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  #151  
Old 05-17-2017, 10:16 AM
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engatwork,
I doubt "everyone" will reply, so I'll repeat my prior post that the compressor doesn't matter since no liquid refrigerant is stored in the compressor (that would be bad). 2.5 cans of any refrigerant is "about right", but better to use a low-side gage. CA has special R-134A cans w/ spring-loaded valve, which you return for a $10 refund, and you can return w/ left-over refrigerant. Perhaps other states too. If you over-fill, the compressor clutch can start slipping, then soon melts. A problem we see on those 115 F days in Sacramento.

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  #152  
Old 05-17-2017, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
engatwork,
I doubt "everyone" will reply, so I'll repeat my prior post that the compressor doesn't matter since no liquid refrigerant is stored in the compressor (that would be bad). 2.5 cans of any refrigerant is "about right", but better to use a low-side gage. CA has special R-134A cans w/ spring-loaded valve, which you return for a $10 refund, and you can return w/ left-over refrigerant. Perhaps other states too. If you over-fill, the compressor clutch can start slipping, then soon melts. A problem we see on those 115 F days in Sacramento.
Be aware that all "cans" are not the same size. I have all the vac and charging done at my local A/C shop, and they usually put in between 21-36 oz of 134a in a system. It mostly depends on the pressures. I rely on the experts for this, and also the machines that make it easier. The proper amount of oil is essential as well.......Rich
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  #153  
Old 05-17-2017, 08:19 PM
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Thanks, I have a machine and charge by weight. I initially put in 2.5# and then removed it, vacuumed and put 2.3# in. Label calls for 2.9# (x .8 = 2.32#). I miscalculated at first is why I would up at 2.5# initially. When I had 2.5# in system I was seeing 40psi low side at idle. I ran out of time after charging to 2.3# and will have to look at it tomorrow to see what I've got. It may well be doing all it can do in the Ga heat with the stock condenser. I could not feel any difference in vent temp between the two but have not run it enough at 2.3# to really tell.

edit - label calls for 2.9#, not 2.8# as originally stated in post.
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Last edited by engatwork; 05-18-2017 at 05:59 AM.
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  #154  
Old 05-17-2017, 09:01 PM
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Be sure that your condenser fan is working properly. If you don't have the fan relay I sell, I suggest you get one or make your own.....Rich
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  #155  
Old 05-17-2017, 09:45 PM
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Fan relay is installed and running fan whenever compressor is on. RG you did a really good job with the relay/wiring and instructions regarding its install.
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  #156  
Old 05-17-2017, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Fan relay is installed and running fan whenever compressor is on. RG you did a really good job with the relay/wiring and instructions regarding its install.
Thanks. I believe that is the best $25 anyone can spend on their A/C system.
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  #157  
Old 08-25-2017, 01:32 PM
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I purchased one of the generation II kits a few years ago for my daily driver 1980 W116 300SD. The bracket has held up well so far with the compressor attached to it. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to finish the system.

I must not have had the long adjustment bolt secured because at some point it completely untwisted and fell off. That was easy to replace because Rich was helpful with providing the specs for a replacement.

1/4" spacers were needed to correct the belt alignment, but it solved the problem. I found some nice chrome-plated ones at The Home Depot to match the polished compressor.

Regarding belts; I read that people here are using 15370 belts for turbo models, which I assume would be Dayco's/Duralast's part number. That translates to 11mm/.44" wide X 940mm/37" long. I tried that belt size, and it was not even close to long enough to fit over the pulleys, even with the compressor adjusted in fully.

Also, 11mm seems much too thin for both the crank and the compressor pulley. The factory width is 12.5mm/13mm. I bought a Duralast 17380 (13mm/.53" X 980/38.5") belt from AutoZone. I was barely able to force it over the pulleys and the belt was taut after only 1/4 of the travel.

So then I ordered a Contitech 13X1000 belt. It ended up being too long and was taut after about 3/4 of the travel.

Finally, I found the correct belt size for my car was 13X990. I used an AutoZone Duralast 17390 (13mm/.53" X 990/39"). It fit over the pulleys just fine and was taut just before 1/2 of travel. With the belt fully stretched, it will be taut at 1/2 of travel.

I am wondering if maybe the W116 300SD OM617 engines have a larger crank pulley than the W123 and W126? Or maybe my compressor (which is a genuine Sanden) has a larger than normal pulley?

For what it's worth, Contitech belts are now made in China. I think Goodyear Gatorbacks/Contitech Elites are made in Mexico. If you order genuine Mercedes belts they are still made in Germany by Contitech. However, there are no 13X990 genuine Mercedes belts that I am aware of. Audi/Volkswagen uses a 13X990 (or 13X992 depending on their mood), but when I tried ordering a genuine Audi/Volkswagen belt, I found they are no longer available.

So, I ended up buying a 13X990 Duralast belt from AutoZone because at this time they are made in the USA by Dayco in Ohio and seem to be very good quality--and at a low price.

I'm very happy that we have someone who took the time to come up with a mounting bracket for a Sanden compressor.
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  #158  
Old 08-25-2017, 03:34 PM
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I now provide a 15375 belt, which seems to be the perfect length for the turbo engines. It is supposed to be 1/2" wide, and 37 1/2" long. Keep in mind that there are two different size pulleys available on the Sanden compressors. You might have the smaller one. I admit that the belt I supply with the kit are not the best. They require tightening several times before stretching is complete. The Gen III kit will have some improvements, one of which will be a quality belt (Dayco, Goodyear).
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  #159  
Old 08-28-2017, 07:40 PM
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any info links about the differences with other models like the 505 and the sanden sd7 --besides this being a serpentine,


the 508 is said to soak up 7hp and that's definitely who peeps here like it


Chrome Mini AC Compressor - Sanden SD-7 Style - Serpentine Pulley 6 GROOVE | eBay


im buying all the serpentine system to go on a ls engine, it takes a few days of homework to find the cheapest route, when you decide which of the three-witch is dictated by the harmonic balancer on the crank -the distance the three systems are spaced out from the front of the engine.


my choice is the


2005 C6 Corvette A/C Belt Tensioner With Mounting Bracket | eBay




09-14 Cadillac CTS-V CTSV 2nd Gen Alternator Bracket W/ Pulley OEM 56247 | eBay
c5/ c6 vette/ cts-v parts.


the other two setups are the
98-02 Camaro -&- 2004-7 gto stuff, and 07-9 Pontiac G8



99 up----truck & 2010-15 Camaro stuff

Last edited by panZZer; 08-30-2017 at 08:31 PM.
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  #160  
Old 08-28-2017, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
whats the difference with the sanden sd7 --besides this being a serpentine,


the 508 is said to soak up 7hp and that's definitely who peeps here like it


Chrome Mini AC Compressor - Sanden SD-7 Style - Serpentine Pulley 6 GROOVE | eBay
SD508 is 5 cyl, SD7H15 is 7 cyl. Both are available with a serp or double groove pulley. The above compressor is a Chinese "clone" (thus the word "style"), and not a genuine Sanden. You may get a good one about half the time. I have one customer that is still running the clone I installed on the car years ago. Then again, several others only lasted a season. I stopped selling compressors, so my customers have to provide them when I do a system.

4272 Compressor
or
https://www.acparts.com/product/new-original-sanden-compressor-4272/
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  #161  
Old 08-28-2017, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
any info links about the differences with other models like the 505 and the sanden sd7 --besides this being a serpentine,


the 508 is said to soak up 7hp and that's definitely who peeps here like it


Chrome Mini AC Compressor - Sanden SD-7 Style - Serpentine Pulley 6 GROOVE | eBay


im buying all the serpentine system to go on a ls engine, it takes a few days of homework to find the cheapest route, my choice is the


2005 C6 Corvette A/C Belt Tensioner With Mounting Bracket | eBay




09-14 Cadillac CTS-V CTSV 2nd Gen Alternator Bracket W/ Pulley OEM 56247 | eBay
vette/ cts-v parts. the other two setups are the
98-02 Camaro -&- 2004-7 gto stuff
98----truck & 2010-15 Camaro stuff




Yes I automatically assumed the purtied up one came out of a far east shipping container box


this is similar to what im working on -the space is very limited down on the right side, and every component is being chose for--> The best parts I can get, as well as -lightness, all brackets, L33 aluminum 5.3 . tremec 5'er
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1155567-1937-ford-ls2-install.html

Last edited by panZZer; 08-28-2017 at 08:25 PM.
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  #162  
Old 08-28-2017, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
SD508 is 5 cyl, SD7H15 is 7 cyl. Both are available with a serp or double groove pulley. The above compressor is a Chinese "clone" (thus the word "style"), and not a genuine Sanden. You may get a good one about half the time. I have one customer that is still running the clone I installed on the car years ago. Then again, several others only lasted a season. I stopped selling compressors, so my customers have to provide them when I do a system.

4272 Compressor
or
https://www.acparts.com/product/new-original-sanden-compressor-4272/


so I guess what im inquiring about-- the smaller 505 or 507 what would be powerful enough to cool a 30's hotrod?
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  #163  
Old 08-28-2017, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
so I guess what im inquiring about-- the smaller 505 or 507 what would be powerful enough to cool a 30's hotrod?
I think the physically smaller compressor (505-507?) may be right on the edge, but may be the only way to make it work with limited space. I believe the smaller size compressors were used in a Honda, so imagine the cabin that size for figuring out if it is up to the task. I do know that air flow across the condenser is the bottleneck in a system, so I suggest you go with the largest area P F condenser you can fit, as well as the largest diameter (or better yet dual with shroud) fan you can get. BTW, years ago I accidentally bought two of these compressors, so one or both are for sale. It would take more fabrication than I am willing to do to make them work for the Sanden retrofit kit.......Rich
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  #164  
Old 08-28-2017, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I think the physically smaller compressor (505-507?) may be right on the edge, but may be the only way to make it work with limited space. I believe the smaller size compressors were used in a Honda, so imagine the cabin that size for figuring out if it is up to the task. I do know that air flow across the condenser is the bottleneck in a system, so I suggest you go with the largest area P F condenser you can fit, as well as the largest diameter (or better yet dual with shroud) fan you can get. BTW, years ago I accidentally bought two of these compressors, so one or both are for sale. It would take more fabrication than I am willing to do to make them work for the Sanden retrofit kit.......Rich


Thanks Rich.
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  #165  
Old 09-02-2017, 04:26 PM
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some info about variable displacement compressors --they don't cycle on and off.
gm ones are v5 and v7 -- some are clutchless
Variable Displacement Compressor


https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Variable-Displacement-Compressors

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