Now, you have your braided lines done and your steel lines done. I set the torque for the steel lines at 25 newton meters or around 18 Ft. Pounds.

You're just about done. Install any miscellaneous stuff you removed. For me, it was a tiny "clamp" which was part of steel injector lines.

Now, see the whitish colored round knob? That's your pump. Twist counterclockwise until you feel it's disengaged. The whitish knob is your pump handle. Pump up and down around 30-40 times. Crank your engine around 10-15 seconds. Re-do. I generally have to do this 3 times and my car fires right up. Your car may be more stubborn. I do not crank longer than 15 seconds no matter what. In the worst cases, you can use a micro blast of something flamable at the air intake. I know that will cause debate. This thread is not advocating one way or another. It has always worked and never a problem. It is to be used as a "last resort" type of deal since cranking and cranking your engine is probably a lot worst than a micro blast of something flamable.

I like to perform an inventory when done. 5 old HS and 5 rebuildable injectors and some return line. Everything goes into the trash but the injectors. I like to drive it around for 5 minutes and check for leaks. If you have a leak, it is most likely the braided return line. I would say that's 99% of the time your problem.

This thread is for the OM617.9XX engine. PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK YOUR CAR AND THE FSM SINCE TORQUE SPECS ARE DIFFERENT FOR DIFFERENT ENGINES.

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For the handful of folks who already contacted me, these are R&D nozzles. The bodies are not 300D NA (115 BAR) either. The 7.5 heatshield is likewise particular for the testing of the nozzles.

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Hey Greazzer, this is one good thread for future reference (and maybe immediate for others), I like the plain language, step by step chronicling.

Great addition to this forum.

Makes it all seem so easy, that "even a caveman could do it" ! Yeah, me too !

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Installed Electric Vacuum Pump in the trunk today. Very simple, probably 10 minutes max. This came from W124 or W126 (cannot remember at this point). It has its own foam housing and plastic insert which mounts very nicely in the spare tire area. I need to source some longer and slightly bigger plastic rivets since the original ones from the JY are a little loose in the left hand corner. Other than that, I am ready to tap into the vacuum resevoir and wire this sucker up. The latter being the major challenge for me ... lol

I am hoping that the pump stops when a certain level of vacuum is achieved. If not, I will have to hook up an "On-Off" switch. If it automatically turns on and off, I still plan on wiring a manual shut off switch just in case.

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Is this the vacuum that's found under the rear seat and services only the door locks on the W124's? If so, are you going to keep power brakes drawing vacuum from this pump? I recall you went to manual steering, did you go manual brakes also?

__________________
You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

No & Yes.

This pump was located in the spare tire well (original donor). It could be the "same" pump as you reference since I don't know if other MBs shared this electric pump.

I am going to manual brakes. MB did not offer manual brakes from what I could tell. So, I had a plate machined. Actually, 2 plates machined. one for 6:1 ratio pedal ratio and one for 4:1 pedal ratio (current ratio, which is actually 4.XX). The latter is the simple solution, the first R&D. I can go to 5:1 without any real changes. The 6:1 is a different story.

I believe the pump in question is actually a pressure and vacuum pump that is for the locks only (doors, fuel door, trunk). These are on 124's, 201's and late 126's (probably others as well). The engine vac pump (or manifold on a gasser) supplies the vac for the brakes, climate control, and other vac needs under the hood.

EDIT: If you are planning to use this pump on a 123, you may have to change the vac pods in the locks. The pump only has one hose to each pod providing vac to lock, pressure to unlock. Each lock has a switch directing power to change the pump from pressure to vacuum.

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

My plans were to tap directly into the vacuum resevoir. I was hoping this pump would stop once it reached a certain pressure. I have seen the pump I currently have in a bunch of cars at the JY. I would be happy if the pump drew a vacuum by an on-off switch. Since I am getting rid of vacuum assisted brakes, I dont think I need a lot of vacuum.

It has a limit switch (or some circuitry that monitors the pressure/vacuum) that turns it off when it reaches a certain amount of vac/pressure. If it is only used for the vac portion, it may work okay. Let us know how it goes....Rich

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

Decided to move forward since almost all of the R&D is done for many of the mods. Looking back, a lot of time for very little once you "do it" or get it done. Actually, most of this stuff has turned out to be painfully simple. Hmm...

An easy one today was the WATER INJECTION. Whatever "blue" washer fluid I can score at the JY will go for injection. I need to buy an alchohol gauge (looks like a huge therometer) to make sure that I am getting at least 25% stuff. I am betting the JYs will start charging for this stuff. The water is not really used to boost HP, but more to clean out the chemistry aftermath of burning WVO. A small price to pay for almost free fuel. No flame wars on burning WVO please ...

The first part was making use of the modified 300D NA intake manifold. Cut off all the tangs and other odds and ends, and relocated the Welsh Plug. Sort of looks like the W115 long runner. It still has the 2 mounts on top which works out perfectly for this mod and application. This was my brain child. LOL

Then, installed the .75 gallon per hour mister (nozzle). I am using Devil's Own products again. I am keeping the 200 PSI factory settings.

You can see the 2 flush fastners and then the 4 fastners which hold the pump.

I am thinking of running the water line along the side of the Valve Cover, and sister it with the radiator hose. that should hide it pretty well. My resevoir is the Euro double kind which holds around a gallon and a half. About a weeks worth of water for me.

Ready for my electrical day which is coming. Let's see how little I can melt or zap ... lol

Tomorrow I should be able to wrap up my Cali Air Box Mod. Got the correct silicon elbow in the mail 2 days ago. I am thinking I will wrap that up tomorrow.

Then, next weekend, I plan on getting rid of the mechanical vacuum pump since I got that mod just about done. 3 more major mods, then it's turbo engine install time. All the mock-ups have taken months and months. Real, effective time around 10 hours ... what a waste ... lol

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Mounted, and wires tucked away

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Looks like water injection nozzle will only feed the rear 2 cylinders. Did you consider upstream locations for the nozzle?

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Folks at Devil's Own say it will be just fine for all 5. Let's see.

Folks at Devil's Own also say having more than one is somewhat tricky. I like it simple.

That electric pump is not gonna last very long in that location. Way too hot there.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Temperature Limits: Motor is equipped with thermal protection. For user safety, optimal performance, and maximum motor life, the motor surface temperature should not exceed 150°F (66°C).(See Heat Rise graph)

I guess you know something I don't, or I should say the folks at Devil's Own?

I can drive around a bunch, even on the hottest S.C. days, and I can grap the intake manifold with my bare hand and it's not "hot" or even something where I would feel I needed to pull my hand back in a hurry. Since it's seperated by rubber feet, I have a hard time believing that the ambient air by the intake ever gets above 150F even on the worst of S.C. heat ...

I will contact Devil's Own on Monday and ask them about your concerns. I am guessing they know perhaps better?