The Sleeper Part Deux - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

greazzer · #46 05-02-2013, 07:06 AM

The only way to go :

Product Prices | Sound Deadener Showdown

Don is a GREAT guy, and he actually knows his stuff. Not just sales. He knows the science behind the soundproofing. Plus, he doesn't do the typical "just put on layers" of really high priced product. I am actually very happy that he upgraded his webpage where he lays out the information. There are other links where he did a price comparison and breakdown of the 5 or 6 players in the car sound proofing business. VERY VERY professional and incredibly informative and it shows how much marketing gets involved with this aspect of automotive upgrades.

I am shooting to do the entire car before it gets brutally hot in sunny South Carolina.

t walgamuth · #47 05-02-2013, 09:27 AM

Which product you planning to use?

greazzer · #48 05-02-2013, 10:06 AM

Hey Tom,

Currently, I got the panels. 3-4 per door and 4 behind the back seat. Then, the mass vinyl on the floors and behind the back seat, and if I have time down the road and I feel really fiesty, up under the dash. There is this thin foam stuff which I am going to experiment on the door panels soon. I can say that the aluminum foiled panels which go into the doors really do make a huge difference. You are only supposed to cover 25% of the surface area. The video on the Vendor's site does not do justice to the noise reduction. If you just add one panel (they look like 6"x6" or so) and tap the metal, the noise goes from that annoying typical metal sound to a dead "thud". That has been my experience.

I am thinking overall this is a "major" product, one best done where one just starts on a Friday night and work thru the process until Sunday. Come and go, take your time, piddle ... The only thing that would be outside of Don's web site would be some insulation - sound deadening material on the roof, under the liner. I would use the panels then some Dynamat which is supposed to stick on its own. I am waiting until I install my glass moon roof before I tackle this.

Right now I am in the middle of R&D, and getting products. That is why I am thinking this is a long weekend project. I actually started too many projects and I have a bunch which are half baked ... plus I will be out of commission from next Thursday for about 1-2 weeks because of surgery. However, I fully appreciate summer is coming up and the brutal heat puts a damper on car projects, so I have to get everything done by mid June-ish.

I will post some pictures since Don spent a ton of time with me last year going over every single aspect of this project ... pictures of doors, hoods, trunk, et cet., and explaning how this stuff works.

Overall, for about $300 - $400, to completely sound proof the car and seeing some very tentative results, well worth every single penny.

Walkenvol · #49 05-02-2013, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Hey Tom,

Then, the mass vinyl on the floors

That is a really interesting web site. Not sure how the different MB models are on the floors, but my current 190 has molded panels on the bottom of the carpet that contour to the floor shape. How would one adape the mass vinyl to that?

t walgamuth · #50 05-02-2013, 10:36 AM

I am thinking about my 39 Studebaker which has nothing inside at the moment, so it would be dead simple to apply material in it....after the body work is complete.

greazzer · #51 05-02-2013, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walkenvol

That is a really interesting web site. Not sure how the different MB models are on the floors, but my current 190 has molded panels on the bottom of the carpet that contour to the floor shape. How would one adape the mass vinyl to that?

On my MB, W123 Chassis Platform, there is this plastic looking like stuff which was apparently some sort of rust proofing - sound deadening stuff from the 80's. Every W123 I have ever seen at the JY had this stuff. If you tap it with a rubber mallet, some parts of it will crack and you can pull it out in pieces. Other parts stick like glue still. This stuff is common, and it can be removed easily with dry ice, for example. Others say heat - heat gun. The space gained by removing this stuff is OK for the mass vinyle. I picked up some small pieces of MV to play with. The stuff does not conture perfectly for the indentations, but you can work it. That is why I am thinking some sort of contact cement or adhesive. The big areas such as behind the back seat are pretty flat as compared to the floor area. Overall, I am thinking using the carpet pieces as general templates since my R&D - learning curve will be one side of the car since the driver side mirrors the passenger side. The doors are "easy" now, so is the roof, and back seat area.

daw_two · #52 05-02-2013, 12:44 PM

Greazzer ----

Please post pics since I'm getting ready to pull the dash and entire airbox out of the 1984 300D. I will want to install some sound proofing on the the front wall.

Thanks!!!

Stretch · #53 05-02-2013, 03:52 PM

How thick are these sheets of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) and the CLD tiles? Do you know who makes them?

greazzer · #54 05-02-2013, 04:11 PM

The MLV comes in varying thicknesses. That is something you can get anywhere. The CLD Tiles are unique to Don. I got those CDL tiles from Don, but I am also going to buy everything from him. He's the best ... !

JB3 · #55 05-02-2013, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

The only way to go :

Product Prices | Sound Deadener Showdown

Don is a GREAT guy, and he actually knows his stuff. Not just sales. He knows the science behind the soundproofing. Plus, he doesn't do the typical "just put on layers" of really high priced product. I am actually very happy that he upgraded his webpage where he lays out the information. There are other links where he did a price comparison and breakdown of the 5 or 6 players in the car sound proofing business. VERY VERY professional and incredibly informative and it shows how much marketing gets involved with this aspect of automotive upgrades.

I am shooting to do the entire car before it gets brutally hot in sunny South Carolina.

geez, this looks like an awesome product, and the price is real decent for soundproofing stuff. Take a lot of pics when you install it!

I ordered a roll of stuff made by B-quiet which im now regretting, which I was happyish with, but its awful thin. It made some effect, but the installation process and the thin nature of the material feels like you are burnishing tinfoil onto the floor.

greazzer · #56 05-20-2013, 04:56 PM

I went ahead and decided to keep my Euro rear headrests. I really like them. Not the best picture, especially since the thunderstorms look like they are going to hit pretty soon.

Also, got the Euro rear and front bumpers installed. I temporarily removed the rear mudflaps since I wanted to see if the rust issues could be an easy fix on the rear quarter -- maybe.

As for the brackets which mount on the side for the front Euro bumper, does anyone have a picture / part # ? They have to be something different than the "P" brackets since the holes are way bigger.

Also, toying with the idea of chipping in and buying a quart or two from Daw_Two and the Henna Red. Hmmm

I took some of my down time just to organize and create a list of car projects for this car. Pretty long list ... just need to stay focused to tackle one at a time vs. jumping from one to the other ... which is a bad habit ...LOL RIght now in the middle of the power window to manual window conversion which I want to wrap up before Wednesday, since I am thinking that is the day the car goes to the shop to get new fenders, new hood, and paint job for the front clip and my AMG air chin installed. I think that along with the Sanden A/C will be the turning point for the old girl ...

Phillytwotank · #57 05-20-2013, 06:50 PM

Lookin' Good!

greazzer · #58 06-04-2013, 08:42 PM

Right now, the heat is on ... and not the Miami Heat.

Time to install RollGuy's Sanden A/C upgrade. Many, many thanks to RollGuy. Here are some snappies of the parts.

1. Compressor from Secondaries, with "K" head
2. Brackets and bolts
3. New Belt

I have on order from Fleabay the PF Condensor 16x20 and Freon (R-12)& oil charge.
NAPA carries the dryer.

The only thing I think I am missing are the lines / hoses. Found a local shop in W.Cola. that says it does these.

Shout out if anyone sees anything missing ....

Also, I am thinking from memory that the plug on the MB has 3 wires whereas the Sanden has one?

jay_bob · #59 06-04-2013, 10:05 PM

The 240D harness is just power and ground to the compressor clutch coil. It is a big flat connector meant to mate with the R4's clutch terminals.

The 603 motor, with the serpentine belt, has the compressor tach and the extra wires in the compressor harness.

greazzer · #60 06-08-2013, 09:34 AM

Hopefully, I will have my Be Cool 3" radiator installed today. Just finished the demo and got everything out of the way, ready for ROLLGUY's Sanden upgrade too. Just waiting on my R-12 and set of R-12 gausges.

The radiator set up is just a mock up and it will be removed and modified in a few weeks again. However, looks like I will be able to knock out to upgrades / modifications: the cooling system and A/C system. Just waiting on one more part for the EWP.

As for the new condensor, how in the world is the thinner and somewhat smaller condesnor somehow better?

A few pictures ...

Opinions please