In the beginning of this discussion, I mentioned removing the braided lines. I like to nibble it off from the sides with a pair of plyers. Very easy and it seems to be the safest way to remove braided line without the risk of breaking something.

Since you have your injectors installed at this point, I like to install the braided line first. I sort of eyeball it and cut each piece. 1 meter is enough for the job. Again, I start from the front of the engine and work your way back. Very easy process.

Then, it's time to install the steel lines. I like to do the process like I removed them. Make sure you seat the coned end into the injector and the same for the IP. As for the stubby at #5. That is nothing more than a barbed piece of metal and 1" or more of return line. You can rebuild your own in seconds. You do not need a new one. Everything associated with injectors is simple
Attached Thumbnails
The Sleeper Part Deux-16-nibbling-off-return-line.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-17-installation-return-lines.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-18-barbed-end-5-stubby.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-19-retrun-line-done.jpg   The Sleeper Part Deux-20-seating-steeling-line-injector-nipple.jpg  



Last edited by greazzer; 09-14-2014 at 01:44 PM.
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