Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The compressor comes with 6 oz of oil for 134a, and the system should get a total of 8oz. I would suggest to add 2oz of oil/dye to the system before or during the charge process (recovery/charge machines have the capability to add oil in the charge process).

Originally Posted by eatont9999

Should this apply as well to an R12 system with mineral oil? I drained the compressor, flushed with mineral oil, drained it and added 6oz of mineral oil back in.

Any suggestion for how many pounds to charge the system with R12? I have your Sanden kit for the W126 and the only difference is that I am using a condenser from an 84-85 model as it has more tubes but of a smaller diameter.

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The compressor comes with 6 oz of oil for 134a, and the system should get a total of 8oz. I would suggest to add 2oz of oil/dye to the system before or during the charge process (recovery/charge machines have the capability to add oil in the charge process).

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

eatont9999, Thanks for the photos, and I will offer a couple of observations. 1) Check and make sure there are enough threads in the lock nut on the long bolt. If you use the flat washer and the lock washer, there might not be enough thread for the lock nut to do it's job. 2) The oil cooler lines are supposed to go on top of the bracket, not on the bottom. It appears that they are bent downward. If you are ok with them like that, then no harm done. 3) The rear compressor bolt needs to be put in the hole in the tab before installing the plate on the engine. I am sure you found out that you needed to remove the lower left plate mounting bolt in order to get the comp bolt in. It also may be easier to mount the comp on the plate, and install the compressor and plate as a unit. I have done it both ways, and it seems to be easier with the comp and plate together. 4) The third hole (closest to the crank) in the brace is there for the end of the factory screw to go into. It appears that your brace is sticking up a bit right above the pan. It is best to line all three screws in their holes before tightening any of the nuts. Also, leave the larger bolt loose in the plate, and tighten it last. There is no nut or new screw for the third hole, as it will hit and bend or break the tach pin....Rich

Originally Posted by eatont9999

I'm confused on the last part of your statement. The bracket had writing on it saying not to use the 3rd hole. My factory bolt does not extend past flush with the upper oil pan housing. Could you please elaborate on the correct attachment of the 3rd bolt hole?

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have had some bolts that stick up a couple threads above the aluminum, so the hole needs to be there in the brace. It just looks like yours (in the photo) is sticking up from the pan where the last bolt is, and bending the brace up. However, I could just be seeing things that are not there.

Originally Posted by swampy240

I want to voice my appreciation and recommendation for Roll Guy's compressor and kit. Excellent service and quick shipping. My mechanic got it all installed and it works great. I know nuthing about mechanics and sure appreciate Rich's patience with me. I got the whole she-bang from him to retrofit my 82 240D. We can now enjoy the vehicle this summer for the first time in many moons!

Count me as endorsing this forum member and his products.

Thanks Rich!

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

eatont9999, Thanks for the photos, and I will offer a couple of observations. 1) Check and make sure there are enough threads in the lock nut on the long bolt. If you use the flat washer and the lock washer, there might not be enough thread for the lock nut to do it's job. 2) The oil cooler lines are supposed to go on top of the bracket, not on the bottom. It appears that they are bent downward. If you are ok with them like that, then no harm done. 3) The rear compressor bolt needs to be put in the hole in the tab before installing the plate on the engine. I am sure you found out that you needed to remove the lower left plate mounting bolt in order to get the comp bolt in. It also may be easier to mount the comp on the plate, and install the compressor and plate as a unit. I have done it both ways, and it seems to be easier with the comp and plate together. 4) The third hole (closest to the crank) in the brace is there for the end of the factory screw to go into. It appears that your brace is sticking up a bit right above the pan. It is best to line all three screws in their holes before tightening any of the nuts. Also, leave the larger bolt loose in the plate, and tighten it last. There is no nut or new screw for the third hole, as it will hit and bend or break the tach pin....Rich

Originally Posted by eatont9999

I have a definite answer for you on the lock nut. last week, I noticed that the belt for the compressor was squealing more than I have ever heard before. I had to shut off the A/C and pull over to inspect it. I noticed the nut was missing and the bolt had backed out. Upon further inspection, I noticed the last inch of the bolt was missing as well. I'm going to say that I bet it is still in the nut...

I went to the local depot and picked up a 1/2" x 8" #8 bolt and two nuts. I got home, chopped off 1" of the bolt, beveled the end at 45 degrees and hammered it through the bracket's bolt holes. I had to loosen the bracket a little to drive the new bolt through. I applied plenty of locktite and double nutted the bolt. I need to check if the nuts are still on the bolt, though - I have not popped the hood in a week.

Maybe a cause of the broken bolt but the supplemental mounting bracket on the upper oil pan is cracked at the 90 bend. It's not doing anything right now.