Just picked up a 1985 300d from the original owner. Great car!

I intend on doing a brake job one weekend as the brakes are pulsing like mad. (Warped rotors)


What pads and rotors do everyone recommend?

I see the forum carries a few different brands.

Thanks guys!

Did you have the Old Rotors Turned?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Just bought her today, not sure when brakes were last done

Pads = Akebono (dustless, great performance once bedded-in properly)
Rotors = ATE or Balo (standard solid discs, not vented, slotted or drilled)

If you replace the fronts, might as well repack the bearings. You'll need a good breaker bar for the 10mm Allens holding the rotor to the hub.

If you replace the rears, replacement of the discs is straightforward. No need to repack any bearings unlike the fronts. I just did this job a few weeks ago. Very happy with Akebono pads all around and ATE discs (all new). Dustless, quiet, great braking ability once bedded in properly.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Don`t know if you want to stay with the stock brakes or do the upgrade to the W126 Rotors and Calipers. going with this upgrade you will be going from the solid rotors the w123 uses to the vented Rotor the w126 uses.
The pluss of upgrading is it will cool the Rotors and cause less brake fading.

The first generation W126, 81 - 85, you can still use your 14" wheels.

If you go to the 2nd gen w126 Rotors, then you would need to use 15" or larger wheels. the rotors on 1st gen are 11' and 2nd gen 12".

Upgrading w123 with 1st generation w126 brakes

was searching for a few other up grade threads but couldn`t find any, but came across this post by MBDOC

W123->W126 Brake Upgrades, what fits?

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

The odds are good that your rear rotors are fine.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Sorry I did not read the Post closely.

If there is enough Metal left on the Rotors you could have them turned.

If you want to go new you can istall cheap Rotors and Cheap Pads.

If you are going to use the best Rotors you should get the Better Pads to go with them.

On the Front the Wheel Hubs have to come off to change the Rotors. Look up how to properly set the Wheel Hub End Play/Clearance.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I though I had read (here somewhere) that Mercedes didn't recommend turning the rotors, but replacing them?

BTW: I did the above-quoted 126 1st generation front brake swap on my 1985 300D KaliKar:

• New rotors
• New calipers
• New pads
• New bearings

...and except for the fact that I couldn't return my old 123 calipers for the core charge on the 126 calipers (understandable) I have been pleased.

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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles

The don't recommend against machining rotors, either. As long as rotors are within specifications as far as dimensions and run-out go, it can't reasonably matter how they got there.

Given that rotors aren't super expensive, I'd have them machined if they seem likely to be within the wear limits, or buy new ones if they seem questionable, have deep grooves, or you don't want to leave the car apart long enough to get the machining done. Machining locally costs about 1/2 what new rotors cost, which is a nice savings but not a huge one.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

The problem with that approach is the fact that it's almost a certainty that the very low axial runout requirement necessary to prevent vibration on a fixed caliper system won't be maintained by the typical genius who runs a brake lathe.

Hm, that's a point.

I'm also curious about the W126 brake swap that's been mentioned here. Is there a link to a howto, or at least a description of what's involved?

EDIT: Never mind, there was a link right in the message that mentioned it. Duh.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

Here are a couple of things I'd suggest:
1) Replace all of the flex brake hoses even if they look ok... They deteriorate from the inside out.
2) Rebuild the calipers... After 28 years and a lack of brake fluid flushes, the amount of "glorp" inside will impact the small passages inside the calipers and will cause uneven or no application of the pads to the braking surface. The caliper rebuild kit includes the appropriate new rubber seals and stuff.
3) Replace the brake fluid in the system by bleeding the brakes until you get clear fluid out of the bleeder nipples.

We did all of this and my car stops on a "dime and gives 9 cents change"!

Don't cheap out on this... You're life, your passengers and potentially anyone who may be contacted by the car with bad brakes is on the line!

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Pete Williams, President emeritus - MBCA-International Stars (Eastern Mich.) Now Wi. & Az.
1985 300D Manual 4 speed Green Hen's tooth
1979 MGB triple black Az car nice
1969 back 1/2 of MGB (Az home built trailer)
1991 Volvo 245 Wagon Nice AZ Restored Gold Brick
1983 Jeep CJ7 37,600 Miles Summer use only

There is nothing wrong with the above advice but the hoses and calipers are extremely long lived. I have owned a bunch of old benzes and seldom change hoses, more often rotors though.

If you do decide to change rotors, calipers and hoses, that is an excellent time to upgrade to the vented rotors. I recommend this upgrade to any one running a wagon with an automatic transmission or just a whole lot of city driving with an automatic. The stickshift cars slow well when you let off the gas so are very easy on brakes if you drive conservatively. If changing front rotors, of course is an excellent time to pack wheel bearings and replace the inner seal.

And the labor involved to remove and replace a rotor will keep me from ever having one turned....unless money was very very tight.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

A a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup with a 617 and 5 speed, nice, got any more pics?

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"